Bachmann S4 question

[Puddington]

I popped my 44T glass out with a knife blade.

.. as did I.....

[Tsail]

Scott , everyone knows that the differential refraction % to contrasting materials, given ambient temperature of a Westinghouse refrig filled with Coors Light, is pretty much equal to room temperature cranial rectal inversion friction, taking into effect a hair loss varience of course, of about +/- 3.5 %. Well within metric parameters for blade use.
Just use a blade mate. We can discuss further at the D man's when I come up the first week in Sept. See you then.

Water expands 15% when frozen, so the idea has merit as some level.  Anyone who lives with freeze-thaw knows the power of ice to fracture materials.

I was actually thinking this might also work more in terms of differential contraction of the materials involved.

[Scottl]

Oh no, there is more than one Scott on TRW! 

[Catt]

Never tried the feezer method with water just put the offending item in the freezer for 8 hours.Then work it while it is still ice cold.By the way Peteski this urban myth has been working for me for over 10 years now.YMMV.

[peteski]

Never tried the feezer method with water just put the offending item in the freezer for 8 hours.Then work it while it is still ice cold.By the way Peteski this urban myth has been working for me for over 10 years now.YMMV.

Sure it works. But did you first try (and fail) to spearate the parts at a room temperature?    But it is good to know that it works (at least for you).

As far as the water expansion goes (I know that it was me, not you who mentioned it), sure, it expands when it freezes. But how will it find its way into a glue joint in the first place.  Iif the glue joint is solid enough that it is not possible to disassemble, it will not allow water to get in either.

[Catt]

As far as the water expansion goes (I know that it was me, not you who mentioned it), sure, it expands when it freezes. But how will it find its way into a glue joint in the first place.  Iif the glue joint is solid enough that it is not possible to disassemble, it will not allow water to get in either.

Seems to me the only chance the water freezing would work was if the glue joint was bad to begin with,in which case other methods would most likly be as sucessful in braking the joints so we do agree on that point.Depending on how much glue was used.I have a Walthers building that has a solid bead of glue running the length of every joint even the windows.Fortunately it was a very clean build but the building will never be modified.

Sometimes you just can't win.

[Iain]

Water expands 15% when frozen, so the idea has merit as some level.  Anyone who lives with freeze-thaw knows the power of ice to fracture materials.

I was actually thinking this might also work more in terms of differential contraction of the materials involved.

So, if we're looking for thermal based differential expansion/contraction, then my oxi-aceteline torch out to do the trick!

Oh, wait.

[learmoia]

Comment Removed.

[johnh35]

What about frame compatibility with other shells like Life Like SW8/9/1200?

I'd buy some to DCC some SW units.

~Ian

It would be a major pain in the arse. The boxes and tanks on the underside are cast as part of the frame. The S4 cab area is filled with the frame and would require some serious grinding. You could make it work, but these are so light as it is that it wouldn't be feasible. Better to stick with the LL mech and TCS Z2 decoder.

[C855B]

Mine just arrived today... I'm at a loss to understand why there is a problem with the glazing. Yes, it may be quite thick, but fits very well in the window openings and is flush with the carbody, surely as good or better than other RTR product of my experience. To me, not worth the work of replacement.

The only puzzlement I have is why they included Rapido couplers in the package. I thought they stopped doing that with the second run of Centennials. Anyway, I definitely agree - if there's a mod that needs to happen, it's MTL Z-scale couplers. The honkin' stock couplers draw the eye too much.

[sdodge]

Sort of a stray but I would have bought a couple of these if they came in yellow/black w/o lettering like the NW2 and the GE's.

[Chris333]

I would have bought a P&LE S4 if it was a P&LE S4.

[Puddington]

I would have bought a P&LE S4 if it was a P&LE S4.

An explaination for this comment is appreciated...........

[DKS]

An explaination for this comment is appreciated...........

The scheme they used is a fantasy scheme. The correct one looks like this:

[Chris333]

P&LE was heavy around here and in fact 2 P&LE photos I found were taken just a few miles from me. So while an S4 is too new for me I would still love to have one.

Some real links:
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/ple/ple8633s.jpg
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/ple/ple8639s.jpg
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/ple/ple8649s.jpg
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/ple/ple8664s.jpg

This is a P&LE S4 when built:


And this is a few years later with "radio" added, shortly after they were all sold:


Photo of them in Cleveland after they were sold. All P&LE S4's were sold in 1966:
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/ple/ple9735s.jpg

Here is a Howard Fogg post card of the Lake Erie & Eastern (a shortline of the P&LE) showing an S4:


Here is another Howard Fogg painting where he got creative with the paint scheme. He is also known to paint P&LE geeps in schemes that never happened:


Here is the Bachmann model:
http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.volusion.com/ztna9.tft5b/v/vspfiles/photos/BAC-63153-2.jpg?1376127645

Bachmann's research has to be based solely on that one painting.

Later around 1977-1979 P&LE started large yellow letters (in a different font) on the hoods of their SW1500's

So for me to buy the P&LE S4 would be the same as buying one with Donald Duck on the side. I think the model looks good enough, but the scheme is all wrong.