Killashandra - Irish Nn3

[VonRyan]

So the engine is getting power. There is power on the brushes. Still no movement. No gear binding, no nothing.

I've disassembled, cleaned, oiled, and assembled the locomotive before taking the readings with my multimeter.

[peteski]

Let ChristianJDavis1 tinker with it over the weekend - maybe you are overlooking something. All 5 armature windings couldn't have burned out and I'm pretty sure that the magnet did not suddenly loose its magnetism.  If you can freely spin the armature then if it is not spinning when you apply power to the loco, the commutator must not be getting power.

This model is one of the simplest and most basic locos - it should be easy to troubleshoot.

[VonRyan]

He can play with the paperweight all he wants. Dollars to donuts it ain't coming back to life.

And I just found out I wasted money on Parkside Dundas tophat bearings which I was told would get my Peco N6.5 wagons to actually roll, well all they do is make the sideframes of the wagons angle outwards rather than be straight up and down like they should. Plus half of the bearings are defective from the machining process and there is a post sticking up in the axle cones so that no axle could operate in them.

With all this aggravation that seems to keep popping up every so often, I feel like I need to take up smoking or drinking or both.

[peteski]

With all this aggravation that seems to keep popping up every so often, I feel like I need to take up smoking or drinking or both.

Neah - just take a timeout.  Do something different for few days.  Plus, if everything in this hobby was always very easy and predictable, where would be the fun in it?  Tinkering and figuring things out is at least half the fun! 

[Chris333]

And I just found out I wasted money on Parkside Dundas tophat bearings which I was told would get my Peco N6.5 wagons to actually roll, well all they do is make the sideframes of the wagons angle outwards rather than be straight up and down like they should. Plus half of the bearings are defective from the machining process and there is a post sticking up in the axle cones so that no axle could operate in them.

Inside the cone? or on the back. It is probably the dimple left over after "parting" it on a lathe, just file the bump off.

As for the loco, I buy them dead so they are cheap. Then I put a working motor in them:

[Dave V]

He can play with the paperweight all he wants. Dollars to donuts it ain't coming back to life.

And I just found out I wasted money on Parkside Dundas tophat bearings which I was told would get my Peco N6.5 wagons to actually roll, well all they do is make the sideframes of the wagons angle outwards rather than be straight up and down like they should. Plus half of the bearings are defective from the machining process and there is a post sticking up in the axle cones so that no axle could operate in them.

With all this aggravation that seems to keep popping up every so often, I feel like I need to take up smoking or drinking or both.

You're not the only model railroader who has has setbacks.  Don't give up so easily.

[160pennsy]

So the engine is getting power. There is power on the brushes. Still no movement. No gear binding, no nothing.

I've disassembled, cleaned, oiled, and assembled the locomotive before taking the readings with my multimeter.

Do your brushes look like those pictured below? Are they worn down? They need to have the tiny brushes still attached to the phosphor bronze strip and making good contact with the motor commutator. If they are too worn down then replacement brushes can be purchased inexpensively.



Did you crank up your throttle over 10 volts? This is one sure way to fry the Marklin 5-pole motors. Use the troubleshooting steps in the link below to help diagnose engine problems.

http://www.zscale.org/articles/revival.html#diagnose

[VonRyan]

Do your brushes look like those pictured below? Are they worn down? They need to have the tiny brushes still attached to the phosphor bronze strip and making good contact with the motor commutator. If they are too worn down then replacement brushes can be purchased inexpensively.



Did you crank up your throttle over 10 volts? This is one sure way to fry the Marklin 5-pole motors. Use the troubleshooting steps in the link below to help diagnose engine problems.

http://www.zscale.org/articles/revival.html#diagnose

The brushes are making good contact and don't appear worn. I don't see any obstructions in the commutator I don't hear any sizzling or see any smoke.
I haven't had any issues with the voltage before, but I rarely turn my little throttle all the way up because the "9v" power supply puts out 13.5v and once it goes through the throttle and to the track it's more like 14.5-15v butt I keep it below 10v when running.

Danville has drained my coffers for the foreseeable future. So I'll be engineless until sometime in 2016.

[VonRyan]

Inside the cone? or on the back. It is probably the dimple left over after "parting" it on a lathe, just file the bump off.

As for the loco, I buy them dead so they are cheap. Then I put a working motor in them.

Yup. Inside the cone. The profile of the bearings and size of the "post" make it impossible for me to drill it out of there.
Plus, even the good ones are no use because they spread the sideframes out like wings when I try to put Märklin wheelsets in.

And if I had the tools and the dexterity to do a remotor like that, I would.
I tried once. The parts have been in a box on a shelf for a few years now 

I was going to take some video of the layout in operation with a DSLR, as well as take it to the 4-H show I'll be at next weekend, but I'll just shelve those plans like most of my projects.

[ChristianJDavis1]

Yup. Inside the cone. The profile of the bearings and size of the "post" make it impossible for me to drill it out of there.
Plus, even the good ones are no use because they spread the sideframes out like wings when I try to put Märklin wheelsets in.

And if I had the tools and the dexterity to do a remotor like that, I would.
I tried once. The parts have been in a box on a shelf for a few years now 

I was going to take some video of the layout in operation with a DSLR, as well as take it to the 4-H show I'll be at next weekend, but I'll just shelve those plans like most of my projects.

Do not do that. Bring it to the 4-H show and let everyone marvel at your layout. Our normal operating group was just marveling at how well it was going. I am sure we would all like to see it in person. Maybe someone at the show has the solution to the bearings.

About the 0-6-0, just let me take a look at it. Remember, I have a great stash of random stuff, so I may be able to find something to do with it that makes it operational. If not, I can always keep an eye out for a suitable motor. You know how I seem to always find the oddest things at shows/online.

For now, though, forget about the 0-6-0; it is only one part of the equation. Work on what you can and only do what is within your means at the time. The only one in a rush to see progress is you, and everyone knows you are your own worst critic. Just take your time and continue with your good work.

[160pennsy]

So the engine is getting power. There is power on the brushes. Still no movement. No gear binding, no nothing.

I've disassembled, cleaned, oiled, and assembled the locomotive before taking the readings with my multimeter.

Cody,

When you say you've "disassembled, cleaned, oiled and assembled" did you perform the assemble like this video shows? While it's not exactly the same engine, the re-assembly steps are close to how your engines goes back together and if followed correctly should ensure you have a working locomotive when done. The section (starts around the 2:00 minute mark) on placing the wheel wipers inside the clear plastic triangular post first, adding the brush wipers touching the motor commutator, making sure all 4 wheel wipers are BEHIND the drivers and finally lining up the drivers and connecting rods must be done as shown in the video. Please confirm you did this....If not then please review the video a few times and try dis-assembly & assembly again. That does not cost you any money!

[VonRyan]

Cody,

When you say you've "disassembled, cleaned, oiled and assembled" did you perform the assemble like this video shows? While it's not exactly the same engine, the re-assembly steps are close to how your engines goes back together and if followed correctly should ensure you have a working locomotive when done. The section (starts around the 2:00 minute mark) on placing the wheel wipers inside the clear plastic triangular post first, adding the brush wipers touching the motor commutator, making sure all 4 wheel wipers are BEHIND the drivers and finally lining up the drivers and connecting rods must be done as shown in the video. Please confirm you did this....If not then please review the video a few times and try dis-assembly & assembly again. That does not cost you any money!

Yup. I made sure everything was in the proper place. The brushes are aituated correctly and they are making contact with the commutator. Still nothing.

[VonRyan]

While I sit here stripping some Romex, I was wondering if there would happen to be anyone out there who would be able to loan me a small Nn3 locomotive (capable of negotiating tight radii) just for this coming weekend? I'd really prefer to have something running on it if I'm going to be taking it's first train-show this weekend.
I can pay you in Railcraft code 70 rail or ME code 40 rail, or I can pay you with an assortment of original Camden & Amboy Models factory-seconds castings (various vehicles and building details).

If not, no big deal. I'll just leave the layout home in its cardboard box.


Cheers

-Cody F.

[ChristianJDavis1]

While I sit here stripping some Romex, I was wondering if there would happen to be anyone out there who would be able to loan me a small Nn3 locomotive (capable of negotiating tight radii) just for this coming weekend? I'd really prefer to have something running on it if I'm going to be taking it's first train-show this weekend.
I can pay you in Railcraft code 70 rail or ME code 40 rail, or I can pay you with an assortment of original Camden & Amboy Models factory-seconds castings (various vehicles and building details).

If not, no big deal. I'll just leave the layout home in its cardboard box.


Cheers

-Cody F.

Do you think a Tenshodo Z scale D51 would work? That is the only thing I have in Z at the moment. If not, bring it anyway. I want to look at it (and I know other people that do as well). Maybe ask Cole to borrow his 0-6-0 for the day.

[VonRyan]

Do you think a Tenshodo Z scale D51 would work? That is the only thing I have in Z at the moment. If not, bring it anyway. I want to look at it (and I know other people that do as well). Maybe ask Cole to borrow his 0-6-0 for the day.

I don't think a D51 would make it.

And I guess I can spoil what was supposed to be a surprise, that I have been working on scratching together a wooden tram body and sideplates to fit on my 0-6-0 now that I've removed the buffers from the chassis. It's certainly more English than Irish, but it's better than watching a German engine rolling through the Irish countryside.
So I doubt Cole would want me to cut the buffers off his 0-6-0.