Fox Valley GP60M's

[fifer]

Mike,

Do you think it might be possible to drill up into the light pipe under the walkway toward the ditchlights, put some fiber optic tubing in the hole and then attach/run it along the FVM plastic light pipe back up to the LED?

Bill McBride

I am thinking you could but the problem would be the drilled hole would not have a polished finish in the bottom which would also restrict light transfer but may be better. If I was to tackle this issue I would try either LEDs at the ditch light or plastic fiber light tubes. For me this issue is way down on my priority list.
Thanks , Mike

[carlso]

I do not have one of the GP-60's, so I can not look to check out the lights. My understanding is that there are two light pipes. One for the headlight and the second one for ditch lights. Is this correct?

I have seen the pictures that were posted by Jim. To me there is a very simple solution. Do away with all of the ditchlight pipe all the way. Totally remove it. Then I would cut some lengths of fibers, they do not have to be large diameter either, and attach into the ditchlight opening on front of porch. Then let it seek its own path and attach the other end to the headlight tube directly in front of the LED. As you know, LED's throw a beam and are not real great at sideways light transmission.

In attached image, all lights are from .75mm/30mil fibers. Plenty bright. I know, I have to reduce the cab lighting but that will be easy. Point is the fibers work well and are easy.

Carl

[Scottl]

Since this thread has dissolved into ditch lights... 

This solution with fibre makes sense and I have tried it.  How do you make it work for removing the shell if the fibre is mounted to the shell and the LED is on the chassis?  I've been trying to figure out a solution for ages.

[peteski]

And then we come back to the question of just where to connect the wires on the FVM board - or which DCC board will fit the FVM chassis.  Will the resistor on the FVM board handle three LEDs?

Unfortunately, that would have to be a custom installation (not relying on the FVM factory circuit board).  As far as the current-limiting resistors go, the best practice is to have separate resistor for each LED.  If all the LEDs on the model are connected through the single resistor then the current is split between all the lit LEDs.  So, if the headl9ight was on, turning on the ditch lights would reduce the brightness of the headlight and when the ditch lights were flashing alternately then the headlight's brightness would again be changing, following the alternating pattern of the ditch lights.

But adding resistors should not be a problem. very small SMD resistors can be used, For example (depending on the current draw of the LED), you might be able to use 0603 size resistor. If a resistor with a higher wattage rating is needed then you can use 0805 or 1206 size resistors. All of those are still much smaller and flatter than standard through-hole mounted resistors.

The size nomenclature is an industry standard (same as SMD LEDs).  So, 0603 is 0.060" x 0.030", 0805 is 0.080" x 0.050", and 1206 is 0.120" x 0.060".  Their thickness is usually less than 0.030".

[carlso]

Scottl,

If your question was intended for me - In the case of the KATO SD-40 snoot nose, because I moved the headlights to the nose and placed the bell on the cab I had no choice but to use fibers or LEDs. I chose fibers. What I did in this case was to glue a piece of styrene tubing with a large enough inside diameter to hold all four fibers. I glued that tube to the cab ceiling as near to and as straight lined as possible to the LED. BTW, this is a TCS decoder with board mounted LED. If I want to remove the shell, I do it in one piece thus not disturbing the fibers. If I want to remove the cab from the shell I can do so while attempting to not let the fibers slip from the tube. If they do, I just work at putting them back in. In this KATO case the fibers were bent rather sharply into an elongated S curve, so there are not any 90's or such. The .75mm fiber is quite easy to bend. It did take a little patience, something that I am lacking, but it did eventually go together.

As far as the FVM GP-60 goes, I can't say because I have not seen inside the shell. My guess would  be that the interior is similar to the KATO as far as assembly goes.

[Scottl]

Thanks carlso, that is a good way to do it.  I need to do something like that on my fleet as they all have nose headlights.

[CBQ Fan]

My order is on the way!!!!

[CBQ Fan]

Mine showed up today.  MISSING the left number board.  Not installed in the engine and not in the box loose.  Sent a note out to FVM, hopefully they can send replacements quickly.  Frustrating for the price to say the least.  Otherwise they look awesome and run great!  Just looks stupid when running down the main winking at you, if you catch my meaning!! 

[cnw mike]

Check out 5:50!

[dave n]

Wow, 2 B's on the same train, and a foreign road at that....that's gotta be uber-rare.

[cnw mike]

Wow, 2 B's on the same train, and a foreign road at that....that's gotta be uber-rare.

Coming from Canada too!

[CBQ Fan]

Mine showed up today.  MISSING the left number board.  Not installed in the engine and not in the box loose.  Sent a note out to FVM, hopefully they can send replacements quickly.  Frustrating for the price to say the least.  Otherwise they look awesome and run great!  Just looks stupid when running down the main winking at you, if you catch my meaning!! 

All problems resolved!  Awesome customer service from FVM!!!

[lock4244]

Wow, 2 B's on the same train, and a foreign road at that....that's gotta be uber-rare.

Brand new, fresh out of GM's plant in London... being delivered to ATSF in Chicago.

[oakcreekco]

All problems resolved!  Awesome customer service from FVM!!!

Good to hear that.

I never thought that the street price of a 4 axle loco would hit close to $100. That said, these FVM's are the nicest 4 axles to ever hit the "N" scale rails, and worth it.

The service and support make it even better.

[gpr45]

I have just joined the Railwire. The reason (other than being an N gauge nut), was the interest and debate over the Fox Valley GP60M. I received my locomotive a few days ago, great detail! However, out of box running was like a worn out coffee grinder! After reviewing your web site and the excellent response by Mike#95, I took the engine apart and noticed very little or no lube. After some lube & back together locomotive runs better. My concern is that after running 1/4 speed a growl occurs for a couple of laps (small network), then goes away, and then back again. Is this normal? Your advise would be appreciated. Should I live with it? Or did I make a mistake not staying with Kato!
Thanks,
gpr45