Author Topic: Resin 1940s and 1950s vehicle kits  (Read 36726 times)

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Rasputen

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Re: Resin 1940s and 1950s vehicle kits
« Reply #75 on: May 21, 2014, 05:34:30 PM »
+2
Here are some of Loren's finished models - his choice of colors is excellent!






Rasputen

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Re: Resin 1940s and 1950s vehicle kits
« Reply #76 on: May 21, 2014, 05:39:15 PM »
+2
Some more of Loren's fine work:






daniel_leavitt2000

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Re: Resin 1940s and 1950s vehicle kits
« Reply #77 on: May 21, 2014, 05:56:10 PM »
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WOW... all I can say is WOW.

These need to be submitted to the nscalevehicles.org website.
There's a shyness found in reason
Apprehensive influence swallow away
You seem to feel abysmal take it
Then you're careful grace for sure
Kinda like the way you're breathing
Kinda like the way you keep looking away

Chris333

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Re: Resin 1940s and 1950s vehicle kits
« Reply #78 on: May 21, 2014, 07:14:05 PM »
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Loren, Are you available for hire!  Seriously?

Pennsy

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Re: Resin 1940s and 1950s vehicle kits
« Reply #79 on: May 21, 2014, 07:21:04 PM »
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More great work from Rasputen. And perfect for my era  I love the ones by Loren, he sure does nice work. Being unemployed right now I can't order these like I'd like to. Maybe Rasputin will still have some when I get  a job.

Jim

sd45elect2000

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Re: Resin 1940s and 1950s vehicle kits
« Reply #80 on: May 21, 2014, 07:44:43 PM »
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Wow !! striking models !!
great job all !!

Randy

Loren Perry

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Re: Resin 1940s and 1950s vehicle kits
« Reply #81 on: May 22, 2014, 12:13:55 AM »
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Loren,No pictures means it didn't happen. :D Share those little jewels will ya?

Catt -

Believe me, I would dearly love to post a lot of how-to pictures on this site, but I still haven't figured out how to do it. Several members have tried to instruct me on the process but even when I follow their instructions to the letter, something always trips me up. I can send photos via e-mail with no problem, but this system is more complicated. I wish it was more user friendly to non-computer geeks like me. I know how to take good digital photos, but posting them on this site is defeating me.

Loren Perry

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Re: Resin 1940s and 1950s vehicle kits
« Reply #82 on: May 22, 2014, 12:15:59 AM »
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Thank you, Brian!!! You saved my bacon!

Now if I could only do it as easily as it appears for you...:-(


Here are some of Loren's finished models - his choice of colors is excellent!







peteski

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Re: Resin 1940s and 1950s vehicle kits
« Reply #83 on: May 22, 2014, 01:30:48 AM »
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BTW, a tip on finishing these resin cars for other modelers out there: I've found that to get a really good chrome effect on grilles, bumpers, etc., I first airbrush the entire car with Alclad "Chrome" after first spraying the body moldings with a thin undercoat of gloss black paint. Then I carefully hand-paint the rest of the colors using Acrylic paints such as Model Master. It isn't all that hard to paint right up to the chrome parts, even the thin strips down the body sides. And the Alclad doesn't clog or fill in the delicate grille details like regular paint does. The end result is a convincing chrome look that is even better looking than the plated chrome found on CMW and Woodland Scenics cars. As a finishing touch, I spray the completed model with Testors Satin Clear Finish to smooth out the surfaces and tone down the gloss and then add Kristal Klear window glazing. The end result is a virtual match for the best of the CMW offerings, and sometimes even better.

Loren
thanks for revealing your painting technique.  Yours are some outstanding models!

I'm quite familiar with the Alclad chrome (over gloss black) as I use it on my larger model cars (my other hobby).  But your technique has me a bit puzzled. Any non water-based clear (especially satin) when applied over the chrome-like Alclad finish will instantly dull it (make it look like silver paint).

To me that seems like a lot of effort is made to achieve a chrome-like finish on the bumpers (along with having to carefully paint everything else with body colors), just to make the chromed areas "less-chromy" with the satin clear over everything.  Couldn't a similar result (slightly dull chrome) be achieved by simpler means?  Could you just paint the car body with the desired color, apply the clear satin, then just carefully paint the chromed areas with the old-fashioned Testors chrome paint (from the little square bottles).  Wouldn't Testors "chrome" be similar in appearance to the satin-clear-coated Alclad chrome over gloss black?
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Chris333

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Re: Resin 1940s and 1950s vehicle kits
« Reply #84 on: May 22, 2014, 06:18:58 AM »
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I think he is saying it is easier to brush paint everything but the chrome then to brush paint the chrome.

Catt

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Re: Resin 1940s and 1950s vehicle kits
« Reply #85 on: May 22, 2014, 06:49:57 AM »
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Loren, the cars are awesome.Do you have a website for your ships?If you do you can upload pictures there then post from there to places like TRW.
Johnathan (Catt) Edwards
Sole owner of the
Grande Valley Railway
100% Michigan made

GimpLizard

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Re: Resin 1940s and 1950s vehicle kits
« Reply #86 on: May 22, 2014, 07:41:19 AM »
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Loren is an N-scale-car-painting god. I especially like the Buicks and those '52 Chevy's. Suuuuperb.

Loren Perry

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Re: Resin 1940s and 1950s vehicle kits
« Reply #87 on: May 22, 2014, 01:26:48 PM »
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Loren
thanks for revealing your painting technique.  Yours are some outstanding models!

I'm quite familiar with the Alclad chrome (over gloss black) as I use it on my larger model cars (my other hobby).  But your technique has me a bit puzzled. Any non water-based clear (especially satin) when applied over the chrome-like Alclad finish will instantly dull it (make it look like silver paint).

To me that seems like a lot of effort is made to achieve a chrome-like finish on the bumpers (along with having to carefully paint everything else with body colors), just to make the chromed areas "less-chromy" with the satin clear over everything.  Couldn't a similar result (slightly dull chrome) be achieved by simpler means?  Could you just paint the car body with the desired color, apply the clear satin, then just carefully paint the chromed areas with the old-fashioned Testors chrome paint (from the little square bottles).  Wouldn't Testors "chrome" be similar in appearance to the satin-clear-coated Alclad chrome over gloss black?

I've done that. But painting Testors chrome paint (or similar) by brush often obscures some of the more delicate detail in the elaborate grillework. But you can spray on Alclad Chrome with virtually no fear of obscuring anything. On a few of my cars, I've left the entire car shiny with no satin overspray to represent a new, clean car. The two DeSotos seen in the churchyard scene are examples of this. The chrome parts really gleam on them. On other cars, especially in my desert scenes, the Testors aerosol satin finish reduces the chrome reflectivity a little, but it still looks like chrome plating instead of paint, at least to my eyes. I've sprayed satin finish over most of my stock CMW cars to cut down the excessive chrome gleam to a more acceptable level - sort of like scaling paint to simulate viewing from a distance through haze. So to sum up, with some cars, I leave off the satin finish to enhance the chrome parts and shiny paint; on others, I spray it on to weather the cars.

And yes, it's a lot of effort, but I find it relaxing and a nice break from making scenery, wiring lights, and so on.
« Last Edit: May 22, 2014, 01:28:33 PM by Loren Perry »

robert3985

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Re: Resin 1940s and 1950s vehicle kits
« Reply #88 on: May 22, 2014, 03:05:52 PM »
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....On other cars, especially in my desert scenes, the Testors aerosol satin finish reduces the chrome reflectivity a little, but it still looks like chrome plating instead of paint, at least to my eyes. I've sprayed satin finish over most of my stock CMW cars to cut down the excessive chrome gleam to a more acceptable level - sort of like scaling paint to simulate viewing from a distance through haze. So to sum up, with some cars, I leave off the satin finish to enhance the chrome parts and shiny paint; on others, I spray it on to weather the cars.

And yes, it's a lot of effort, but I find it relaxing and a nice break from making scenery, wiring lights, and so on.

Loren, I'm very impressed with your work, as usual!  A serendipitous combination of an excellent product and someone with the talent to do it justice!  I think the photos speak for themselves, and your techniques are sufficient to yield a clearly superior result.

Frankly, from an "effort" aspect, seems to me that your technique is less effort than painting the chrome on afterwards and doesn't obscure nearly as much detail.  In my experience, it's a lot easier to brush paint to a raised surface than the other way around...meaning your technique is the easier of the two...and yields better results.

If a modeler wanted shiny "chrome" and satin painted surfaces, there are several brush-on masking solutions which would be brushed on the bumpers and any other chrome details before applying the satin spray...then peeled off.  But, in a dusty desert, seems to me that the dust settles pretty evenly on both painted and chromed surfaces...like your "dusted" cars.

I'm looking at your photos again, and find your results outstanding.

peteski

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Re: Resin 1940s and 1950s vehicle kits
« Reply #89 on: May 22, 2014, 03:39:47 PM »
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I've done that. But painting Testors chrome paint (or similar) by brush often obscures some of the more delicate detail in the elaborate grillework. But you can spray on Alclad Chrome with virtually no fear of obscuring anything. On a few of my cars, I've left the entire car shiny with no satin overspray to represent a new, clean car. The two DeSotos seen in the churchyard scene are examples of this. The chrome parts really gleam on them. On other cars, especially in my desert scenes, the Testors aerosol satin finish reduces the chrome reflectivity a little, but it still looks like chrome plating instead of paint, at least to my eyes. I've sprayed satin finish over most of my stock CMW cars to cut down the excessive chrome gleam to a more acceptable level - sort of like scaling paint to simulate viewing from a distance through haze. So to sum up, with some cars, I leave off the satin finish to enhance the chrome parts and shiny paint; on others, I spray it on to weather the cars.

And yes, it's a lot of effort, but I find it relaxing and a nice break from making scenery, wiring lights, and so on.

Thanks for the clarification Loren.

My other question now is what is your technique for painting hubcap/white-wall/tire in the wheel castings.  They look better than wheels on  many factory painted models.
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