Modutrak Searchlight Signals (WAS: Building BeNscale Signals)

[amato1969]

I am so feeling the same!!!

[superturbine]

Yeah, my graph looks like that today also.. Nice work Mike! 

Thanks for sharing!!

Oh yes, Lookin Good Mike!

BTW.  Snob - ####&       - that is funny!!

[Sokramiketes]

why not mount these on a DIP socket ???

A very worthy idea indeed.  The HO Modutrak guys had their signals mounted this way and it worked really well.  The signal was built, and scenic'd into, one dip socket while a second was mounted on the layout.  The signals plugged into the sockets at each show, and were pulled out for transport.  They were also loose enough that if a signal got bumped it was more likely to fall over than to be damaged.

What I haven't figured out is a good way to securely mount the socket in the layout. 

So what I'm doing is drilling a 5/8" hole through the scenery and plywood base.  Then running a section of brass tube in that hole.  The resin BeNscale base then gets secured to the tube, which is secured to the plywood.  The tube also makes it easy to pass the plug and wiring through 2" of foam base, to then plug directly into the circuit board. 

Seems to work so far, but will be tested as we continue to move modules around. 

[Sokramiketes]

Yeah, I know the feeling..... Nice work Mike! 

Thanks for sharing!!

Oh yes, Lookin Good Mike!

BTW.  Snob - ####&       - that is funny!!

Feelin good, Jason!

I love the new nickname.  Like we don't let anyone else run on the layout and enjoy it with us... and like we don't spend a ton of time at shows talking about how we modeled stuff and what lessons we've learned... oh well.  Some people will still be put off.   

[superturbine]

I love you guys,  not sure how I feel about Harz tho....  I am gonna keep my eye on that guy!!!

[Sokramiketes]

I love you guys,  not sure how I feel about Harz tho....  I am gonna keep my eye on that guy!!!

LOL 

[superchief]

looking great Mike, Thanks for the building thread, what do you use to control them? Gordon

[Sokramiketes]

looking great Mike, Thanks for the building thread, what do you use to control them? Gordon

I need to take some new video (we've adjusted the timing on the bouncing roundel effect) but there is a glimpse of the signal driver board one of our guys developed at the end of the video:

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For detectors to feed the signal drivers, we're using Chubb's DCC optimized detectors.

[peteski]

Looking at the design, and Mike's additions, it is too bad that Ben didn't design the circuit board to house surface mount resistors and solder pads for soldering the hookup wires on the other side of those resistors. That would make it much sturdier.

[C855B]

... surface mount resistors and solder pads for soldering the hookup wires on the other side of those resistors ...

Absolutely. I saw those resistors hanging off that way and thought "vulnerable", and "old school". 

[Scottl]

I agree.  V.2 should incorporate those ideas, although conventional resistors would be easier to install for most.  It might be worth making a board and sharing the design amongst those interested.  These signals are tremendous.

[peteski]

I agree.  V.2 should incorporate those ideas, although conventional resistors would be easier to install for most.  It might be worth making a board and sharing the design amongst those interested.  These signals are tremendous.

I'm curious how thick is the metal used for these photo-etched parts. I'm asking because the etched pieces look a bit heavier and thicker than the ones I etched out of 0.005" brass.





Heavier means more out of scale. I guess that there is a tradeoff between sturdiness and scale fidelity, but I think that the signal I etched was sturdy enough.

[Ian MacMillan]

I'm curious how thick is the metal used for these photo-etched parts. I'm asking because the etched pieces look a bit heavier and thicker than the ones I etched out of 0.005" brass.





Heavier means more out of scale. I guess that there is a tradeoff between sturdiness and scale fidelity, but I think that the signal I etched was sturdy enough.

Like I said a long time ago... I'd like kits of!

[peteski]

Like I said a long time ago... I'd like kits of!

I know Ian, I know.    It is one of those round-tuit things. I designed the artwork in Corel Draw but it was in the days where I printed it out at 400% on a letter-sized paper and had it photoreduced onto a high-contrast black/white film.

I did this project in the early 90s. Nowadays, I would just have to redo the artwork to be sent out to one of the photo etchers (PPD?). Then there is the thing with the LEDs (the ones I used aren't true red/green). They are standard T-1 size bi-color LEDs which have been turned down on a lathe.  The red is a bit orangish and green a bit yellowish. And no hoods.

I know that it is lots of excuses, but I'm just being honest.  I suppose that I could provide the photoeched parts, mast and the base, then you could roll your own lighting for these.  But I'm sure that a full kit would be even better.

BTW, if you see me during the Tour de Chooch (at Rand's layout), I could let you see the signal I built in person. 

[mmagliaro]

Personally, I thought this construction article was terrific.  I like the way you showed how to make the joints
clean with flux and minimal solder, and the resistors hanging down are very simple for most people to
solder in place to make the "leap" from magnet wire to heavier wire.

I am wondering... are those 1/4 watt resistors or 1/8w ?  They look pretty big and there's no need for
1/4w.   1/8 would provide all the benefits of the assembly and might make it easier for everything to
fit.

I can well remember soldering Alkem brass signals together.  It ain't easy until you develop a technique.
The assembly and soldering photos in here will help a lot of modelers.