Weekend Update 2/2/14

[TrainCat2]

PRR's, Searchlights and then the D's

[mcjaco]

The BeNscale signals have a good 'signal green' but I think the targets are obviously out of scale, and that bothers me.

We're using them on Modutrak.  Targets are a little big, but not enough to be noticable to me.  LIke if they are, it's maybe scale inches which isn't worth getting worked up about. 

Skibbe can probably say for sure.

[wazzou]

Skibbe can probably say for sure.

I think you mean Sokramiketes.   

[Sokramiketes]

After looking at the BeNscale page, I'm not so sure those targets are wrong or oversized.   Santa Fe system standards books have all the dimensions of the signals and targets you could ever want and are at least 2' 11", but I note there's no dimensions there of the model signals.   Tomar manages to get the wire through the mast though rather than on the side of it, and the wire coming out of the target is done quite neatly, yet secure. 

Frankly, I never realized how horribly oversized the NJI stuff with bulbs is until I got those drawings.  Wow.   They are more like HO size in many ways; maybe the best available at the time but that time is passed.

I've settled on the BeNscale signals for Modutrak in an effort to balance time and appearance.  I'm curious what the oversize comment was regarding... the diameter of the target, the thickness of the target, or the appurtenances on the back of the signal. 

The Showcase/Central Foundry fiber optic signals are about as close to scale as you'd get.  I just prefer to have the LED in the head for appearance, rather than the small point of light on the fiber optic.

Here's some photos to compare to the others in this thread.  The mast is 3/64" brass tube with a .006" wall thickness.  This is slightly oversize, but as small as I'd go when needing several three headed signals with their corresponding magnet wires.  The rear of the BeNscale signal head is a bit bulky, but the styrene channel cemented to the back (presumably as a strain relief) can be popped off to help the appearance.

[delamaize]

I'm sure there is dealer hogging going on, but I disagree that you don't find deals at shows anymore.
At the big show on the "other" coast (Monroe, WA), I scored some Atlas code 55 turnouts for $8,
and found a vast assortment of MT freight cars for $8 or less (and no, not just the weird pink ones or state cars
that nobody wants).   I could have gobbled up plenty of good Atlas or Kato diesel power for $40 - $60 (but don't
need any), and actually passed on Kato Mikados for $75 (complete, new, in the box, WITH the detail
parts) because I'm cheap.   It all depends on what you're
looking for, but I saw plenty of stuff that wasn't junk for good prices.

I can vouch for deals to be had also. I was able to pick up 6 MT log cars for about $50, which isn't too bad really, I picked up another MT NP plug+slider boxcar for $3 and a old MT wood side caboose for $5. And a handful of DZ125 for $10 each. The big bargain was the soundtraxx micro for $10. 

[primavw]

Continued laying track on my layout and ordered Knowles Fox speakers for a decoder install

[jagged ben]

For those wondering, the BenScale targets are about 4 feet wide in scale.  Which is about 33% too much.  It's noticeable when placed next to, say, old Sunrise signals, or on a properly scaled bridge.   It's not too terrible but it's enough to have made me think twice about recommending them for all the club's new signals.

[TrainCat2]

These will help. Here is a sneak at the new etching for the Mast Signals (Searchlight & D's). You see the Angled Ladder set (L) and Straight Ladder set (R).


Searchlight targets complete with rolled crimp ring and the four attachment bolts.

[peteski]

These will help. Here is a sneak at the new etching for the Mast Signals (Searchlight & D's). You see the Angled Ladder set (L) and Straight Ladder set (R).

Searchlight targets complete with rolled crimp ring and the four attachment bolts.

Is that stainless steel or brass?  Why do I ask? I prefer soldering than gluing. Stainless steel is not as easily soldered as brass.

[central.vermont]

Where are the hoods for these? Are they on a separate sheet.

Jon

[Sokramiketes]

Is that stainless steel or brass?  Why do I ask? I prefer soldering than gluing. Stainless steel is not as easily soldered as brass.

And brass is soft.  But stainless doesn't hold paint as well...

The best option for signal parts in my mind is phosphor bronze or nickel silver.  Both have more rigidity, can be soldered, and hold paint well. 

[TrainCat2]

These in the photo are stainless, but I am trying out several types of metals before I settle on a final selection. Brass is very soft as Mike said, whereas stainless is VERY durable at .005" thickness. Using thicker material would destroy all the work to make it more realistic. I do have PhBz and NiAg sheets inbound, but no delivery date yet. Oh and PhBz or NiAg will double the cost of the etchings. Again, nothing is final yet on the metal type, just the design which also bumps the package count from 4 to 6. This is still in-process and not being rushed. This new line of signals is being engineered as a huge step forward overall.

Pete, I do find that stainless IS easy to solder as long as you use the right flux and solder. As with anything, techniques may make the difference here. Personally, I have always dipped my stainless in pool acid for 2 seconds, then diluted pool chlorine with a final water rinse and have never had an issue with paint adhering. Maybe I just have been lucky, but I still use Testors flat enamel when painting signals instead of water based paints.

Jon, the large hole in the target is where the new head casting with integral shade will be placed through. The casting is two parts where the new LED's are enclosed. The first test had the Target as part of the casting, but I was not happy at the level of detail I wanted, so the casting was re-designed to be a separate item (think dwarf applications too) and the target is attached to the head.

[Kisatchie]

...and the target is attached to the head.

Hmm... I attached a
target to Kiz's head too...

[peteski]

Pete, I do find that stainless IS easy to solder as long as you use the right flux and solder. As with anything, techniques may make the difference here. Personally, I have always dipped my stainless in pool acid for 2 seconds, then diluted pool chlorine with a final water rinse and have never had an issue with paint adhering. Maybe I just have been lucky, but I still use Testors flat enamel when painting signals instead of water based paints.

That is exactly what I mean when I said that it is more of a pain. I don't want to fuss with acid dipping and special solder or flux.  With brass, all I have to do (assuming that the photoetched parts are still clean and shiny) is to apply tiny bit of TIX Flux, then use any of my plain ol' solder I have at hand.  Once the parts are all soldered together, the assembly is quite sturdy.   To me personally the increase in sturdiness by using stainless steel is not worth the extra mess during soldering of the stainless steel. The benefit is just not all that great.

There are probably multiple types of brass (like soft and tempered). Some might be softer than other.  The etchings I make are done using the K&S 0.005" brass sheets. Once assembled, my signals were quite sturdy.  That's my experience.  YMMW.

[DKS]

That is exactly what I mean when I said that it is more of a pain. I don't want to fuss with acid dipping and special solder or flux.  With brass, all I have to do (assuming that the photoetched parts are still clean and shiny) is to apply tiny bit of TIX Flux, then use any of my plain ol' solder I have at hand.  Once the parts are all soldered together, the assembly is quite sturdy.   To me personally the increase in sturdiness by using stainless steel is not worth the extra mess during soldering of the stainless steel. The benefit is just not all that great.

I must disagree. I think the benefits of stainless can be considerable with delicately-detailed items like signals, particularly when it comes to things like ladders and railings. Shaping might be difficult from the standpoint that bends take more effort, but at the same time it can be much less "fussy" because arcs will be smoother and fine, straight parts stay straight. As for soldering, I don't do anything differently than I do with brass, since I already use an acid-based flux, and I use the same ordinary solder. When it comes to painting, I always give metal models an acid bath first, regardless of whether it's brass or stainless or whatever else. And the bath is simply a dip in plain old vinegar.