Optivisor

[Bsklarski]

Hello gang. 

I just turned 41 and as most of you can relate, my eyes are not like they were when I was 15. I was going to pick up an Optivisor. I was looking at them and figuring out the different focal lengths.  I dont currently wear glasses, but suspect in the next few years I will. I can still work on trains and models. I do wear 2x reading glasses most of the time working on hobby stuff. What seems to be a good focal length for working on the layout, and on the bench? I also build plastic models, IE aircraft, ships, ect. Thanks for any help!

[Kisatchie]

I have an OptiVisor, and also a generic Visor (don't remember the brand)). The OptiVisor has their strongest lens set (plate #10 = 4" focal length), while the generic has an intermediate lens set.

Different fine detail modeling jobs require different focal lengths, at least for me.

OptiVisor makes several accessories, one of which is the OptiLoupe, an attachment that fits over the right (or left) side lens. I didn't find that particularly helpful.

I'm 63 years old, and I've worn glasses for nearsightedness since 5th grade. I don't know how much that influences my visor needs, though.


Hmm... what big eyes Kiz
has when he wears the
OptiVisor...

[PGE_Modeller]

I would suggest trying to get hold of a copy of the handout from a clinic given at the 2004 NMRA National Convention in Seattle by Richard Meetz and Rich Weyand entitled "Eyesight, Aging and the Modeler".  They discussed various types of vision aids for the modeller (I will now change to the Canadian spelling) including, but not limited to, lighting and design considerations for visor-type devices.  The main one I recall was that the visor should not be solid across the top.  The reason given was that a solid top tended to place the modeller's eyes in a shaded area and the reduced ambient light level caused the iris to open up, with the resulting loss of depth of field.  An open top frame holding the lenses did not introduce this problem.  They also discussed focal length of lenses for various tasks and the use of lubricating eye drops to reduce dryness of the eyes.

This was a very informative clinic and, hopefully, has been repeated in an updated version at conventions more recent than PSX 2004.  If I can locate my copy of the handout or the Clinic Book, I will let you know.

Cheers,

[peteski]

I'm glad that you decided on Optivisor, not on one of the lower cost magnifiers.   

My hobbies are similar to yours. I had an Optivisor for many years, but I rarely used it.  I didn't need it. My eyes were good enough for most of my modeling needs.  For extreme close-ups I used (and still use) a dissecting stereo-microscope.

But several years ago my close vision has deteriorated. I used to be able to focus my eyes down to about 9". Nowadays, my closes focus is about 22".  Nowhere close to what I need for modeling.  I pretty much wear the Optivisor  at all times while modeling. And I don't mean "strutting on a runway". 

I have several lens plates (the exchangeable plates is one of Optivisor's great features), but the one I use the most is #7 ( I don't recall what is the magnification spec.)

I do recall that at first, using the Optivisor felt weird, and it took a while to got used to. But now, I can't model without it.

[peteski]

The main one I recall was that the visor should not be solid across the top.  The reason given was that a solid top tended to place the modeller's eyes in a shaded area and the reduced ambient light level caused the iris to open up, with the resulting loss of depth of field.  An open top frame holding the lenses did not introduce this problem.  They also discussed focal length of lenses for various tasks and the use of lubricating eye drops to reduce dryness of the eyes.

That might be someone's opinion, but I disagree. I tried the open magnifiers (which pretty much work like strong reading glasses which are placed couple of inches from your eyes). I found the ambient light very distracting.  Also, the Optivisor is pretty much a standard equipment used by jewelers and watchmakers.  If the non-shaded visors were better, I suspect that those professionals would be wearing them.

[wazzou]

I've often considered some of those optical loupes that Dentists and Hygenists wear. 
They are expensive for the really good quality optics but it may be something I ultimately choose.

[Kisatchie]

I have several lens plates (the exchangeable plates is one of Optivisor's great features), but the one I use the most is #7 ( I don't recall what is the magnification spec.)

Here are the OptiVisor lens specs:

#2 lens is 1.5x magnification, focal length of 20"
#3 lens is 1.75x magnification, focal length of 14"
#4 lens is 2.0x magnification, focal length of 10"
#5 lens is 2.5x magnification, focal length of 8"
#7 lens is 2.75x magnification, focal length of 6"
#10 lens is 3.5x magnification, focal length of 4"


Hmm... while Kiz is listing
technical stuff, I'm gonna
grab me a beer and a
banana...



 

[VonRyan]

I have an OptiVisor, and also a generic Visor (don't remember the brand)). The OptiVisor has their strongest lens set (plate #10 = 4" focal length), while the generic has an intermediate lens set.

Different fine detail modeling jobs require different focal lengths, at least for me.

OptiVisor makes several accessories, one of which is the OptiLoupe, an attachment that fits over the right (or left) side lens. I didn't find that particularly helpful.

I'm 63 years old, and I've worn glasses for nearsightedness since 5th grade. I don't know how much that influences my visor needs, though.


Hmm... what big eyes Kiz
has when he wears the
OptiVisor...

Been wearing mine since 4th grade. It's at the point where I end up looking over or under the glasses to get a better look at my models.

[PGE_Modeller]

That might be someone's opinion, but I disagree. I tried the open magnifiers (which pretty much work like strong reading glasses which are placed couple of inches from your eyes). I found the ambient light very distracting.  Also, the Optivisor is pretty much a standard equipment used by jewelers and watchmakers.  If the non-shaded visors were better, I suspect that those professionals would be wearing them.

I realize there may well be differences of opinion in this regard.  One of the original clinic presenters (Richard Meetz, IIRC) was a practising optometrist and, as a retired para-medical professional, I am much more inclined to accept the recommendations of another para-medical professional over anectodal "evidence".  YMMV.

Greg

[wcfn100]

I use the clip on type for 99.7% of the time I need magnification.



I use my normal optivisor for drilling with #87 bits.



Jason

[eja]

Hum, Kiz, I hear a song coming into my head....

....."I can see clearly now, the rain has ....."

Sorry!


Eja

[Bob Horn]

My close up vision was good till I had cataract surgery. Since then I can not see close up with out glasses, still trying to figure out the best options. Bob.

[peteski]

I realize there may well be differences of opinion in this regard.  One of the original clinic presenters (Richard Meetz, IIRC) was a practising optometrist and, as a retired para-medical professional, I am much more inclined to accept the recommendations of another para-medical professional over anectodal "evidence".  YMMV.

Greg

Are you saying that when "9 out of 10 Optivisor users would recommend one to a friend", that is anecdotal??! 

But seriously,  it is my personal preference, based on my own research (wearing several different magnifiers, and choosing the one that was most comfortable to me).  To me that is not anecdotal at all.  I use very bright lights over my workbench and I have no problems whatsoever with the depth of field.

[rsn48]

I used to be brand specific but not anymore.  For example, I used to believe I really needed a Dremel, then one day I realized that all a Dremel was, was just a smaller drilling tool.  Did I believe that only a Makita drill could do the job, not really.  Can an Estwing hammer be the only hammer, not really.  So I went out and bought two Chinese knock offs of Dremels, paid $25 each for the the drill and the million little add ons; got one for the boat and one for home, so far they are still good to go.

A friend of mine bought the Optivisor knock off for me at Christmas a number of years ago.  I know in one of the magnifications available I need to be about 4 inches away for it to work, I don't like using that setting unless I have too, which does happen but thankfully not that much.

I use a lot of 5 minute epoxy on my layout, especially the nolix I built; I get them for $1.25 at the dollar store and at Home Depot $7; I purchase the container that has those really small tubes of CA glue, four in each container, like them as I don't have to throw away a whole large tube if not used up: again $1.25.  Remember when Timex watches first came out, those in the "know" said you couldn't get a good watch for the going price back then, and of course my early Timex's just kept ticking on and where accurate.

My buddy has a philosophy which I have adopted, he said to me: "Rick if I am going to use a tool a lot, I get a good one, but if its a tool I'm only going to use a couple of times over a 5 year period, I go for the Chinese knock off."  So for example, I only ever need a 1/2 inch drill about once every ten years, so I'm looking for a Chinese knock of here in Vancouver at Summit tools.

Of course I'd like an Optivisor and be with the "in" crowd, but the problem is the unit I have now works fine so I can't see paying more to get something that will replace another something that works.   

[peteski]

My recommendation had nothing to do with the brand name. I have owned my Optivisor for over 20 years. In those years I have tried several other brands of similar magnifiers. The quality of their construction (lens and headband materials) and overall feel (on your head) just wasn't the same. As Greg said, YMMV.