Painted vs. Printed Backdrops

[Cajonpassfan]

I tried something like this a while back, the trick is that there are a lot of knobs that can be changed.  Do you have any more details on the filters that you use?  Or how to improve the match between the colors in the photo with the model colors?

I've also seen canvas photo prints where the image was filtered to look more like it was painted with a brush.  Does anyone have more info about how this is done?

Thanks,
Ed

Ed, I use a "dry brush" filter and play with brush size and color and color intensity a lot; it is not a quick and easy solution....I can paint a "pretty okay" backdrop a lot quicker, but the photoshopped backgrounds can be stunning, especially when modeling well recognizable places, The trick in my very humble opinion is to manipulate the output to a point where you can't quite tell whether you're looking at a photo or a painting. Some of my backdrops are actually more than one layer...the more distant layers have much less color saturation. As to matching the backdrop to scenery colors, I prefer the other way around....find near backdrop colors that work well for your scenic setting and lighting type, and then match your scenery to that. If you can't, the scenery probably won't look right either...
I do not have a picture hosting site so I can't upload photos here,  but if you have access to Trainboard, you can find photos of my layout backdrops there.
Hope this helps answer the question...
Regards, Otto K.

[randgust]

This has been expirimented on for years, so the answer is 'yes'.

Layer 1 is the basic horizon line method...blue goes to white...  earth color comes up to blue.  It's amazing how much depth you get just out of that.  Look right above the locomotive.

Layer 2 is printed elements.   You'll see some of that in the buildings and the trees to the left, right above Club 66.  Those are commercial parts cut out with an xacto and layered in on the horizon line.

Layer 3 is photographic and rather specific.  The side of the Monte Vista is a photo; Mt.  Eldon is a photo, and the Winona cinder pit cone in the background is a photo.  Cut out and applied to the basic backdrop.   Those are specific, recognizable elements that establish location that I really wanted to add.  The trick is that they are individual elements cut out and applied over the basic horizon-line painted backdrop.  If you get the colors right, it seems to work OK.  I took the shots of Mt Eldon from that angle myself when I was out there.

[PAL_Houston]

I currently have both, and both work for me:  I think a lot depends on the effects you are shooting for.

The photo-image backdrop provides depth to this scene that I could never re-create by painting, probably because of the hazy effect of the print, and the depth of the shot (far hills on the horizon).



On the other hand, painting trees on the back-drop can also provide depth for objects (trees) that are supposed to be close behind some of the foreground scenery elements (near hill on the horizon), as below:

[Erik W]

Speaking of blending.  I found these photos I took a while ago.  I think the addition to the backdrop in the second photo helps.  It could probably use some 3 dimensional scenery on the base of the backdrop to break it up even more.  Since this is my first layout, it's been a test bed for building my skill set and figuring out what works for me. 

Before:


After:


Erik

[randgust]

Erik....

One of the problems you've got with your situation is that you've got an 'enforced' straight line across the backdrop, combined with the usual shifts of color and clarity.

There's two ways to attack that.  One is to try to conceal it by putting something across that 'line' so that it is broken up.  That can be anything from more slightly hilly scenery to vegetation or whatever.

The other alternative is to emphasize it and come up with a justification for that arrow-straight transition line.   In your case, expiriment with putting a fenceline across it (like the brass etched barbed wire), that might work.  Also, some more distinct photo-quality elements in front of what you already have can be deceiving; you've got a good start on that with the buildings on the left.   Something 'mid-range' between the distant mountains and the foreground transition.  You've got the left hand side with the buildings and the fence about dead-on.

In my case I have the exact same situation, can't hide it.  So I put a road right across it, justifying that dead-straight transition line.  My breakpoint is the highway edge and guard rails.  I have about four continuous feet of roadway right against the backdrop transition edge.

On this shot, the guard rails behind the red 'vette are glued right on the backdrop.  The bridge edge is right on the backdrop, the tracks go in a hole under the bridge, the cactus backdrop is on the other side of the hole and lit from the back.  There's a front-surface reflective mirror on the LH side as well.



Here's the same spot looking straight down vertical, which shows all the visual trickery (original bridge, not replacement):



That's so you can see how tight the road edge is for the transition line.  It's right on there.

Just down the road, off the overpass - the far edge of the road is the transition line, and the backdrop is straight vertical from that:



The mountains are off of the Details West backdrops  (HO size, by the way), cut out of the sky (which always just bubbled on me - I throw all the sky stuff out).   My sky is the original transition-painted horizon line masonite backdrops, these are the printed elements cut out and rubber-cemented over top of the transition line starting point.

[ljudice]

The backdrop/bridge illusion is brilliant...   

I was considering doing exactly this but had concerns that it could be pulled off... 

Thanks for pointing this out!!!

- Lou

[Alaska Railroader]

I would love to see a commercially made backdrop where someone used the paint effect tools on a photograph. I also believe that photos have a "blah" look to them when put next to the brilliant colors used in model railroading, especially under bright lighting. If you could edit your photo to have a more brilliant coloring, like you would see in colorful photo jigsaw puzzles, make it a definite matte finish, it might have the look of Woodland Scenics greens and browns and yellows, etc. Sounds expensive for those of us not in the sign business but it might be fun and worth it as well.

[Chris333]

This is the photo I started with on my Nn3 layout:


Later when I started scenery I thought the photo didn't match so I "brightened" it up a bit to match:

[Alaska Railroader]

Later when I started scenery I thought the photo didn't match so I "brightened" it up a bit to match:

Now that's what I'm talkin about! Very very nice!

[Erik W]

Randgust, Thanks for the feedback.  I think I may lengthen the fence, add some closer 2 dimensional stuff on the backdrop and add more vegetation to help break up the demarcation line.  That's section is only a section about a foot or so long.  To the left of that is the city section with Detail Associates backdrop buildings (I also cut them out and discard the sky part), building flats and 3 dimensional buildings.  To the right of the scene is the mountain scenery.

Erik

 

[randgust]

Yeah, Chris, that's seriously good matchup.  Good point too, is that if you have your own photos and can make your own printing, you don't have to settle on the first attempt.   On the elements I've put up, I've expirimented with several levels of color saturation, etc., propped them up, photographed them and picked the ones that looked best in the results.

The rubber-cement is an important part for me to for both the printed elements and the photos, because even after the stuff dries out, it will peel back off the masonite hardboard painted portion.   When I redid the one business block in Flag, it left a big hole where one building was and I'm having to add back some more distant treeline that wasn't there before, requiring adjustment (surgery) of what is already there.    It's not as permanent as it might look.     I'm not particularly satisfied with one area of Winslow at all, I'm still looking for postcards and photos that can be adapted to get some specific buildings on there.   There's one building that's right behind the depot that I've always wanted on the backdrop and I just can't get it to look right.

I originally tried to paint some backdrop details, namely the San Francisco peaks, right on the backdrop...wow, was that a failure.  Anything more complicated than the horizon line thing was just beyond me and still is.   I even had the calendar photo of the area to go from.   The breakthrough was when I actually taped the photo to the backdrop and went 'DUH!'

[fifer]

Great stuff there Randy.
I use a combination of painted , printed and painted on printed.
Here is a little sample.

Mike

[rogergperkins]

Mike, thanks for another great video and for sharing your inspirational layout. 
I have some appreciation for the efforts in making such videos and then putting them into Youtube format.
This is no small task.  Thanks again.

[fifer]

Thanks so much Roger , I love doing them and usually take requests from my customers and have a few good topics to do right now.
Thanks Again , Mike

[mmagliaro]

Randgust and Chris, those are really excellent backdrops!    Smart blending and visual tricks.  Great work.