New video uploaded to youtube

[6axlepwr]

I have uploaded a new video to youtube. This one is on stripping paint from Kato models.

I have found this method to be the best and safest method to remove paint. It is quick and VERY easy.

Hope you find it useful.

Brian

[bbussey]

Brian, here is the embedded vid command (without the spaces):

[ youtube ] XtqEDuiZfzk [ / youtube ]

[peteski]

...and change the subject of this thread to something less generic like: Video of how to strip paint from Kato shells.
Don't be lazy. 

[mandealco]

Nice and very helpful video Brian. Thanks for all the tips and guides you put on the various forums.  Your work is stunning.
Cheers
Steve

[davefoxx]

Brian,

Wow, that does look easy.  Obviously, judging by the color, you reuse the alcohol.  Do you have any idea how times you can reuse it, before it gets too mucked up from old paint residue?

Thanks,
DFF

[sd75i]

  Thanks Brian.  I knew of the 91%, but not the motor tool and brush.  I've got 6 units to do and this is great!

 dave t

[Philip H]

Hey  Where's that Facebook like button again?

Brian,
That's about the neatest thing I've seen this week.  Dremel needs to give you a cut of all the sales they will get.  Nicely done.

[mplsjct]

I think you could probably do a decent business just stripping the Kato shells!

Thanks for the tips, I've used essentially the same process, but with a toothbrush instead of the Dremel.

[Hyperion]

I've used 91% for years, but never found a motor tool attachment that was soft enough not to damage the plastic.  Nor did I ever think about leaving the parts in the alcohol while doing it -- mostly because I do it inside and the mess would kinda suck.

However, I will definitely take note of these tips for the future.  And have already ordered a couple of the dremel attachments.

[6axlepwr]

Brian,

Wow, that does look easy.  Obviously, judging by the color, you reuse the alcohol.  Do you have any idea how times you can reuse it, before it gets too mucked up from old paint residue?

Thanks,
DFF

The paint does not muchk it up at all. It looks dirty, but the paint is like sediment. It does not mix with the alcohol. Beore I moved here, I have had that container full of alcohol for two years and used it regularly. The problem you do get is if you put small parts in it they tend to be hard to find in all the paint sediment. You can screen it out though if there is to much paint floating in it.

Brian

[JanesCustomTrain]

You can screen it out though if there is to much paint floating in it.

just let the alcohol run thru a paper coffee filter to get rid of the paint sediments

Jane

[havingfuntoo]

Ok here we go again, the use of materials with out knowledge of them.

Read the material safety data sheet on the material you are going to use before you start using it.

The vapor coming off the surface of the 91% alcohol will be creating an explosive environment, the sparks generated by the motor of the electric tool could ignite the vapor resulting in a nice little fire with a large flash to start with, (there goes your eye sight).

If it is absolutely necessary to use such tools to agitate the paint on the surface of the model in an environment as described, an air operated die grinder would be a fare better tool to employ, failing that at least use a flexible shaft that will take the tool away from the alcohol and be sure to provide a flow of fresh air from outside eg use a fan in an external window or an external door to blow fresh air on to your working area. Safety glasses would be a good investment also, I like the Bolle brand.     

[Scottl]

It is a nice video and I think the Dremel will help with stubborn paint, but I do think the safety issues are not trivial, especially in a confined location like a basement workroom.  If you did it outside in a good breeze, this would minimize the risk and disperse the fumes.

I have used the same method of soaking in 91% or 99% alcohol and scrubbing with an old toothbrush with great success and only a little more effort.

[Philip H]

Ok here we go again, the use of materials with out knowledge of them.

Read the material safety data sheet on the material you are going to use before you start using it.

The vapor coming off the surface of the 91% alcohol will be creating an explosive environment, the sparks generated by the motor of the electric tool could ignite the vapor resulting in a nice little fire with a large flash to start with, (there goes your eye sight).

If it is absolutely necessary to use such tools to agitate the paint on the surface of the model in an environment as described, an air operated die grinder would be a fare better tool to employ, failing that at least use a flexible shaft that will take the tool away from the alcohol and be sure to provide a flow of fresh air from outside eg use a fan in an external window or an external door to blow fresh air on to your working area. Safety glasses would be a good investment also, I like the Bolle brand.     

First, if you look at the part where he's scrubbing it - there's what appears to be an open garage door behind him.  So I'd say there is plenty of fresh air getting.  Which is where your MSDS ranting gets off track - while it is true that 91% Iso will form flammable vapors above 57 degrees F (It's vaporization point) they are only flammable IF there is suitable concentration and IF there is an ignition source present at the point where that concentration is reached.  If Iso were really that flammable just sitting in an open tub, then turning on his camera or opening his garage would create enough spark to ignite the thing.

So yes, we should all read the MSDS.  Just remember those are written for INDUSTRIAL applications, where concentrations can and routinely do exceed flammability and exposure limits.  They are NOT written for stuff like this.  Frankly, the MSDS for Floquil will give you the willies - so long as you ignore the concentration issues.

[peteski]

First, if you look at the part where he's scrubbing it - there's what appears to be an open garage door behind him.  So I'd say there is plenty of fresh air getting.  Which is where your MSDS ranting gets off track - while it is true that 91% Iso will form flammable vapors above 57 degrees F (It's vaporization point) they are only flammable IF there is suitable concentration and IF there is an ignition source present at the point where that concentration is reached.  If Iso were really that flammable just sitting in an open tub, then turning on his camera or opening his garage would create enough spark to ignite the thing.

So yes, we should all read the MSDS.  Just remember those are written for INDUSTRIAL applications, where concentrations can and routinely do exceed flammability and exposure limits.  They are NOT written for stuff like this.  Frankly, the MSDS for Floquil will give you the willies - so long as you ignore the concentration issues.

Philip, we aren't worried about camera being the point of ignition.  It is the Dremel tool's commutator which sparks heavily, very close to the alcohol vapors.  All power tools which have motors with brushes will produce constant sparking between commutator and brushes.

But after reading that another member here was airbrushing their rails with Floquil while sucking the over-spray (and all the fumes) directly into their shop-vac, I no longer feel like there is any need of trying to warn people about possible dangers from the silly things they are doing.