How to remove the shell from an Atlas/Kato RS-1?

[VonRyan]

I just bought two Atlas/Kato RS-1s today at $40 each.
Since I'm going to need to put decoders in them as well as convert them to Micro Trains couplers, how the heck do I remove the shells from the darn things? Even with three fine watchmakers screwdrivers, I cannot seem to coax the shell off.

[bbussey]

If I remember correctly ... disconnect the handrails from the cab, remove the cab. There should be tabs there that hold the body to the chassis.

[VonRyan]

You remembered correctly cause that's what I found when I removed the cab just now.
These things are not fun to disassemble. It feels like I'm going to break it at any second.

[bbussey]

Kato-designed engines were always a puzzle to get into. The RS-1 is easier than the original RS-3, which was designed similarly.

You won't break the shell. It will flex enough to get over the tabs.

[Altoona]

Once you get the shell off the frame, file down the tabs a bit, so it easier the next time you off the shell.

Judd Barton

[TimF]

I make it like here:

[TimF]

I make it like here:

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[Ngineer]

Careful with this gravity removal method. You can break the snow plows. Don't asked me how I know.

Regarding the RS-1: I do have a RS-3 from Kato, one without brass fly wheels, and the shell removal is real PITA. I bought it on eBay, but it runs very smooth. The cab has to be wiggled out very carefully. You can put a small piece of paper under the railings where they meet the cab so they don't slide back in while removing the cab.

I haven't installed the Micro-Trains kit because I can't figure out how to mount the couplers without drilling a (visible) hole into the running board. Besides, Micro-Trains put three screws into the kit without explaining which ones to use. Anyone have an idea?

I am going to repaint the shell into Amtrak black (MoW), but can't find decals for an N-scale model.

Javier

[VonRyan]

I make it like here:

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I can tell you with certainty that the method shown in the video won't work on the Atlas/Kato RS-1s.
Way the shell is held on completely negates using that method.

[strummer]

If I'm not mistaken,the "part 2 " videos shows the removal of an RS unit; I'm guessing your RS-1 would be along those lines. Cab removal,then pins inserted into slots and the rest of the shell comes right off.

I guess...

Mark in Oregon

[nkalanaga]

Javier:  There isn't any way to install the pilot kit without drilling a hole, unless you can find a glue that will stick to the plastics.  The secret is to drill and tap the hole, then use a screw short enough that it just reaches the top.  Find the shortest that sticks out above the assembled coupler/pilot. or cut a long one to fit and file the end smooth, then screw it on and touch up the paint.

[peteski]

EDIT:  Um, the loco I was working on was Kato RS-2, so I'm not sure of the info below will work for RS-1. 

I currently have a Kato RS-1 RS-2 apart (servicing a decoder). I took the shell off last week without much thought. From what I remember, I took the fuel tank casting off then pulled on the exposed frame until the shell came off.  UNline the original Kato RS-3s, RS-1 does not require removing the cab first.

As far as the RS-3 coupler adapter goes, like Nick said, I just use a shorter screw. The screw I use protrudes through the walkway,. I then cut it as flush as I can using a pair of cutters, then using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel (using it as a grinder) on slow speed I grind the screw flush with the walkway. Then I touch up the visible surface of the screw end with some paint that is close in color to the walkway.

[central.vermont]

As far as the RS-3 coupler adapter goes, like Nick said, I just use a shorter screw. The screw I use protrudes through the walkway,. I then cut it as flush as I can using a pair of cutters, then using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel (using it as a grinder) on slow speed I grind the screw flush with the walkway. Then I touch up the visible surface of the screw end with some paint that is close in color to the walkway.

Been my technique as well for a long time now. The one thing I do different is to use a Sharpie marker to "paint" the end of the screw. It just blends in.

Jon

[peteski]

EDIT:  Um, the loco I was working on was Kato RS-2, so I'm not sure of the info below will work for RS-1.

As I finished working on the RS-1 RS-2 I took another look at its construction. There is a really easy way to remove the shell.  At both front and end of the frame there is a lip on the bottom, extending outwards.  When assembled, the bottom of the walkway rests against that lip.  To remove the shell just take a small flat-blade jeweler's screwdriver (or a similar type of a tool) and insert it between the lip and the walkway (from the side of the model). Then use it as a pry bar to lift the frame away from the walkway. Once the frame is lifted high enough (on both ends) to dislodge the dimples which hold the frame to the shell, the frame will simply pull free from the shell.

[strummer]

There you go...

Mark in Oregon