Bull Moose 2-8-8-0 Build

[pnolan48]

Interesting . . . as long as the gasket is intact, the "vacuum" pot should last forever. I just tighten them a little bit. As the vacuum forms, the screws pretty much fall off. I suck the moisture out of molding materials before I mix them. And I use about a 3X cup to account for the foaming--that is, 3 oz of material in an 11 oz cup. It really helped with polyurethane molding materials. I've also used vacuum when I suspect my casting material is getting old, or the house has acquired too much moisture. I have no problems in the winter, when the forced hot air heat makes the house dry, nor in the summer, when the A/C is on. But spring and fall, when I can get away with opening the windows and save a bit on gas and electricity--well, then I sometimes get materials that do not completely set, which makes an unholy mess.

I was perhaps not clear about "set time." I should have said pot life. I produce parts in moderately high volumes. A 15 minute pot life and 4-hour demold time is fine for huge parts like ship hulls. It's not very economical for small parts like winches and lifeboats, which I cast ten at a time. But, for some intricate small parts, it seems pressure casting might be necessary. I use syringes to inject casting materials into two-part molds for parts like modern rescue boats, injecting from the bottom, and this works fine about 85% of the time. Do you think it would work better if I injected them, stuffed them into a pressure pot, started up the compressor and, as you said, cleared the area? Seems like a hectic procedure that might be prone to error and, if you ever followed my Stupid Mistakes threads, you know I am prone to error.

DKS has published a photo of his set up with multiple pressure pots--what a lot of work! Is pressure casting something I really must implement?

I am truly appreciative of the advise I get on this forum!

[superturbine]

This week I got side tracked by another project.  However, here is the tender with all new rivet lines, radio boxes, wood decking and water hatches installed. 

[superturbine]

Interesting . . . as long as the gasket is intact, the "vacuum" pot should last forever. I just tighten them a little bit. As the vacuum forms, the screws pretty much fall off. I suck the moisture out of molding materials before I mix them. And I use about a 3X cup to account for the foaming--that is, 3 oz of material in an 11 oz cup. It really helped with polyurethane molding materials. I've also used vacuum when I suspect my casting material is getting old, or the house has acquired too much moisture. I have no problems in the winter, when the forced hot air heat makes the house dry, nor in the summer, when the A/C is on. But spring and fall, when I can get away with opening the windows and save a bit on gas and electricity--well, then I sometimes get materials that do not completely set, which makes an unholy mess.

I was perhaps not clear about "set time." I should have said pot life. I produce parts in moderately high volumes. A 15 minute pot life and 4-hour demold time is fine for huge parts like ship hulls. It's not very economical for small parts like winches and lifeboats, which I cast ten at a time. But, for some intricate small parts, it seems pressure casting might be necessary. I use syringes to inject casting materials into two-part molds for parts like modern rescue boats, injecting from the bottom, and this works fine about 85% of the time. Do you think it would work better if I injected them, stuffed them into a pressure pot, started up the compressor and, as you said, cleared the area? Seems like a hectic procedure that might be prone to error and, if you ever followed my Stupid Mistakes threads, you know I am prone to error.

DKS has published a photo of his set up with multiple pressure pots--what a lot of work! Is pressure casting something I really must implement?

I am truly appreciative of the advise I get on this forum!

Yes, pressure casting makes all the difference.

[mmagliaro]

Looks nice, Jason.  I like the wood deck. 
Are those water hatches supposed to sit on top like that?  I through water hatches were always pretty flat/flush
on top of a tender.

[superturbine]

Mine sit a little high, but yes they are suppose to be raised.
Top of a 9000 tender

[robert3985]

Looks nice, Jason.  I like the wood deck. 
Are those water hatches supposed to sit on top like that?  I through water hatches were always pretty flat/flush
on top of a tender.

Although I'm not Jason, I can answer the water hatch question.  Many tenders initially had more flush water hatches as built, but several roads modified them to be higher because it meant it was easier, and more precise for the tenders to have higher hatches, meaning much less water spillage.  Now, spillage didn't mean a lot during the warm months, but motive power and crews on cold northern roads during the Winter really suffered when the spillage froze and the service crews got wet.  Now, I don't know about those other roads specifically, but the UP extended most of their water hatches in the later years of steam (the late 40's and early 50's).  One of the spotting features for later Challengers and Big Boys are the extended water hatches which are several inches higher than what their tenders were initially equipped with.  Some engines looked pretty ridiculous with waaaay high water hatches such as several UP Harriman Era 0-6-0 switchers.

You have to remember that all the railroads were operated by union personnel, and much of the design of motive power, freight cars, passenger cars and cabooses, as well as other areas of the railroad, such as safety and comfort modifications at depots and service facilities were done with a lot of input from the unions and the men who worked the railroads and if equipment and facilities didn't function well, or were dangerous, or just uncomfortable, railroad management was wise to change it due to the recommendations/complaints of the union personnel who manned it or operated it.

[superturbine]

Very good explanation Robert, 
Years ago, for a friend, I had to climb Big Boy and Challenger tenders to see if specific engines had raised water hatches or not.  For my own builds most of my engines equipped for the 50's era I suppose my water hatches are not too far off.

[Cajonpassfan]

Looking good Jason! Boy those Archer rivets are a lifesaver!
I built one of these back in the dark ages and riveting was a bear...
(Look in your mail 
Keep the pics coming, I love it!
Otto

[mmagliaro]

Great info, folks (about the water hatches).  I'm glad I asked!  Ya learn something new every day.

[chicken45]

It may be old news now, but Lemosteam and I saw a Bachmann Mallet today. Pretty impressive stuff.

[superturbine]

The engine still needs a few more details, but it has a tender!





Jason Smith
Tomball Locomotive Works

[up1950s]

That is so nice , can I get me one Jason ?

[mmagliaro]

Beautiful Jason.  The wires, railings, and details came out really nice and the finish and weathering are excellent.

[superturbine]

That is so nice , can I get me one Jason ?

Yes Richie,

I will have to go back and build a master now, but I will make several improvements to the boiler over this engine.



Thanks Max!!  Cant wait to see your Masterpiece!

[draskouasshat]

nothing like a bullmoose! mines close but im almost done with the pilot.











boohoo k4?