Boston & Maine Steam

[Ian MacMillan]

For how to post photos, see:
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=26436.0

[jbcz]

Ian,

Thanks for the tip.  My photos are in Facebook.  I can't seem to get them displayed.  Is there a trick that I'm missing.  I get the box with the "x".

BTW, nice house.  We must be almost neighbors, i.e., we see the big lake across the street and 1/4 walk to view of Mt Washington.

Bruce

[Ian MacMillan]

 You generally cant remote link FB photos because those who are not logged into or dont use Fb cant see them. You would have to have them hosted on something like Flikr, Picasa or the like.

Thanks I'm in Wakefield on Grandview Loop. Have a view of Crescent Lake and Mt. Chororua and  if it's clear enough Mt. Washington

[jbcz]

Ian et al

Thanks for the posting tip.  Here's a photo of the R1 bashed from the J Class.

BTW, we are Gilford, NH.

Bruce

[peteski]

That is a nice model. Nothing against your kitbashing job, but the one thing that I really hate about those Bachmann models is that they use solid-plastic disks for spoke inserts in the drivers. That looks so toysh.

[Dave V]

You generally cant remote link FB photos because those who are not logged into or dont use Fb cant see them. You would have to have them hosted on something like Flikr, Picasa or the like.

Thanks I'm in Wakefield on Grandview Loop. Have a view of Crescent Lake and Mt. Chororua and  if it's clear enough Mt. Washington

I do this all the time from my Juniata Division Facebook page, but I can do this because it's a public page.  Try setting your FB pic to public and it might work.

[jbcz]

Peteski

Frankly I'd love to find drivers closer to the 73"  ones on the R1 and replace these as they are about 6 scale inches too small.  I think that the frame would accommodate larger drivers without too much trouble.  I hesitate to do too much surgery to the mechanism because it is a very nice running steamer that has a nice speed range.

jbcz

[coosvalley]

Ian et al


BTW, we are Gilford, NH.

Bruce

We are close neighbors, Laconia here, I work in Gilford!

[squirrelhunter]

jbcz, very nice looking steamer. I have always thought the B&M and L&HR 4-8-2 were some of the best looking ones in the country.

As to the 73" drivers, have you considered using a Con-Cor 4-8-4 chassis as a base? I think the drivers might be a bit big but they would capture the effect you are going for.

[absnut]

I bashed both a B&M R-1-a and an R-1-d using the Bachmann 4-8-4 (ATSF) chassis and shell and was quite pleased with the outcomes.  Wish I had considered the "J" chassis.

[Ian MacMillan]

I do this all the time from my Juniata Division Facebook page, but I can do this because it's a public page.  Try setting your FB pic to public and it might work.

I do it from mine as well, but I believe his is from just a normal wall.

This one is public from mine, can the non Fb'ers see it:

[pjm20]

Holy Crap its Jurassic Park , but with some snow.

[jbcz]

Dick

I built a couple of R1's from the original Bachmann ATAF 4-8-4 with Rivarosi 12 wheel tenders. These locos are similar with the chopped boiler and cab.  I have not been able to find a centipede tender.   The nice thing about the 12 wheel tenders are that they give additional electrical pickup with no work when hooked to the Minitrix trailing truck. The locos run well.  I just couldn't resist using the J because the new one is such a good runner.

I've noticed that you have adapted Minitrix 2-10-0's by moving the boiler casting back.  I have done the same and was able to retain the lighting with a little adapting.  I took a Rivarossi heavy pacific boiler casting and chopped it up, used some Kato mike parts for firebox front and rear sand dome, cut up a Minitrix trailing truck and added a Bachmann long USRA tender to produce an S class 2-10-2.  It's a "close enough" rendition.  There were enough different variants of the S1's that it's believeable without lots of extra detail.  I like your 2-8-4. Where did you get the Coffin feedwater heater?  One of thise would really enhance my S1.

Bruce

[absnut]

Bruce, I found it was a simple operation to move the Trix boiler back on the 2-10-0 chassis so that the steam pipes and the cylinders lined up.  I did lose the head light in the process.  I needed to adapt a new drawbar so that electrical  dependability could be maintained.

I decided to build two T-1 Berks, one from the initial order with an 8 wheel tender and one from t=a later order with a 12 wheel tender.  The 8 wheeler is a Bachmann product and, like the 12 wheeler that came with the loco, supported the pick-up arrangement.  The Coffin feed-water "hoods" were sliced from an Atlas long tank car: right size, right shape, right curve with the addition of some brass wire for piping and some coiled solder (shaped easily).  For the one version, I bashed two Concor Hudson trailing trucks to get the right wheel base.  If I had had four of them, I would have done the same for the other loco.  Knowing the lot were sold to the ATSF and SP after WWII, I scratch/bashed a whale back tender to go with one of them if I ever sold one.  Building these locos and the tender is included in the B&MRH Modelers Notes as well as the NTRAK Steam Addendum.






















I bashed two R-1 Mountains using the Bachmann 4-8-4 chassis and cut down boilers.  I, too, used Atlas/Rivarossi trailing trucks and a Rivarossi tender for the R-1-a and a Concor/Rivarossi Centipede tender for the R-1-d, generously sent to me by Bruce Bowden.  They are rather rare and difficult to chase to ground these days.

My first B&M bashing project was to convert a Model Power 2-6-0 to a B&M Class B-15, a rather straight forward project, described in both of the above mentioned publications.

Getting away from the B&M, I had to try a Boston and Albany 4-6-6T, using Atlas shells, a Kato 4-6-2 chassis and a Concor tender truck.

[jbcz]

Dick

Those are great models.  I've always liked what you have done.  It was your posts that inspired me to do my first 4-8-2.

Bruce