Confirmed: MT1015 works on new Atlas PS-1 Boxcars

[MichaelWinicki]

Nice analysis of the new Atlas PS1 peteski.  Well done!


I agree about the storage box.   Being so much larger than other Atlas/MT boxes creates storage issues.   I would hope that they go back to a regular sized case.

[Sokramiketes]

Here is a photo comparing the wheels:



Seems that Atlas wheel has a bigger rim.  IMO, thinner rim (FVM) looks more realistic.  Atlas wheels have slightly wider thread and deeper flange.

Do you have a wide tread FVM wheel to compare?

[MichaelWinicki]

I like the new Atlas metal wheelsets.

It reaches a point of diminishing returns when the wheel tread is simply too narrow and/or the flange not deep enough.

I've tried the super-narrow tread wheelsets and the results were poor.  I see one company has re-engineered their wheelsets to make the wheel tread a little wider.

I had problems with the new Atlas wheelsets and one Atlas #10 switch, because a point was sitting too low.  I shimmed up the point and all is well.

[VonRyan]

Body-mounts are far more reliable that truck-mounts, you can run longer trains with body-mounted equipment, and the new Atlas trucks/wheels are better than MTL trucks/wheels.  These are outstanding models.  Obviously if you prefer truck-mounts to body-mounts for your layout, it's your choice.  But don't propagate the false premise that truck-mounts are superior to body-mounts.

I'm not propagating anything false.

-Cody F.

[wm3798]

Careful, Cody.  You'll make Bryan get out a colorful pie chart to prove you wrong...

But seriously folks... When everything is installed properly, body mounts do make operations a lot smoother.  Problems occur when the coupler height is sloppy, installation is poorly done causing centering to stick or wobble too much, etc.  As stated previously, curves shouldn't be too sharp, and trackwork should be nice and level to keep body mounts at their best.

Really, it's a matter of to each his own.  I've got a mix, and this rarely ruins my weekend.  Some people like to be finicky for the sake of being finicky.  Some folks spend more time fussing about how their rolling stock looks or is equipped than they do actually running it, and some people buy a finely tuned top of the line sound system, then install it in a convertible.

That said, I wouldn't bother going through the work of taking off the body mounts.  Get one, try it, and if it makes you crazy, don't buy any more.
Lee

[MichaelWinicki]

I'm not as fixated on body-mounted my couplers.  Yes, body mounts are prototypically correct, but for most cars when looking at the end of the car, I don't see a lot of difference between the two.

Now, that doesn't mean I won't ever body mount all my couplers, because I'll probably make the attempt but at this point it's not a pressing issue.  On my pike, both work equally well.   Body mounts probably represent 25% of my overall car fleet as of today.

What I'm focusing on are cars that ride too high, have roof-walks that are too thick or stirrups that are broken or are too thick.  I notice those issues more readily than the body mount/truck mount thing.

 

[conrail98]

As stated previously, curves shouldn't be too sharp, and trackwork should be nice and level to keep body mounts at their best.

How were the body mounts related to your operations within the helix? Did you have problems with them there?

Phil

[VonRyan]

Get one, try it, and if it makes you crazy, don't buy any more.
Lee

Well as is, if I get one it is going to be because someone is selling them dirt cheap or second-hand (meaning cheap). I'll probably get a buffalo creek one because it has a nice logo. As to if it is correct for PRR/PRSL in SJ during the 1940s to early 50s (as late as 1955), I have no clue, but ah-well.

-Cody F.

[wm3798]

How were the body mounts related to your operations within the helix? Did you have problems with them there?

Phil

Not to any significant degree.  Coming down the uber tight helix on the Thomas Sub was best with everything the same.  But throwing a single truck mount in with a bunch of body mounts wasn't a problem.
I also limited train length to 12 cars coming down to add a pound of operational spice, while at the same time adding an ounce prevention.

The biggest challenge is the typical model railroady feature of switching on curve.  With the truck mount centered on the track, and the body mount centered on the car, that's always a problem.
Lee

[peteski]

Do you have a wide tread FVM wheel to compare?

Nope. But I do have the FVM Hiawatha. It's wheels are wider with deeper flanges than the standard FVM wheels, but I'm not sure of those are the same as the FVM wide-thread wheels they sell.

[conrail98]

Not to any significant degree.  Coming down the uber tight helix on the Thomas Sub was best with everything the same.  But throwing a single truck mount in with a bunch of body mounts wasn't a problem.
I also limited train length to 12 cars coming down to add a pound of operational spice, while at the same time adding an ounce prevention.

The biggest challenge is the typical model railroady feature of switching on curve.  With the truck mount centered on the track, and the body mount centered on the car, that's always a problem.
Lee

Thanks Lee. I'm trying to keep all my switching on straights and the helix radii 18" up and 16.5" down and have a mix of both so wanted to get a feel of your experience,

Phil

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Some people like to be finicky for the sake of being finicky. 

This is my favorite quote this year.

[BN1970]

Using a digital vernier calliper I made some measurements of the metal wheel which comes with the new Atlas PS1 boxcar.  Please keep in mind given the accuracy of me and that N-Scale wheels are small with curved surfaces, my measurements are approximate for a baseline comparison.  And yes these new Atlas wheel sets will work just fine in Micro Trains trucks.

                                                        Axel Length          Tread Diameter    Flange Diameter    Wheel Width
Atlas PS1 Metal Wheel                        0.538"                 0.205"               0.242"                   0.066"

FV 50' Ribbed Boxcar Metal Wheel       0.538"                 0.204"               0.235"                   0.067"

FV Wide Wheels Metal                        0.537"                  0.205"               0.255"                  0.074"

FV Proto Wheels Metal                        0.539"                 0.204"               0.234"                  0.059"

MT Standard Delrin                             0.535"                0.209"                0.252"                  0.067"

MT Low Profile Delrin                          0.534"                0.205"                 0.240"                 0.065"

MT Pizza Cutter Delrin                        0.536"                 0.205"                0.273"                 0.075"

My take on these numbers is that N-Scale wheels are becoming finer.  But it also appears the manufactures have realized that they need to have a semi scale wheel verses a fine scale wheel on their products.  I would call the new Atlas PS1 wheel, the current Micro Train Standard wheel and the wheel set found on Fox Valley's new Milw 50' Rib sided boxcar as Semi Scale wheels. I think this is a good trend for N-Scale. --Brian

[wazzou]

A friend, Brian Morgan (BN1970) asked me to upload a couple of photo illustrations he thought were pertinent to this thread.
I think this is a nice comparison.