Killashandra - Irish Nn3

[VonRyan]

I forgot to mention that I shot a quick iPhone video last night and uploaded it to YouTube before I turned in for the night.

[davefoxx]

Will these cars eventually get buffers?  Otherwise, what keeps them from crashing into each other when the train slows down or is going downhill?

DFF

[VonRyan]

Will these cars eventually get buffers?  Otherwise, what keeps them from crashing into each other when the train slows down or is going downhill?

DFF

No buffers for my stock, as they weren't in use on Irish NG lines. My stock just crashes about and shakes up both goods and passengers alike.
Actually 3-link couplings weren't used on Irish NG lines either, but the hooks and links look better than using MT couplers and are simpler and cheaper than fiddling around with building a bunch of modified DG Autocouplings.

Some Irish lines used link-and-pin and some used variants of the "chopper" style coupling, which if I wanted either of those I'd have to build them myself, which wouldn't be much fun. I debated having chopper coupling kits etched, but paying someone to do the artwork would be too costly for my budget.

[narrowminded]

I like it!   Those cars fit the scene beautifully. 

[Chris333]

Is the Marklin loco out of gauge or my turnout?  All I ever ran on it were the Toma and Searails loco.

BTW if you need a chassis here is one at half the price of Searails.
http://www.narrow-garage.com/NG-NP.html

[160pennsy]

BTW if you need a chassis here is one at half the price of Searails.
http://www.narrow-garage.com/NG-NP.html

Chris,

I like that the chassis are kits (probably the big difference in price) and have different wheelbase lengths available, but their specs show those N Power chassis as 9mm. Wish they made one for 6.5mm or Nn3

[Chris333]

oops, I didn't notice that 

[VonRyan]

Is the Marklin loco out of gauge or my turnout?  All I ever ran on it were the Toma and Searails loco.

BTW if you need a chassis here is one at half the price of Searails.
http://www.narrow-garage.com/NG-NP.html

Not quite sure. Why do you ask?
I've run my searails chassis around the layout before, but it needs weight. Waiting for a 3D printed body shell of County Donegal JRC No.11 "Phoenix" before I make a weight for it.

[Chris333]

Asked because the loco jumps on the turnout in the video.

[VonRyan]

Asked because the loco jumps on the turnout in the video.

I think it has more to do with the wheelbase or really the speed I was running it at than gauge as you left plenty of space in the guardrails and the points.

[nkalanaga]

Cheap and dirty "link and pin" coupler:  Put the pockets on the cars, with the pin holes.  Instead of links and pins, use a piece of wire bent similar to a staple, and drop the ends into the pin holes.

Someone mentioned that, years ago, in a model magazine.  It was old then, as they were discussing even earlier modeling ideas.

I've always though the "chopper" couplers looked like a model coupler expanded to full size. 

[VonRyan]

Cheap and dirty "link and pin" coupler:  Put the pockets on the cars, with the pin holes.  Instead of links and pins, use a piece of wire bent similar to a staple, and drop the ends into the pin holes.

Someone mentioned that, years ago, in a model magazine.  It was old then, as they were discussing even earlier modeling ideas.

I've always though the "chopper" couplers looked like a model coupler expanded to full size.

I can see me trying to drop little pins through tiny holes in the pockets for the links, especially narrow gauge sized ones.

If I were to change couplings at this point, It'd be to switch to a scale sized chopper coupler. I keep thinking about designing/building one, but I just can't decide if it is worth it or not.

[nkalanaga]

Dropping tiny pins into tiny holes was the reason for the staple idea.  Apparently the original inventor, probably in O scale, was using scale link-and-pin couplers, and wanted something easier.  The horizontal section of the staple can be held with tweezers, and one doesn't have to align both the link and the pin at the same time.

I actually have link-and-pin couplers on some N scale MOW machines.  I have no idea what they are, they came in a box from Green Max, labeled in Japanese.  Unpowered, cast-on wheels, coupler pockets without couplers.  So, I drilled the pin holes, bent some wire loops, and put pins through the holes.  The entire string goes nowhere, does nothing, and is never taken apart.

I would not recommend using scale L&P couplers on an operating N scale railroad!

[Lemosteam]

Split the staple in two- fix the vertical legs to each car respectively, allowing them to swivel and glue tiny rare earth magnets to the ends where the staple was cut.  Instant attachment, a light squeeze on a par of plastic toy scissors from the top or side would separate the magnets and therefore the cars.

[nkalanaga]

That would work, as long as no one turned a car around.  On the other hand, at least some of the roads using the "chopper" couplers only had a hook on one end of each car, so they couldn't be turned either.

Off topic:  NZ railways used the chopper couplers.  Recent pictures in the NZ papers show knuckle couplers on most freight trains.  Does anyone know if they've officially changed, or is it just for certain trains, such as coal and container?