Loksound in an NS D9-40CW

[primavw]

My latest project was the install of a Loksound micro select decoder into NS 9256. With a lot of help from John Colombo, I managed to get this finished. All in all it went pretty well but it took a few days and a lot of patience. The big issue I had was fitment issues with the shell, but with some extra frame milling, I managed to get everything to fit snugly.

I had finished painting and adding details to this loco about a month ago. Obvious little changes to make it more prototypical: headlight relocation, adding an anti-climber to the rear, and a few other things.


Knowles Fox speaker with a scratch built enclosure which I fit under the fan grill area of the shell.


Frame milled down


Quick video after the install (sorry for shakiness)


For some reason, despite wiring LED's to resistors, one of the ditchlights and the rear headlight did not function. I do plan on revisiting this at a later time, but it will require me to tear apart the ditchlight housings, so for now I'm content to just let it be and enjoy the loco. I am also very impressed with the decoder's motor control. All in all a good project, and it makes me all the more impressed with Colombo's installs in much smaller locos!

[jdcolombo]

Terrific!

I'm so glad you got this to fit finally. 

Did you test the lights after soldering but before putting on the shell?  It could be either a bad solder joint or reversed wires; that's what I would check for first.

We need to develop a database of sound installations so folks don't have to reinvent the wheel if they want to put sound in a specific model.  My era ends with the GP30 and C420 (my next project, but it's going to have to wait a bit).  We need folks to do and document the later geeps and SD's, ALCo's, and GE units, then collect all these in a master Sound Installation thread.

John C. 

[High Hood]

 We need folks to do and document the later geeps and SD's, ALCo's, and GE units, then collect all these in a master Sound Installation thread.

John C.

+1

[primavw]

We need to develop a database of sound installations so folks don't have to reinvent the wheel if they want to put sound in a specific model.  My era ends with the GP30 and C420 (my next project, but it's going to have to wait a bit).  We need folks to do and document the later geeps and SD's, ALCo's, and GE units, then collect all these in a master Sound Installation thread.

John C.

John,

Yeah I was able to successfully test the LED's in question to identify the anode and cathode, and they worked all the way up the soldering them to the decoder. After they were DOA, I cut the joints and tested them... they were shot.

My next project will most likely be an SD70ACE, SD40-2, or SD60, so I'd be willing to submit some of the modern stuff. I think I may be getting hooked on this...  !

[Scottl]

Very nice! 

[peteski]

Yeah I was able to successfully test the LED's in question to identify the anode and cathode, and they worked all the way up the soldering them to the decoder. After they were DOA, I cut the joints and tested them... they were shot.

What resistor values did you use?
Also, is it possible that you wired them backwards?  Most white LEDs have a fairly low reverse voltage rating.  Powering them up in reverse can damage them.

[primavw]

What resistor values did you use?
Also, is it possible that you wired them backwards?  Most white LEDs have a fairly low reverse voltage rating.  Powering them up in reverse can damage them.

I was thinking that. They are radio shack 1/8 resistors with a 1k max and the package didn't designate positive or negative so I'm thinking that would be the next thing to look into. I guess I had a 50/50 shot of getting it right and that's what happened.

[peteski]

I was thinking that. They are radio shack 1/8 resistors with a 1k max and the package didn't designate positive or negative so I'm thinking that would be the next thing to look into. I guess I had a 50/50 shot of getting it right and that's what happened.

Do you mean 1/8 Watt, 1 K ohm resistors?  These would be plenty safe with a 12-16V DCC track voltage and correctly wired LEDs.  But if the LEDs were hooked up backwards, they could have been damaged when the function outputs turned on.

Unlike light bulbs, you should always make sure to wire the LEDs using correct polarity.  All the LEDs have some sort of polarity indicator on them.  If you buy pre-wired SMD LEDs, the polarity is also indicated.

[craigolio1]

As understand it if you use a larger resistor it will reduce the current through the resistor quite a bit and not reduce the light output too much, unlike bulbs. Those white LEDs are too bright at max current, in my opinion. In my last install I used a 10k resistor to power two white smd resistors. There never be enough current to blow them up and they are plenty bright. Perhaps there was a spike when you first turned them on and with a resistor so close to the maximum current limit it was too much?  I'm no engineer, just my thoughts.

Craig

[primavw]

Well I managed to make another video after I programmed #9256

Unfortunately the headlight is acting up now... what a mess 

[primavw]

Well, the other day I was wiring up my turnouts since I noticed some of my more sensitive decoder installs were stalling on the frogs, and when I went to put #9256 on the rails... well.... it just doesn't respond. No sound, no movement, no lights. I pulled the shell and everything still appears to be wired correctly, no shorts, burn marks or any other signs of a problem. I'm hoping this isn't a decoder issue, since it ran fine for a little while. I noticed Loksound has an office in Muncy, Pa which is pretty darn close, so I plan on calling them and seeing if they can offer me any help.

Kind of depressing, I liked this Loco quite a bit. I hope Loksound can walk me through some diagnostics/replace the decoder. We shall see

[peteski]

First thing to do with a dead decoder is to put it on programming track and see if it can be accessed that way (read/write some CV registers).  Another easy test (assuming that the DC mode is enabled) would be to take a 9V battery and touch it to the wheels (to see if the motor will run).

EDIT: as far as causes go, sometimes intermittent shorts and/or power spikes can cause the decoder to "lose its mind". Basically bunch of CV registers get set to random values.  In that case the decoder needs to be reset to factory values and the reprogrammed.  Unfortunately this is one of the undesired side effect of having all that complex digital computer circuitry in the locomotive.