Track problems and SD 90

[rsn48]

I have done the usual tricks to find problem track, including pushing just trucks with my fingers; and yes I've used track gauges, etc which are easier to use once I have located a pinch point that visually looks just fine.  But it seems to me, my CP SD 90 seems to find every difficult spot, usually a pinch point that trains seem fine to run over but is a potential derailment down the line.  I'm hoping pushing the SD 90 around, not under power seems to be my best detective for finding problems.

So am I just dreaming or will the three axle SD 90 do the trick for bad track discoveries or is there some other engine that is even worse for the need of excellent track?

[davefoxx]

Well, if it seems to be your most finicky locomotive, then using the SD90 seems to be the best for checking your trackwork.  That said, I don't think pushing the locomotive around without power is going to be an accurate way to locate trouble spots.  The best is to identify spots where you have problems while running trains and then use your track gauge, eyeball, and even your finger to find the trouble areas.

I don't know that there's a particular locomotive or car that will be best to use under all circumstances.  Think about it, long cars, short cars, four-axle locomotives, six-axle locomotives, and long-based steam locomotives may all find different trouble spots.

What do you mean by "pinch point"?  Is that a spot where the track gauge is too narrow?  I assume you have checked the gauge of the SD90's wheelsets.  Many locomotives seem to come from the manufacturers with the back-to-back wheel spacing too tight (undergauged), and the fix is to widen the gauge.

Good luck!
DFF

[MichaelWinicki]

I dunno, I typically run trains (using a variety of loco's and cars) at a higher rate of speed than what you would normally run (say during operating sessions) in order to find any bad spots.

Before I relied on any specific locomotive to the "guinea pig" I'd make sure its wheels were in gauge.  Just about every new locomotive I've purchased was out of gauge– some worse than others.  No sense trying to find bad spots in your trackage using a locomotive that's not in gauge.

[rsn48]

I can personally vouch for the pushing bit of the SD 90 as I can feel the resistance clearly when I find a spot, even when the engine seems to run fine through it.

[jagged ben]

... I assume you have checked the gauge of the SD90's wheelsets.  ...

That's what I was going to say.

[rsn48]

Yes, when I first started having "trouble" with the SD 90 (not willing to admit it could possibly be a lack of quality on my brilliantly laid track) the gauge was the first thing I checked on the wheels.  It wasn't until recently that I was checking out track that was giving me some mystery problems that I discovered the "push an SD 90 through the problem area" method that I realized I had hit on something good, except for the number of pinch points I found.

[MichaelWinicki]

Yes, when I first started having "trouble" with the SD 90 (not willing to admit it could possibly be a lack of quality on my brilliantly laid track) the gauge was the first thing I checked on the wheels.  It wasn't until recently that I was checking out track that was giving me some mystery problems that I discovered the "push an SD 90 through the problem area" method that I realized I had hit on something good, except for the number of pinch points I found.

What kind of track is it?

[rsn48]

Peco 55.

[rochsub]

Are the wheels of the sd90 in gauge?

[spookshow]

Big six-axle diesels like the SD90 are great for finding bad track. Steamers with a lot of big drivers (EG 4-8-4's) are even better 

Cheers,
-Mark

[carlso]

 A KATO PA is also excellent for finding "bad" track.

Carl

[wmcbride]

Not that this helps but I had a Kato SD80 that NEVER stayed on the rails. Wheels in gauge, no weird coupler issues with rail heads or frogs BUT that sucker derailed a lot and in seemingly random places. I tried eliminating all variables and never could find the problem. I chalked it up to being haunted  , put its decoder in an SD90 and made the SD80 a yard fixture.

I wish you better luck.

BTW, how is that nolix going?

[Denver Road Doug]

I think the SD90 has been the defacto "track checker" for some time.   I remember folks discussing that way back on early Atlas forums.    So yes, if you can lick that problem you should be golden.   

[randgust]

Wow, Peco 55 going tight?  That stuff is so stiff, and rigid, I find it hard to believe it's pinching down.  I could believe Atlas C80 as it's loose on the ties and I've seen it spring due to temperature. 

Don't forget that the MT coupler gage has a track gage on it was well.  I use it to not only detect tight spots, but to hold them wide if I have to do repairs.   Spreads the rails right out if needed.

How much of a swing do you have in temperature and humidity in your train room, Pete?

Personally, I have a Hallmark 4-8-4 with eight-wheel tender trucks that is the designated 'mine canary' for detecting track irregularities, clearances, and excess optimism.  It's not usually track gauge that gets me, it's vertical curves and minor twists that are just off enough to lift a flange to derailment mode - think long fixed wheelbases and thin flanges.

But if you want a smaller engine, I'd also recommend the Atlas 4-4-0, that pilot truck can find things nothing else seems to care about.

[rsn48]

You can tell when I start working on my layout, I pick up my postings here.  Bill you almost shocked me with your question about my nolix, didn't think anyone remembered!  The track work for it is what I'm working on right now.  I used AMI for my road bed; AMI solves a lot of problems but creates it own set of problems.  I'm now the AMI expert on a product that no longer exists....lol.

One of the problems with AMI is that you can get kinks at the track joining area, subtle pinches you can't see but are there waiting to leap out and grab a passing wheel.  One of the benefits of AMI is that it is so easy to change your mind, you can lay a track, decide to do something differently, then decide your wrong and correct it back to the original within an hour and no gnashing of teeth.  But on large loops because the sticky AMI has some give initially (eventually it hardens right up) that  pinch points are common.

I haven't been in contact with the Reid brothers but apparently they have had some problems with AMI I probably know how to solve now.  Big nails and super glue are your friend with AMI.  I sweated a bit about how to solve the kinking until I tried something that I initially thought was dumb (I was desperate) but it worked like a charm.  I'm probably the only guy who uses a regular Estwing hammer and nail punch with a small but not model railroad nail to solve the problem.

First I find the location of the pinch, has to be pretty close to exact location.  I then grab a nail and depending on location the nail will be driven into the plywood through the AMI; once its roughly half way in, I get my wire cutter and snap off the remaining top at track level.  With my Estwing hammer and nail punch I then drive the nail further down, out of the way of wheels especially if the nail is on the inside of the rail.  Then with a gauge I see how much the rail is out and with gentle taps push the nail into the rail to apply the necessary correction; so far after doing this about 20 times I haven't over corrected (knock on wood).  I then hit the nail top with a black sharpie and the nail "disappears" to eventually be covered with ballast in some areas.

My son comes home from the military roughly around the middle of December for a couple of weeks and I want trains running on it.  I have already had trains running but with issues, I want to eliminate as many issues as possible.  I"m also on the executive of our Vancouver train show committee with the show on the 9th and 10th of November so as you can imagine, much time spent on that.

I don't know if I posted a pic with the track in, but the track you see in the pic below (if I remember how to post a pic) is what I am currently working on: