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How old is that Mikado? The pilot and trailing truck flanges on the Kato Mikado are a little big. They may have been bigger in earlier runs than they are now, but I don't have a "new" one to compare. If they are hitting everywhere, then you will have to spin/file or otherwise turn down those flanges. If they are just hitting on a few stretches, it's the Q/C variability of Atlas Code 55. Even on my current layout, which was built over the past 2 years or so, I had some sections of Atlas c55 flex where even a Kato F unit flange would hit the ties a little. I have to run a jewelers file over the spike heads a few times to knock them down on those sections to get rid of the problem.
Hi MaxMine (the Mike) is a first-run example. I'm seeing this "bumping" on all my engines,except,as I say, the Bachmann 2-8-0. This includes Atlas,(both Chinese and Kato-built) and Kato. Your suggestion about the "jewelers file" sounds like it might be the ticket! I'll give that a shot and see what happens.Mark in Oregon
If you want electrified frogs, you would have to handlay anyway I think.
...why manufacturers don't care of this track configuration?
That's correct for Atlas crossings, but Peco Electrofrog crossing ....
Mark,I'd say that's the right approach if it's only a few certain spots on your layout where you have the problem.If it's everywhere, and you have the problem even with very modern diesel, say, then it must be something else.
I see what you're saying, but I can't imagine what it must be. Is it possible that the track I purchased is somehow "older", and that this issue has since been rectified? I know anything's "possible", but for the life of me I just can't imagine that the c55 I bought is somehow different from all the other stuff out there... Mark in Oregon
Mark,I have heard of this happening with Atlas Code 55, but it's usually been limited to the sectional line of track rather than flextrack. I remember reading a post on the A-board a long time ago where someone took a small screwdriver and ran the blade along the spikes to "knock them down." Obviously, you should try this on a scrap piece first. Otherwise, you'll need to figure out a way to file or sand the engineering plastic down. Good luck.Hope this helps,DFF