Resin 1940s and 1950s vehicle kits

[Loren Perry]

Thanks for the clarification Loren.

My other question now is what is your technique for painting hubcap/white-wall/tire in the wheel castings.  They look better than wheels on  many factory painted models.

Hi, Pete -

I'm taking full advantage of the wheel castings made by Brian. He's molded slightly raised circles that delineate the sidewalls, steel wheels, and hubcabs, or in some cases, full wheel covers. These raised circles act as dams to limit the paint's spread when it's applied with a pointed brush.

My technique is this: using thinned water based acrylic paints for all colors (except chrome silver), I first paint the entire wheel flat black. Next, if the car has whitewalls, I fill in the outer face of each wheel with flat white paint up to the raised circle marking the limit of the sidewall. If no whitewalls are planned, I proceed to the next step.

When dry, I then apply a matching body color to paint the exposed steel wheel up to the inner edge of the sidewall. If the wheel has full wheel covers, I skip this step.

Finally, I carefully paint chrome silver enamel (the only non-acrylic I use) onto the hub caps or wheel covers.

Some wheels have as many as four colors: black tires, white sidewalls, colored wheels, and chrome silver hub caps.

Others can have as few as two colors: black tires and chrome silver wheel covers.

In short, I paint the wheels starting from the outside and work inward. The acrylic paints I use dry so tightly onto the casting that virtually no buildup is present and the fine detailing survives. The paint has to be thinned down so it flows and fills in spaces on its own once applied.

When (not if) I bungle a job, I just strip it back to bare resin and start over. Practice makes perfect - that's why I did all 26 cars at the same time so I could benefit from that practice.

[peteski]

Hi, Pete -

I'm taking full advantage of the wheel castings made by Brian. He's molded slightly raised circles that delineate the sidewalls, steel wheels, and hubcabs, or in some cases, full wheel covers. These raised circles act as dams to limit the paint's spread when it's applied with a pointed brush.

My technique is this: using thinned water based acrylic paints for all colors (except chrome silver), I first paint the entire wheel flat black. Next, if the car has whitewalls, I fill in the outer face of each wheel with flat white paint up to the raised circle marking the limit of the sidewall. If no whitewalls are planned, I proceed to the next step.

When dry, I then apply a matching body color to paint the exposed steel wheel up to the inner edge of the sidewall. If the wheel has full wheel covers, I skip this step.

Finally, I carefully paint chrome silver enamel (the only non-acrylic I use) onto the hub caps or wheel covers.

Some wheels have as many as four colors: black tires, white sidewalls, colored wheels, and chrome silver hub caps.

Others can have as few as two colors: black tires and chrome silver wheel covers.

In short, I paint the wheels starting from the outside and work inward. The acrylic paints I use dry so tightly onto the casting that virtually no buildup is present and the fine detailing survives. The paint has to be thinned down so it flows and fills in spaces on its own once applied.

When (not if) I bungle a job, I just strip it back to bare resin and start over. Practice makes perfect - that's why I did all 26 cars at the same time so I could benefit from that practice.

Wow Loren, that is pretty darn impressive!  Especially in N scale. I wouldn't have thought that white painted over black would have good coverage, but you prove that it works just fine.   What impresses me even more is that the wheels are part of the frame. You can't just hold the axle between the fingers and spin the wheel as you paint it.

This leads to my next question: what brand of water-based acrylic paints do you use?

[glakedylan]

both the production of these cars, along with the painting as shown in the posts
are incredible
I think they are a fantastic piece of work and am amazed at how detailed and
good the paint is
a difficult and challenging job well done!
kudos

sincerely
Gary

[Loren Perry]

Wow Loren, that is pretty darn impressive!  Especially in N scale. I wouldn't have thought that white painted over black would have good coverage, but you prove that it works just fine.   What impresses me even more is that the wheels are part of the frame. You can't just hold the axle between the fingers and spin the wheel as you paint it.

This leads to my next question: what brand of water-based acrylic paints do you use?

I've been using Model Master and Polly Scale acrylics. They leave virtually no brushmarks and dry tightly to the surface. Occasionally I have to apply two coats, but not often.

[peteski]

I've been using Model Master and Polly Scale acrylics. They leave virtually no brushmarks and dry tightly to the surface. Occasionally I have to apply two coats, but not often.

Thanks Loren!

[Bangorboy]

One more question, Loren:

I've got some of Brian F's resin cars --  '52 Chevy, Studebaker, Merc Wagons... 

You did an amazing job painting them.  What did you use to clean them before painting?  Soap and water?  Bestine?  Something else?

I'm concerned about mold release residue, fingerprints from my handling them to clean up window flash, etc.

Bill B

[Loren Perry]

One more question, Loren:

I've got some of Brian F's resin cars --  '52 Chevy, Studebaker, Merc Wagons... 

You did an amazing job painting them.  What did you use to clean them before painting?  Soap and water?  Bestine?  Something else?

I'm concerned about mold release residue, fingerprints from my handling them to clean up window flash, etc.

Bill B

I felt that the cars were clean enough to my touch so I didn't pre-clean them at all. I just started by spraying the bodies with a thin gloss black enamel in preparation for the Alclad chrome coat. I wasn't too concerned because I wasn't going to do any masking. But washing them in soap and water and allowing them to air-dry would be a good idea if you're not certain of the surface cleanliness.

[Catt]

I do the warm water and dish soap routine om any resin or fud based model then wear latex gloves till the final dries.It's amaziung what natural skin oils can do to a paint job.

[Bangorboy]

Thanks guys.

Think I'll do the dish detergent thing just in case, and not worry about it a lot.  I have a lot of prepainted stuff (CMW Mini Metals, etc.), but these are gonna be fun!

[Rasputen]

I now offer a 1951-53 GM PD4103 bus.  This includes a hollow body with a separate chassis/interior casting, and separate wheels.  There are no decals or window glazing included.  Similar to the other bus, these are difficult for me to cast.  They are $6.00 each.

[Rasputen]

I have eight more 40's/50's vehicles available.  Like the others, these are unpainted resin castings requiring some flash removal.  Most are two pieces, consisting of a hollow body and a separate chassis/interior.  The Studebaker pickup is three pieces, as the rear axle/wheels are a separate piece.  No window glazing is provided.

First, a 1941 Nash 4 door sedan:


Next, a 1941 Oldsmobile 4 door:


Next, a 1946-48 Plymouth 2 door sedan:


...and a 1946-48 Plymouth 4 door sedan:

[Rasputen]

...continued

Also available, a 1946 Chevrolet 2 door sedan:


a 1949 Oldsmobile 4 door:


a 1949-53 Studebaker pickup (introduced in May of 1948):


and finally a 1952 Cadillac 4 door:


The above are all $4.00 each, plus $4.00 postage per order for USA addresses.  Please send me a PM if you wish to order any.  The 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe from the previous run is presently out of production, while I work on a better one.

[Cajonpassfan]

Very cool! SeeM.
Otto K.

[VonRyan]

How about a 1954 Oldsmobile "Rocket 98"?
@ChristianJDavis1  needs an N-scale version of his car.

[Rasputen]

I could make a 1954 Olds, but I would need someone to loan me their Conquest 1/43 scale model for a few months.