Lemon Locomotives

[Kisatchie]

...There is a separate high current banana jack (socket) for the positive lead.

Hmm... tell me more
about these banana
jacks... P.S. - I gave
you a + karma...

[peteski]

Hmm... tell me more
about these banana
jacks... P.S. - I gave
you a + karma...

You're so sweet Ms. Dee!  As silly as that karma thing is, here's one back to you!   

Banana jacks/plugs come in a variety of colors (not just banana yellow). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banana_connector But they (unlike termites) aren't edible.  Still, you could just start a collection of them and display them along with Kiz's N scale car collection.

[LV LOU]

I didn't think you could get amp draw out of those cheap meters. I've tried before with mine and couldn't figure it out...

Chris,check the link Victor posted..:

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html

 Set the knob at 10A,then the probes go to "com" and "10ADC"..You need the run the power THROUGH  the meter,I hook the "COM" probe to the side of the powerpack that would be negative with the direction switch  in the normal direction of travel,"10ADC" out to the negative side of the track...

[wazzou]

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html

Yeah, that's the one I mentioned if you watch their adds, they'll periodically give those away on coupon.

[Chris333]

Chris,check the link Victor posted..:

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html

 Set the knob at 10A,then the probes go to "com" and "10ADC"..You need the run the power THROUGH  the meter,I hook the "COM" probe to the side of the powerpack that would be negative with the direction switch  in the normal direction of travel,"10ADC" out to the negative side of the track...

I'll have to try that later. Many years ago I couldn't get it to work. I got numbers that didn't jive with... anything.  At work we have nice meters that automatically give you milliamps.

[victor miranda]

Yeah, that's the one I mentioned if you watch their adds, they'll periodically give those away on coupon.

I was writing when you posted  and I figured the link would not hurt.

victor

[peteski]

Chris,check the link Victor posted..:

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html

 Set the knob at 10A,then the probes go to "com" and "10ADC"..You need the run the power THROUGH  the meter,I hook the "COM" probe to the side of the powerpack that would be negative with the direction switch  in the normal direction of travel,"10ADC" out to the negative side of the track...

LOL Lou!  In any range you need to run the current through the meter (so it can be measured). Even in the 2mA range.    It is just that the 10A range has a much more robust shunt inside.

[peteski]

I'll have to try that later. Many years ago I couldn't get it to work. I got numbers that didn't jive with... anything.  At work we have nice meters that automatically give you milliamps.

The high current range displayed the current in Amps not milliamps.  It must be one fancy meter if it can auto-range from microamps up to tens of amps.  DO you remember the brand/model of it?

Normally in the consumer grade multimeters the low amp range is fused with a small fuse. The high-amp range is unfused.

[VonRyan]

not intended to divert the attention of the OP and the problem locomotives
but...
do you have any information about the seller? from a receipt, credit card charge, business card?
sounds to me like the Chantilly folks would want to know about such a seller at their event
or, if it was an honest mistake (he being informed incorrectly about the locmotives?) contact seller
for refund/return?
wishing you the best outcome
agreeing with the suggestions already posted...they seem deep and wide in wisdom!

kindest regards
Gary

I didn't get any info, but the guy seemed genuinely nice, so it could just be a mistake/assumption.
I recall him being at Bedford last year, so if I see him there this year I plan on talking to him.

And I might have to take you up on that offer. Especially since I have a bunch of locomotives that clearly need testing.

[Chris333]

The high current range displayed the current in Amps not milliamps.  It must be one fancy meter if it can auto-range from microamps up to tens of amps.  DO you remember the brand/model of it?

Normally in the consumer grade multimeters the low amp range is fused with a small fuse. The high-amp range is unfused.

At work now holding the meter. Says Fluke 87 true rms multimeter.

[LV LOU]

LOL Lou!  In any range you need to run the current through the meter (so it can be measured). Even in the 2mA range.    It is just that the 10A range has a much more robust shunt inside.

Pete,Chris says he can't get it to work,and I'm telling him how to do it,and since others may be reading my post and want to try to do what I did,I assume they very well may know nothing...My brother in law was an electrical engineer.[ He passed away last year,don't even know if I'm allowed to tell you guys the stuff he worked on...] One Xmas Eve,he frantically called me at 1AM..He bought his sons trains,he had seen me running my locomotives back to back,he had taken the locomotives apart,and was trying to rewire them to run together..I said:"David,put them back together,and put them on the track".."When you reverse the locomotive,you reverse the polarity on the motor"...If he could goof up that bad,I assume nothing...

[havingfuntoo]

Cody forget about chasing down the guy who sold you the loco, this experience you are having is how you expand your knowledge. Fiddle with the models, buy some basic equipment and ask questions. You are blessed with a wealth of knowledge on this site, most of which is sound and reliable. Take advantage of it.

Open your mind to the challenge that you have been offered with these models and take a methodical process of elimination to solve the problems that have been presented. Keep written notes, (a diary of what you have done) so if you grow frustrated and put the project off to the side, when you return to it you will know where you are at.

Take the challenge lift your head and look at it with a positive attitude and you will grow.

       

[VonRyan]

Cody,
I'm surprised with your attitude (seems that you don.t really want to troubleshoot your models).  One of the big reasons I really enjoy this hobby is because it encompasses many different hobbies: You need to be a carpenter (to build a layout), electrician (to wire it up), mechanical tinkerer (to fix locomotives and scratch-build lots of cool operating models), a computer wiz (to deal with DCC), etc., etc.  I could go on, but you get the idea. It also involves some artistic abilities and a knack for observing your surroundings or even photos of the way things used  to be (for detailing and weathering the layout and rolling stock).

Anyways, I also recommend that you learn at least some basic electrical troubleshooting skills. You're young and yous should be able to learn at least the basics.  If you're willing that it.    A multimeter is an indispensable tool for any model railroader.  You are not running a research lab - an inexpensive meter is just fine.   You just need it to show you what you can't see with your eyes (flow of current, voltage, and continuity).  Even the cheapest digital meters are more than good enough for what you need.

Here is a $10 multimeter which I own and which is quite handy: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G12847
One feature it is lacking is continuity buzzer (you need to watch the display to see if you have a short or an open in the circuit).
Or, for $17 you can have a meter with audible continuity function: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G12941

Either of these will be excellent choice for out hobby. I own the $10 one (along with couple other meters).  Of course there are literally hundreds of other suitable multimeters which would also fit the bill.

It's not that I don't want to troubleshoot. But it's that nothing seems to go right for me. Here and there things will look up, and I'm so thankful when they do, but more failures and poor luck compound on top.

But just to give an update, I was just handed a multimeter. So needless to say, I'm going to be checking out what is going on with the brass F3s. Only problem is that I'll have no idea what any of the read-outs will mean.

[VonRyan]

Cody forget about chasing down the guy who sold you the loco, this experience you are having is how you expand your knowledge. Fiddle with the models, buy some basic equipment and ask questions. You are blessed with a wealth of knowledge on this site, most of which is sound and reliable. Take advantage of it.

Open your mind to the challenge that you have been offered with these models and take a methodical process of elimination to solve the problems that have been presented. Keep written notes, (a diary of what you have done) so if you grow frustrated and put the project off to the side, when you return to it you will know where you are at.

Take the challenge lift your head and look at it with a positive attitude and you will grow.

     

I'm not necessarily going to chase the guy down, but if I can get a few bucks back for being lied to then all is well.

[peteski]

I'm not necessarily going to chase the guy down, but if I can get a few bucks back for being lied to then all is well.

Since these locos were used (and supposedly modified), is is possible that the seller was simply told by the personhe bought the locos from that they were re-motored, and he simply didn't take them apart to verify that?  While this doesn't make things any better for you, at least it wouldn't make him a lier.