Help brush painting Badger Modelflex

[squirrelhunter]

Ok, I was adding some details to the roof of an Atlas MKT GP 40 and would up spilling CA on the roof, so I stripped the cab roof of paint.

Got some Badger Modelflex MKT green and figured since it was a small area, and I'd already had to sand it, I'd brush paint it directly on, using water as thinner. I'd lightly wet the brush, then dip it in the paint and brush on a very light coat. Did this 4 or so times, and you can see the results below. I'm not happy with how it turned out, it clearly has spots where the paint "pooled" despite the fact I would brush it back and forth lightly as I applied it to try and break the surface tension to get it to spread out evenly. Plus it is drying to a semi gloss finish and I'd like to get it to go on as more of a flat coat, like the factory paint.

Suggestions? Should I strip it and prime it before brush painting it on again? Or should I be using a different thinner? The only suggestion I'm not open to is getting an airbrush, don't have a spray booth and don't have enough painting projects right now to justify getting one.

sorry for the crummy cell phone camera pics. Also in the 3rd shot I hit the paint with very fine sandpaper very lightly after it dried. Not going to do that again.

[kalbert]

Brush painting Modelflex is difficult because it is already fairly thin for airbrushing right from the bottle. I recently started trying some Modelflex and so far I like it, but I've been only air brushing. If you have an air brush, why not give it a shot? You don't need a full on spray booth for such a small job. Mask  the areas you don't want any paint on, drift a couple light coats, done. Do it outside if you can, or at least cover most of your work bench with newspaper and give it a go. The usual applies, don't spray by the furnace, wear a mask and gloves if it makes you feel better. Paint particles are no good for you solvent base or not, the solvent base is really no good for you.

[engineshop]

Modelflex was designed to be pre-thinned for airbrush, not for regular brushes. You won't get better results without an airbrush.

[peteski]

As other's have mentioned, this paint is airbrush-ready, out of the bottle. You also mentioned that you further thinned it using water?!  Well, try using it without thinning it at all.

[arbomambo]

just can't brush paint it...
like stated before, some formulas lend themselves very well to brush painting and others were never designed to do so...
~Bruce

[LIRR]

Try a very light over spray with a spray bomb. As close to the finish color as you can get. Then brush paint. The spray paint has a wee bit of texture and will give the brush on paint something to bite on. I hand paint my locomotives this way in L&N grey and get good results.

[squirrelhunter]

So basically I need to strip it and prime under it? Peteski, I was concerned that paint as is would go on too thick and too glossy. LIRR, I like your suggestion. Do you just go get a rattle caan from Wal Mart in the closest color?

Re: getting an airbrush- Besides the lack of a good, dust free place to spray outside or a spray booth inside, this is the only project I don't have an enamel color for or that needs coverage of highly visible flat areas. I guess a good airbrush would set me back $50? at least and I just don't have anything to use it for for a while after that.  If I spend that much I might as well scrounge a spare decorated shell from Atlas or Ebay and just swap the cab entirely.

[LIRR]

Yes...I use a spray can of Rustoleum. I've painted undecorated shells this way, and I just painted over a red LV unit and it didn't show thru. There are photos on my layout Enginnering thread: the L&N somewhere in eastern Kentucky

[peteski]

General purpose aerosol paints sold in hardware stores (or Walmart) are usually fairly "hot". They might not be compatible with a water-based ModelFlex paint. They might wrinkle it.

As far as being afraid that the paint would have brushed on too thick or glossy, here are couple of observations:

1. If the paint in the bottle appears to be very thin (which ModelFlex is), you shouldn't worry about it going on too thick.

2. If you are using some brand or type of paint for the first time, try it on some scrap piece of plastic before using it on your model. That way you'll get the feel of how the paint goes on without worrying about ruining your model. I often use cheap plastic spoons (from a supermarket) for that purpose. They are made from white polystyrene (similar to the plastic used on the locomotive shells).

[central.vermont]

Squirrel,
I would also suggest you get a high quality artist brush with very fine bristles such as moe hair or better. Go with a wide flat brush even as wide as a 1/2 inch so you can wipe across just once and leave few marks. Years ago before I got an air brush all I used was brushes and I had a lot of sizes to pick from for the task at hand. Also as every one else has said use the paint straight from the bottle for best results.

Hope this helps, Jon

[Sokramiketes]

While its not my first choice for brush painting, ModelFlex will lay down nice and even with a lot of brushwork... As others have mentioned, don't thin it or pre wet the brush. Use it straight from the bottle. The other thing you noticed is that it pools. You'll have to keep working it until it starts to stick to the surface. Then draw it across the surface until covered... Then run away!  It's more of a film than a paint and will suck itself down to the surface on its own.

Since you have the color mathed it's worth trying one more time.

[ednadolski]

1. If the paint in the bottle appears to be very thin (which ModelFlex is), you shouldn't worry about it going on too thick.

Too much tho and the paint will start to run or puddle.  Best to do multiple coats, esp. with certain colors that won't cover well in a single coat anyway.

As mentioned, be sure to test first.  I got myself a few of the little cheapie airplane model kits that were on clearance just for that, and it saved me time as well as a shell or two.

In the long run, a decent airbrush and taking the time to learn is a really worthy investment IMHO.   It really opens up a world of opportunities, and it pays for itself just in the sense of accomplishment.


HTH,
Ed

[dougnelson]

One more suggestion:  use the other end of the brush to mix the paint and make sure that all pigment is scraped off the bottom of the bottle and mixed with the medium.  Third will ensure that the paint is full strength.

Doug.

[squirrelhunter]

Sokramiketes hit it on the head about it being a good match out of the bottle for he Atlas factory paint- which is why I want to use it so badly.

I'll strip it down, try what sokramiketes and central vermont suggested first, and keep LIRR's suggestion in my back pocket if needed.

This is why I really like the railwire- you guys are a wealth of knowledge and willing to help.

I'll post pics when it all turns out (hopefully sometime next week).

[kalbert]

This will probably be poo poo'd by the airbrush gods but go get yourself a $20 Harbor Freight air brush kit and spray some paint. You don't need anything fancy to do a small single color piece like the roof of a cab. You're not doing flames on a motorcycle tank!

Rustoleum is going to spray on thick no matter how gentle you are, its like using a jackhammer when a tack hammer would do. This all sounds overkill fir such a simple repair. If you want a little tooth on the surface scrub it with some 600 grit.

I don't think dust is a real concern either, no more dust will settle in airbrushed paint than brush brushed paint or spray can paint.