Another steam thread

[eric220]

Bob, did you mean " < $20 per container " or " ~ $20 per container ", or is it actually greater than $20?

Cody, did you mean >$20? 

[garethashenden]

I've always loved the way some of the 2mmFS stuff folds together and gets soldered.
I'd love to find some etched kits of GWR wagons other than the types than what's being mass produced by GF, Peco, and Dapol, but it seems that a lot of those etched kit makers don't have an online presence.

Now if someone makes a kit for a GWR City class... Well then I might just have to get one and modify it to run on 9mm gauge. 


-Cody F.

Have a look at the 2mm Association's shop. You have to be a member to buy stuff (for tax reasons) but it's worth it if you need the stuff. http://www.2mm.org.uk/products/shops.php?shop_num=2
They do do some n gauge wheels on their axles for people like you.

[garethashenden]

No progress today. Hope to do some tomorrow, if not then definitely Saturday.

[peteski]

The "solder paint" sounds like it is related to solder paste which has been used on the electronic industries for decades.  I used it for reworking surface-mount (SMD) components, back in the 80s, when I worked as an electronic technician.  The paste is silk-screened onto bare printed circuit board, then tiny SMD components are placed on the board. The board is then sent through an oven which melts the paste, soldering the components to the board.  For manual rework, the solder paste comes in syringes with plastic tips and it is installed what looks like miniature caulking gun.  I occasionally still use the paste for certain soldered joints.  The paste is quite expensive (I think I paid $40 for a syringe).  But most industrial supplies are usually expensive.

[garethashenden]

Solder paint and solder paste are, I believe, the same thing. The link I originally posted lists it as solder paste while the jar itself says solder paint. It's about $14 for 50g.

[VonRyan]

Have a look at the 2mm Association's shop. You have to be a member to buy stuff (for tax reasons) but it's worth it if you need the stuff. http://www.2mm.org.uk/products/shops.php?shop_num=2
They do do some n gauge wheels on their axles for people like you.

Wow... The shop sure has expanded since I last took a good look...
Once I get a job, joining the society is on my list of important things.


-Cody F.

[garethashenden]

Wow... The shop sure has expanded since I last took a good look...
Once I get a job, joining the society is on my list of important things.


-Cody F.

There are three parts, Shop 1 is track, Shop 2 is freight wagons, Shop 3 is locomotives and coaches.

[TrainCat2]

Solder Paint and Solder Paste are not the same thing. Solder Paint is a low viscosity liquid. Solder Paste is a . . . . . . . . . . paste. The brass builders in Korea, China, Japan, etc use the paste, but it is a thick product.

The paint is exactly that. I use it to bond direct contact sheets together that can not have any solder build-up. Only the tiniest amount is between the brass sheets. Example:


And this is the Solder Paint:

[robert3985]

Thanks for the tip Bob.  I'll be ordering a jar of it next week!

[garethashenden]

Time for an update. The main things I've done today and last night are mount the motor and quarter the wheels, both of which took way longer than they should have.
The quartering was done in the following manner; Start with the center and last axles. Put the rods on inside out so that the extra part of the rod extends beyond the frames. Then adjust the wheels on the last axle until these four wheels run smoothly. Then repeat this process with the center and front axles, taking care not to adjust the center wheels. This can be seen here:


Once this is done the mechanism should work smoothly with all the wheels connected. The motor is placed roughly in position to get an idea how things will fit.

The motor has now been installed. The motor mount is pretty simple, it's just a strip of brass glued to both the motor and the gearbox. After I took this picture I realized the shell wouldn't fit on top, so the motor mount was moved to the top of the motor/gearbox.

Next up is stripping the paint off the body and attaching the rods permanently. This is the part I'm looking forward to the least. It is done by soldering a small etched ring on to the crank pin while keeping the rod right behind the ring free to move.

[Cajonpassfan]

Thanks for the tip Bob.  I'll be ordering a jar of it next week!

Bob, yer sure a half pound is enough?
Otto

[mmagliaro]

Love the project.   I like the gearbox, and those are nice looking drivers.

[peteski]

Love the project.   I like the gearbox, and those are nice looking drivers.

Too bad (but not throughout the fault of the builder) that the gearbox doesn't have another pair of gears for further speed reduction. Or at least a much smaller spur gear mated to the worm gear along with an idler gear to pass the motion to the gear on the axle.  With such nice fine-scale models they should have considered making this locomotive geared very slow.

[robert3985]

Bob, yer sure a half pound is enough?
Otto

Otto,  I'm 64, so it'll probably be enough! 

[mmagliaro]

garethashenden:
How many teeth are on the large side of that double-gear (the worm gear that mates to the motor worm)?
From the photo, it's hard to tell, but there might be 32. How many are on the small side?

I'm curious to figure out the gear ratio.