Best Dullcote for N scale

[Mark5]

Ok, this is a two part question (I'm an airbrush noob) ...

For those that airbrush, do you also airbrush the "dullcote" as "final" finish?

For N scale "dullcote", obviously you'd want a finer finish than you'd need for HO or larger scales - am I thinking correctly here?

Mark

[Kisatchie]

For those that airbrush, do you also airbrush the "dullcote" as "final" finish?

For N scale "dullcote", obviously you'd want a finer finish than you'd need for HO or larger scales - am I thinking correctly here?

You can buy Dullcote concentrate in jars. I always thinned it 50-50 with Floquil solvent based thinner when airbrushing.

As far as I know, Dullcote is "one size fits all." There is no flat finish specially made for N scale.



Hmm... nothing funny
tonight. I'm going out
drinking...

[Chris333]

Dullcote is clear so I don't think you need "N scale Dullcote".

I bought like 20 rattle cans of it a while back and I just blast everything with 2-3 coats. When it dries to can't see anything thickness. At least I can't.

[peteski]

As you mentioned, "Dullcote" is a clear flat lacquer. It is not scale-specific. It (along with other flat finished I tried) goes on very thin so it will not obscure small details (even in T scale). 

I use a blend of Dull and Gloss cote and lacquer thinner for a satin finish which IMO looks better than the flat finish. I always use airbrush with that mixture as I specifically made it for airbrushing.

[wazzou]

I've been using the Testor's Model Master Lusterless Flat rattle cans.
I think it has better nozzles that more finely atomize the spray?  The regular cans can be a little more droppy.

[Mark5]

Thanks, will try it on a few practice shells.

Mark

[Bendtracker1]

I've been using the Testor's Model Master Lusterless Flat rattle cans.
I think it has better nozzles that more finely atomize the spray?  The regular cans can be a little more droppy.

Mark, Have to agree with Wazzou.
The Model Masters gives a far superior finish as opposed to Dull Coat.  Model Masters has a better pigment which gives a flatter finish and it will not yellow over time like Dull Coat can.
You can buy it in the smaller bottles and can cut it with thinner for your air brush.  They also have a Gloss and Simi-Gloss finish.

[robert3985]

Good advice on this thread.

I'd like to add that a flat (lusterless) finish is not always prototypically correct, no matter what the noobs on the Model Railroader Magazine staff say.    Sure, some prototype finishes become flat, but usually only after they've been out in the weather for a while and have accumulated enough dust, soot, grime and oxidation to make them lusterless.

Many serious modelers on this forum are preferring to paint their models glossy, then weather them, which leads to a more prototypical blend of dirty, flat surfaces combined with shiny surfaces on a particular model...just like most prototypes' would be after a while in-service.

As is also the trend, weathering cars and engines to a photo of a specific prototype is also gaining popularity, which supports the idea of different surface textures (shiny, semi-gloss, flat) for different areas on a single model.

One fact stands clear however, and that is the fact that a car or engine fresh out of the paintshop, would never be flat...it would always be shiny.  So, unweathered cars and engines will always look more prototypical if they are shiny, excluding any non-slip/anti-glare panels your prototype may have.

Here's a custom detailed and painted Key Big Boy, that was first painted glossy Engine Black (Scalecoat), then the dull color of the smokebox (SP Lettering Gray-Floquil) was added, then weathered lightly with flat Floquil paints (Dust, Grimy Black, Dirt, Rust, etc.).  As per the prototype, areas on it are dirty and areas on it are clean as well as flat, less glossy and full glossy.


So...blasting with a can of Dullcote is handy, but for a more precise application, use the airbrush.

[Chris333]

Mark, Have to agree with Wazzou.
The Model Masters gives a far superior finish as opposed to Dull Coat.  Model Masters has a better pigment which gives a flatter finish and it will not yellow over time like Dull Coat can.
You can buy it in the smaller bottles and can cut it with thinner for your air brush.  They also have a Gloss and Simi-Gloss finish.

Can we get Tony to check on those color samples? 

[robert3985]

Can we get Tony to check on those color samples? 

   

[peteski]

I haven't bought any of the Model Master clear lacquers mentioned here (to give them my "sniff test") but I have a *VERY* strong suspicion that all of those products are one and the same lacquer.  Why would Testors use a different formula for the Model Master brand?  It is so much easier to just put the stuff in a different bottle.

I also have not noticed any Dull or Gloss cote yellowing over the years, but I did notice yellowing of standard Testors clear enamel from a spray can.

[robert3985]

I haven't bought any of the Model Master clear lacquers mentioned here (to give them my "sniff test") but I have a *VERY* strong suspicion that all of those products are one and the same lacquer.  Why would Testors use a different formula for the Model Master brand?  It is so much easier to just put the stuff in a different bottle.

I also have not noticed any Dull or Gloss cote yellowing over the years, but I did notice yellowing of standard Testors clear enamel from a spray can.

That's interesting.  I have also never noticed any "yellowing" of Dullcoted painted surfaces either, which for me would be over model airplanes I put together years and years ago with white insignias and lettering.  The whites still look brilliant white to me, but I don't have any equivalents that are not Dullcoted to act as a control.

Methinks it's a spurious rumor, or perhaps caused by spraying Dullcote (an enamel) over a lacquer based paint.

[Dave Schneider]

How do we calibrate our monitors for this? 
My Mac Air has a shiny screen, but my Dell has more of a satin finish. Hmmm....

Best wishes, Dave

[peteski]

That's interesting.  I have also never noticed any "yellowing" of Dullcoted painted surfaces either, which for me would be over model airplanes I put together years and years ago with white insignias and lettering.  The whites still look brilliant white to me, but I don't have any equivalents that are not Dullcoted to act as a control.

Methinks it's a spurious rumor, or perhaps caused by spraying Dullcote (an enamel) over a lacquer based paint.

So we are in agreement, except one thing: Dull and Gloss cotes are lacquers, not enamels. But they must use a solvent which is mild enough not to affect enamels (if it is used over enamels).  The other Testors clear (which yellows) is in their enamels line.

[mcjaco]

I've actually found the Model Masters Flat to not be all that flat.