PRR R50B Reefer kits: Second run is coming, but not yet!!!

[muktown128]

Michael,

I got your notification that my order has shipped.   
Thanks for making another run and getting this sent out so quickly!

Scott

[peteski]

Are those Baldwin sharks, Pete?

    No, Hammerhead! 

[muktown128]

These R50b's would look really nice behind a newly tooled K4!

Just saying...

[thbguy]

Hello everyone,

All the orders are at the Post Office and shipped.
I will be posting some more information about the kits shortly (where the decals are, how not to open the box, etc... after I make tea for my wife 

Best regards,
Michael Livingston
Not a GHQ employee, just trying to get Gregg's cool stuff out to the masses...

[chicken45]

  No, Hammerhead! 

Like this?

[thbguy]

Hello all,

Here are some kit tips, thoughts, and details for "mini-run" #2

IMPORTANT:
1) Do NOT use a blade to cut into your shipping box. Parts and decals may be near the edge of the package.
2) Decals are in a folded paper on the outer edge of the package (on the side of the shipping label). 
3) The king pin hole for the trucks may have some metal flash in them, but it is hollow and easily removed with an x-acto blade.
4) If a part or package arrives damaged, take pics and send me a PM or email. Parts are scarce, but we will figure something out so you have what you need.

All kit parts were looked at for casting defects at least twice (e.g., shells checked, then checked again when the floors were test-fitted):
- The floors were "test-fitted" into the the shells. To remove them, I use a jeweler's screwdriver or chisel x-acto blade and life on end.
- To reinsert the floors, slide one end of the floor into the shell near the car jack pads (truck centers). It should pop into place.
- The shells may have some flash along the bottom of the car sides. Again easy to remove and smooth with a blade or file.
- I tried using a micro-trains king pin on my original reefer build, and plan to switch it to a small screw. Better!   

Decals:
- The decals are made on an ALPS printer and require 5 print passes to get the final color. The result is a really good opaque delux color. However, I have to discard almost 40% of them because of registration errors or other problems. I recommend trying the decal even if it has a little magenta edge and see if it is visible on the car. It will probably disappear, especially if it is going to be weathered.

I think that is all.
Please post pics of your work when you finish your models!

Best regards,
Michael Livingston   

[chicken45]

That tip on the decals is VERY helpful.
I used HGM leftovers on mine first two because I was worried about that magenta (looked like copper to me) during the last run.
Glad to see it wont be an issue.

@peteski and I had a conversation the other day about buff being troublesome on ALPS.

[peteski]

Like this?

YEAH!   

[peteski]

@peteski and I had a conversation the other day about buff being troublesome on ALPS.

Yeah!

@thbguy  Michael, what is your 5-pass secret formula for the Alps-printed buff?  I was going to do white over metallic gold, but that is closer to imitation gold than buff.  I'm always willing to learn new techniques (assuming that my printer cooperates).  You know how temperamental Alps printers are! 

[towl1996]

Like this?

Is that the shapeways one, I just ordered that. Looks good, yours?

[JanesCustomTrain]

Is that the shapeways one, I just ordered that. Looks good, yours?

It looks very H0ish !

Jane

[GN Fan]

I ordered the R50B kit on Friday and it arrived on Monday!!  Great!!

Tom

[glakedylan]

my order arrived today, as well.
thanks Michael
everything worked out well
apologies for doubting your plan
it was based on a prior run that sold out so quickly
very much appreciated...
sincerely--

Gary

[muktown128]

Received my order today.  Thanks!

Scott

[mmagliaro]

This looks like a workable system for these relatively low-volume kits (announce, pack, eBay)

Now, about those Northern Pacific radial roof boxcars...