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Conducta-lube is not a conductive lubricant (despite what the name implies). It improves and restores conductivity between metal parts by keeping them free of oxidation.But watch out for the items with "conductive" sounding names (like Conducto-lube), which don't specifically state that they are conductive.
Conducta-lube is meant for conductors. Hence it's name. It is not a conductor itself, but unlike regular oils and lubricants it will not act as an insulator.
Really? So is it ... a semiconductor? Come on, oils and greases are insulators. They become conductive when you add some sort of conducting substance to them (like graphite or powdered metal). I love to hear the explanation (or some sort of spec sheet) showing how conducta-lube doesn't act like an insulator. What exactly does it act as? Conducta-lube improves conductivity by preventing metal oxidation. Un-oxidized metal surfaces touching each-other more reliably conduct electricity than oxidized metal surfaces. The blurb I've read about conducta-lube stated that it improves conductivity. To me it implies that the oily film will coat the metal surfaces, preventing oxidiation.
Well, I thank everyone and have tried all the above listed suggestions. Twice. And...the engine went from running poorly to....not running at all now. Totally dead.
The first thing I llok at with any loco is if it has that terrible white grease in it. If it has make sure you remove the lot. The lube I use for all my locos is a locally produced product called Lanotec. It is a liquid lanolin and I have found it works like a treat and does improve electrical pickup. Great stuff and I will soon be marketing it to the Australian modelling public through my business.RegardsAl
Time to tear down the locomotive, and perform a systematic series of tests to find out where conductivity is being inhibited. Start by removing and testing the motor separately.If the motor runs, test the path from each wheel to whatever collects the current and delivers it to the motor. By checking each group of parts before dismantling, you ought to eventually identify where the breakdown is located.BTW, I have never found cause to lubricate pickup cups in a truck. If there's a problem with them, it's usually a collection of lint and dirt in the cup which, when removed, restores operation just fine.
Excellent advice. I also NEVER lube the pickup cups on any of my models. You're just asking for problems if you do. These are designed to operate lube-free. The friction between the axle tips and the cups keeps them oxidation free at that point, which is all that's necessary. Truthfully, they could be completely oxidized or even painted and if all that was bright was the interior of the cups, then electrical conductivity is as is should be.
It's not an oil, Peteski. Unless you can tell me what kind of "oils" evaporate...And where did you read that it prevents metal oxidation?
I've seen un-lubricated axle needle points eat right into the cupped bearing surface.
As for the lubrication aspect, consider: trucks removed from a loco often roll better (without oil) than most freight trucks.
The performance advantage of lubrication on needle bearings is likely too small to measure, and the minuscule amount of friction involved helps keep the metal clean and conductive.
In general, I apply a bare minimum of lubricant to a loco (as compared to many manufacturers and some modelers, who seem to bathe them in oil and grease). I apply a tiny amount of light oil to motor and drive shaft bearings, and an even tinier amount of light grease to worms. If I can see lubricant anywhere except on these surfaces, then I know there's too much.
I absolutely agree with you that less is more, but I also lubricate the axle cup bearings.
Hey, you're the one who has to clean them, so whatever floats your boat.
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Topic: Cleaning a new Atlas Geep 9 (Read 6622 times)
