Killashandra - Irish Nn3

[chicken45]

Re: smoking and drinking...that'll cost even more money! You thought trains got expensive!

[ChristianJDavis1]

I don't think a D51 would make it.

And I guess I can spoil what was supposed to be a surprise, that I have been working on scratching together a wooden tram body and sideplates to fit on my 0-6-0 now that I've removed the buffers from the chassis. It's certainly more English than Irish, but it's better than watching a German engine rolling through the Irish countryside.
So I doubt Cole would want me to cut the buffers off his 0-6-0.

That makes more sense. I also do not think a boxcab 2-8-2 would look correct, either. Especially since I like that little engine just like it is (matches my HO one). I was under the impression you just wanted to show everyone that the layout worked. As I stated previously, just being the dead 0-6-0 with you. We will figure something out in regards of what to do with it.

[VonRyan]

So I have been fiddling with the dirt road. I have created what I am calling the "oil and chips" method.
I paint on full-strength white glue, fall some soil over top of the glue, then tamp with the flat of a pair of vintage Swiss watchmakers tweezers. Only problem is that only a rough layer sticks down. And the glue gives some slight discoloration to the fine soil. Trying to figure out how to get all the soil that is applied to stay down and to stay the same color and smooth-ish texture.

I shall try and take some photos of the process and post them this evening.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I've used small pieces of styrofoam to tamp down dirt and give it a nice flat surface.

My preferred technique, though, is to paint on a layer of glue, put on a thicker layer of the dirt, wait for it to dry, and then brush off anything that didn't stick and reclaim it for future use (generally in a separate container to keep the original stuff "virgin").

Sometimes doing that is a bit messy or difficult though, if you don't have a good path to brush the stuff off to, it can be a bit difficult, but a small vacuum will help (but you won't be able to reclaim it).

[Chris333]

You can also drybrush the dirt to get it lightened back up to what color is was before getting wet.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Ooh, that's a good point. I forgot to mention, that you can also just dust on a small bit of the dirt, once it's all glued down. It'll still be loose, but it'll probably stick. At least, that's been my experience with unsanded grout.

[VonRyan]

You can also drybrush the dirt to get it lightened back up to what color is was before getting wet.

Trying to avoid using paint in place of natural colors.

Ooh, that's a good point. I forgot to mention, that you can also just dust on a small bit of the dirt, once it's all glued down. It'll still be loose, but it'll probably stick. At least, that's been my experience with unsanded grout.

With the stuff I'm using (fine ground limestone) if it isn't stuck in the glue, it'll come off. I have a few other things to try, but I suspect that I might just have to live with the results I've been getting.

[Chris333]

It is natural and then you get it wet, the natural color changes. So use paint to bring it back to natural. You know you like it before it's wet. So just study the dry pile and color the rest to match.

My old Nn3 layout:



I wasn't happy at all with the dirt for the same reasons. So I dry brushed it with a few similar colors. The above photos are after dry brushing.

[Sokramiketes]

A paper towel over the end of your shop vac will catch the excess material and allow you to reuse it.

Also, I go back over a glued dirt road with more dry material.  Rub it in like a chalk, and you get the natural color back.  Saves having to match colors with paint.

[VonRyan]

No photos of this yet because I'd rather wait till it's finished.

The first rendition of my wooden tram-engine body for the Märklin 0-6-0 is now in the trash can.
I was too dissatisfied with my scribing and the thickness of the wood I had used.
So I emptied my change bowl and bought some 1/32nd basswood to try scribing it with a fine dental "explorer" and see how that goes. I also picked up an 89¢ strip of .016" brass for the sideplates.

A gent over on nscale.net mailed an 0-6-0 off to me yesterday, so it should be here tomorrow afternoon.
He and I worked out a deal, so the upside is that I can have the layout running at the show this weekend.
And, hopefully I can make a proper video of the layout in operation. Of course, that also means getting my two wagons converted to three-link couplings.

[ChristianJDavis1]

No photos of this yet because I'd rather wait till it's finished.

The first rendition of my wooden tram-engine body for the Märklin 0-6-0 is now in the trash can.
I was too dissatisfied with my scribing and the thickness of the wood I had used.
So I emptied my change bowl and bought some 1/32nd basswood to try scribing it with a fine dental "explorer" and see how that goes. I also picked up an 89¢ strip of .016" brass for the sideplates.

A gent over on nscale.net mailed an 0-6-0 off to me yesterday, so it should be here tomorrow afternoon.
He and I worked out a deal, so the upside is that I can have the layout running at the show this weekend.
And, hopefully I can make a proper video of the layout in operation. Of course, that also means getting my two wagons converted to three-link couplings.

Still bring the dead 0-6-0 for me to look at. If all works out, you could have two engines running.

[160pennsy]

Still bring the dead 0-6-0 for me to look at. If all works out, you could have two engines running.

So what was the verdict? Were you able to revive the dead Marklin 0-6-0?

[VonRyan]

Still working on getting a proper video put together. Didn't have time over the weekend, plus I nixed the idea of making the 3-pole 0-6-0 into a wood bodied tram. Working on fudging another idea together.

Meanwhile, here are some photos I took with my DSLR in some natural sunlight that came through a window during the show:

[Chris333]

Wow, nice pics 

[Dave V]

Needs more hobbits...