Converting To Z-Scale Couplers - Is It Worth The Effort?

[peteski]

Nothing says you need to convert en masse. Even real railroads take years to adopt new standards. It took years to move from cast iron wheels to steel; from assembled (e.g. archbar) trucks to one-piece castings; from solid journals to roller bearing; you get the idea. Since N and Z are (more or less) compatible, you can plan out a conversion strategy over time and still work with the mix.

...or just wait for the NZT coupler to become available... 

[amato1969]

...or just wait for the NZT coupler to become available... 

Bingo!  Like Bryan B, I am not looking to convert all my rolling stock, but am planning to use NZT on locos and cabooses.  These are the most visible during operation/photo ops.

  Frank

[Chris1274]

I haven't tried myself, but I think that may work, since the LE/FT coupler does fit in the Exactrail pocket, and the Exactrail pocket comes from the factory with an MT coupler.

In addition to the Exactrail factory pocket, the LE/FT also works in the factory pocket on the Atlas coil car:




They also fit in the factory pocket on the Athearn 2-bay hopper:




Even tho these cast-in factory pockets are oversized, it is a lot easier to just use them than it is to remove & replace them with the brass pocket.


Ed

How's the spring action in the factory pockets? Do the cat whiskers keep the coupler centered?

[ednadolski]

I remember reading an article a while back that someone suggested inserting a piece of rubber band in the spring of the MT couplers to mostly eliminate the slinky effect.  It sure sounds tedious and time consuming but probably worth the effort if it works.  Has anyone tried this to see how effective it is?

I tried something like that, and unfortunately found that anything that eliminated the slinky would also prevent the MT from operating correctly, or even staying coupled.  Same story for the MT Z couplers.

Ed

[Catt]

I remember reading somewhere about this guy the replaces the spring with pieces of foam rubber.It was said to eliminate the slinky effect without compromising how the MTL coupler worked.

[ednadolski]

Do the cat whiskers keep the coupler centered?

Yep!   

I remember reading somewhere about this guy the replaces the spring with pieces of foam rubber.It was said to eliminate the slinky effect without compromising how the MTL coupler worked.

I tried that too, but alas I could not make it work for me.  BTW, messing with that tiny spring in the MT Z is not fun....  by the time all is said and done, I think it's easier just to install the LE/FT in the brass pocket.

EDIT: I strongly suspect that if there were a viable way to eliminate the slinky without significant modifications, then MT probably would have already implemented it.


Ed

[nkalanaga]

Ed: I agree on the "tiny springs" in the 903 couplers.  I've never bought 1023s, as the 1025 is still easy to put together, even after 40 years of doing it, although I do need my glasses now.  When they first came out I tried assembling the 903s.  How hard could it be?  They're just smaller 1025s!  Never could get one to work right.  So I buy the assembled 905s for my narrow gauge.

[6axlepwr]

I have a question about the LE Z scale coupler. I about ready to order a batch of them, but have to ask. I know with MT couplers, you can back a car into another car and they will typically couple together.

When coupling cars together, are the cars heavy enough to allow the coupler to open and close without any assistance?

It was the major problem I had with my scale couplers. Not have to finger couple them most of the time. I have not done any tests with the LE couplers yet. So I wanted to ask how well they open and close on each other without finger assistance?

[GaryHinshaw]

In my experience they usually couple together very easily, but it takes a little bit of force.  The most challenging case is coupling to a lone car, eg. on a siding: it can be necessary to hold the car in place so it doesn't roll away if you're at scale speeds.  But they do stay centred, so it's almost never the case that you have to actually touch the couplers to adjust them laterally.  And they never spontaneously uncouple, like some other couplers do...

[6axlepwr]

Thank you Gary. This information is very useful.

I am going to revive the coupler I was working on and probably use it for my own projects and railroad.

The shop that made the initial mold is going to send it all to me. I am going to change the design slightly. Instead of using a magnetic ball that at times is to light and can get hung up in the upper chamber, I am going to use an actual pin. The pin will be heavier and when I couple the cars together. I will actually see it fall to engage the coupler knuckle. My couplers do not have a centering pin, but again, these are for my own use and they will be like the prototype where you have to manually interact with the coupling process. I will have a thin rod/stick to center the coupler prior to coupling. No handling the couplers or cars. Just using a pick or rod to line up the couplers. All part of interacting with your railroad. You have to be the engineer and brakeman.

I will cast the couplers and knuckles in resin. I will drill a hole through the top of the coupler only large enough for the pin to pass through. Then drill a hole through the bottom of the coupler large enough for the pin ball to pass though. Then assemble the coupler halves. The part of the coupler that the knuckle rotates in will be drill through. The knuckle will have a hole drilled through where it rotates in the coupler body. Send the coupler body, knuckle and pin to my son in law to be cast in metal (dental steel). When I get the parts back, I will install the pin and plug the bottom hole. Put the knuckle in place and install a pivot pin made from brass or SS rod. That is basically the process and I think this design/ approach will work to my satisfaction and be more operationally reliable.

I really like the couplers I designed and want to use them. This way I can make them when I need them and not have to rely on any manufacturer to make the right coupler. Like along the lines what you and Ed did with photo etching freight car coupler pockets,  I will design new coupler pockets for my freight cars and a master to cast for the locomotives. With this, I will have exactly what I want.

[GaryHinshaw]

Glad to hear your project is on again.  Please keep us posted.

[peteski]

Brian,
Sounds like your couplers will make a fine addition to your model fleet. But I'm puzzled by your statements.
First, you ask if the LE couplers will work reliably without manual interaction, because you rather not do any manual interaction.

But when you are told that they are not totally reliable, and sometimes manual interaction is needed, or that cars have to be slammed to couple them, you then change your mind and state that you will be revisiting your own coupler project.  They you go on saying how much manual interaction will be involved in operating your couplers....
 

[6axlepwr]

Peteski,

I do not mind manual interaction with the couplers. I just do not want to have to jam them together to get the knuckles to open on each other. It is the main reason why I did not pursue my design. During testing, I would sometimes have to jam them together to get the ball to drop.  Not good. A little nudge or push is not an issue.

I have to do some more testing, but the process I described above is not proving to fruitful either.

[peteski]

Peteski,

I do not mind manual interaction with the couplers. I just do not want to have to jam tnem together to get the knuckles to open on each other. It is tbe main reason why I did not pursue my design. During testing, I would sometimes have to jam them together to get the ball to drop.  Not good. A little nudge or push is not an issue.

I have to do some more testing, but the process I described above is not proving to fruitful either.

Ah, makes sense now.

[Allegheny]

How many cars can the Z scale couplers handle?

I currently run a coal drag or two at train shows that have 60-75 cars (double headed with steam Y3bs or EM-1s).  I plan to convert my rolling stock to body mount couplers.  If the Z couplers can handle the load, I'd switch to the more prototype look.

Any one using Z couplers on long freight drags?