Proto-lanced Pennsy: The West Slope

[sizemore]

I managed to run some trains last night. Both DC and DCC and sound. No steam yet. I ran a Kato PA and a BLI PA, and a Kato NW2, and everything shorted out on most of the main line turnouts. I think the frogs are powered.
I don't know much about wiring, but there are switch machines under these. Maybe Ed or someone will come over this week and we can dig in a little further.

As always, let me have it, asshats! Tell me how you really feel!

This drove me batshit crazy trying to run this through my head last night. I think you need to reverse the polarity, only explanation that would work.

The S.

[chicken45]

This drove me batshit crazy trying to run this through my head last night. I think you need to reverse the polarity, only explanation that would work.

The S.

The Thirsty Modelers are coming over for a work session tomorrow. The collective asshatery braintrust will inform and solve!
I think all the switch machines are there. One may have been removed to accommodate a the frame that it now has. I'm missing one of the switch actuators and a few wood end caps are broken. Where could I get exact replacements, if I may ask?

[davefoxx]

I managed to run some trains last night. Both DC and DCC and sound. No steam yet. I ran a Kato PA and a BLI PA, and a Kato NW2, and everything shorted out on most of the main line turnouts. I think the frogs are powered.

As always, let me have it, asshats! Tell me how you really feel!

I recommend an inverse tachyon pulse.

DFF

[chicken45]

I recommend an inverse tachyon pulse.

DFF

I can't believe you just dropped an "All Good Things..." on this thread.
You NERD. I love you.

[OldEastRR]

Too bad you don't know who built the thing. Otherwise you could get the answer about the frogs. 

So tell me, all you "oldtimer regulars" on TRW all live at most about an hour away from each other*? And that's by commuter train?

*except Dave V.

[davefoxx]

I can't believe you just dropped an "All Good Things..." on this thread.
You NERD. I love you.

[chicken45]

Too bad you don't know who built the thing. Otherwise you could get the answer about the frogs. 

So tell me, all you "oldtimer regulars" on TRW all live at most about an hour away from each other*? And that's by commuter train?

*except Dave V.

There's a good showing down here.

[Dave V]

Too bad you don't know who built the thing. Otherwise you could get the answer about the frogs. 

So tell me, all you "oldtimer regulars" on TRW all live at most about an hour away from each other*? And that's by commuter train?

*except Dave V.

I used to live closer.  I first met some of these guys when I was working on my PhD in North Carolina.  Then the Air Force moved me to Nebraska.  Then the Florida panhandle.  Then to Colorado.  Somehow I've avoided having a Pentagram tour...whose only plus would be to be planted in the center of TRW a$$hat country.

[sizemore]

The Thirsty Modelers are coming over for a work session tomorrow. The collective asshatery braintrust will inform and solve!
I think all the switch machines are there. One may have been removed to accommodate a the frame that it now has. I'm missing one of the switch actuators and a few wood end caps are broken. Where could I get exact replacements, if I may ask?

It has to be the polarity if the Blue Point Controls are still there. Did you at least flip the leads at the command station for Rail A/B? The Blue-Points are wired as shown at this link: https://ppw-aline.com/collections/blue-point-manual-turnout-controller

You can get new knobs for the turnout controls from anyone that carries New Rail Products or just goto any hardware store of craft store. From New Rail: https://ppw-aline.com/collections/flex-link/products/40053-wood-knobs-fasteners-6-pkg

The S.

[chicken45]

It has to be the polarity if the Blue Point Controls are still there. Did you at least flip the leads at the command station for Rail A/B? The Blue-Points are wired as shown at this link: https://ppw-aline.com/collections/blue-point-manual-turnout-controller

You can get new knobs for the turnout controls from anyone that carries New Rail Products or just goto any hardware store of craft store. From New Rail: https://ppw-aline.com/collections/flex-link/products/40053-wood-knobs-fasteners-6-pkg

The S.

So, my the issue with the turnouts is resolved. I'm an idiot who doesn't know anything about anything. But that's ok. a few of the turnout rods came out of the hole in the tie and I guess those points have a lot to do with power, so if I run a switch, it shorts. That's what was going on here.

I'm super excited.

[sizemore]

So, my the issue with the turnouts is resolved. I'm an idiot who doesn't know anything about anything. But that's ok. a few of the turnout rods came out of the hole in the tie and I guess those points have a lot to do with power, so if I run a switch, it shorts. That's what was going on here.

I'm super excited.

The rods do not control power, they just allow the points to be thrown so you dont pick a switch. And short.

You should be able to lift the "tie" and slip it over brass rod without much fuss or worry of breaking the switch.

The S.

[chicken45]

The rods do not control power, they just allow the points to be thrown so you dont pick a switch. And short.

You should be able to lift the "tie" and slip it over brass rod without much fuss or worry of breaking the switch.

The S.

Yes sir! We are golden!

[chicken45]

I was researching Portage, PA today and think that's the answer. I'll post some pics of prototype scenes tomorrow. Ed and I brainstormed a bit while Ryan ran the shop vac and cleaned up several hundred ants, professionally dressed (Ryan, not the ants).

Next challenge was installing these switch machines. We weren't successful. The machine was removed when the frame was added but for some reason, we can't get it to throw properly.

Here's the offending machine.

[sizemore]

The bolt parallel to the rod should go through the hole in the angular metal plate, securing the black clip to said plate.  The red sheath needs to be stationary to facilitate the inner throw rod. Check for the push/pull to validate its throwing the Blue Point Control.

If it's throwing the Blue Point Control then you only need to adjust the brass rod that runs to the turnout.

In looking at the brass throw rod it's not going through the hole in the tie. The brass throw rod also looks like it has been bent, it should remain perfectly straight. To adjust the throw, you shift the pivot vertically on the side of the Blue Point Control.

HTH,
The S.

[chicken45]

The bolt parallel to the rod should go through the hole in the angular metal plate, securing the black clip to said plate.  The red sheath needs to be stationary to facilitate the inner throw rod. Check for the push/pull to validate its throwing the Blue Point Control.

If it's throwing the Blue Point Control then you only need to adjust the brass rod that runs to the turnout.

In looking at the brass throw rod it's not going through the hole in the tie. The brass throw rod also looks like it has been bent, it should remain perfectly straight. To adjust the throw, you shift the pivot vertically on the side of the Blue Point Control.

HTH,
The S.

We detatched those red throw cables just to get them out of the way. We have been throwing the blue point manually by moving the switch with our fingers. It snaps and moves, but the turnout wiggles but does not actually move the points one way or the other.
The rod popped out of the hole when I took the pic at the end of the night. Ed was bending the rod around a bit to see if it would help.
I'm in Locust Point. You're should totally stop over some time!