Solder and supplies for turnout construction

[Scottl]

I received my package from proto87 with those beautiful frog, point and detail parts.  Can't wait to assemble my first #8 turnout. 

I've been reading others describe what they use in general terms, but when I went to the hardware store to buy flux, I could not find anything other than plumbing flux in both soluble and petroleum versions.  What recommendations do folks here have for the type of solder and flux for this type of work?  I have some thin Pb-Sn rosin core solder on hand that I would like to use...

[M.C. Fujiwara]

I like this H & N Superior No. 30 Supersafe flux
http://www.ccis.com/home/hn/page2.html
Organic, no strong acids, works great.
I've gone through less than 1/2 of an 8 oz. bottle over the last 4 years.

[Scottl]

Thanks, I'll see if I can find a Canadian source (mail order chemicals is always an issue...).  What type of solder do you use?

[DKS]

Although acid paste is preferred by a number of modelers here, my preference has always been for liquid acid flux. Each has its advantages: the paste stays put for control when needed, particularly for electronics, while the liquid flows into every nook and crannie for deep, effective and fast soldering of parts. You can get a small bottle of Stay Clean from Micro Mark (it includes a coil of silver solder): http://www.micromark.com/stay-brite-silver-solder-and-flux-1and2-oz-each,7556.html. It may not seem like much, but a little goes a long way; one of these bottles has lasted me a couple of years.

[Ian MacMillan]

I really like "Ruby Fluid" liquid flux. Works awesome.

[Scottl]

Thanks for both suggestions.  Looking for Canadian sources for these products. 

[parkrrrr]

When looking for a source of flux, look at stained glass suppliers, too. I can get a pint of Ruby Fluid from my "local" stained glass store (delphiglass.com) for five bucks. That'll last you several lifetimes.

[Scottl]

At Michael's, perhaps?  We have one of those in this little town 

[Sokramiketes]

Although acid paste is preferred by a number of modelers here, my preference has always been for liquid acid flux. Each has its advantages: the paste stays put for control when needed, particularly for electronics, while the liquid flows into every nook and crannie for deep, effective and fast soldering of parts. You can get a small bottle of Stay Clean from Micro Mark (it includes a coil of silver solder): http://www.micromark.com/stay-brite-silver-solder-and-flux-1and2-oz-each,7556.html. It may not seem like much, but a little goes a long way; one of these bottles has lasted me a couple of years.

Have you used the paste?  It liquifies instantly with heat and flows just as well.  Personally I think it's easier to apply.

[DKS]

When looking for a source of flux, look at stained glass suppliers, too. I can get a pint of Ruby Fluid from my "local" stained glass store (delphiglass.com) for five bucks. That'll last you several lifetimes.

I'm not certain, but I believe flux made for stained glass work is more dilute than other fluxes.

Have you used the paste?  It liquifies instantly with heat and flows just as well.  Personally I think it's easier to apply.

Yes, I have. I just generally like using the liquid better, especially for larger assembly projects, e.g. girder bridges with 6-8 inch long joints. I just swipe the length of it with the liquid and have at it, while the paste can get a bit tedious to apply.

[robert3985]

I like this H & N Superior No. 30 Supersafe flux
http://www.ccis.com/home/hn/page2.html
Organic, no strong acids, works great.
I've gone through less than 1/2 of an 8 oz. bottle over the last 4 years.

Like M.C., I much prefer Supersafe flux over everything else when I'm soldering rail to PCB ties or brass pieces together for my models.  It will transform you into an expert solderer and the heat generated from your iron neutralizes the minor amount of acid in it.  I have NEVER had a turnout corrode (or any other solder joint) since I've been using Supersafe No. 30 gel flux (over 25 years now). 

I also use the solid core 4% silver, 96% tin solder available on the "solder" page of the H&N Electronics website, and I am totally satisfied with it for general use such as turnouts and simple brass parts.

Remember to get a couple of dispensing bottles when you place your order.

[BCR 570]

Thanks for both suggestions.  Looking for Canadian sources for these products.

Hard to beat the thin solder and acid flux from Fast Tracks, which is a Canadian company.


Tim

[robert3985]

Hard to beat the thin solder and acid flux from Fast Tracks, which is a Canadian company.


Tim

Canadian or not, Supersafe beats it...easily. Acid flux in my experience has shown itself to be trouble a while down the road if it's not completely neutralized and washed away, which is a mite difficult to do if you do ANY soldering in place on your layout.

But, that's just me and my 30+ years of experience hand-building hundreds of turnouts and miles (scale) of hand-laid track speaking.  Go ahead and use acid flux and pay the price later.  Better Supersafe than sorry.

[DKS]

But, that's just me and my 30+ years of experience hand-building hundreds of turnouts and miles (scale) of hand-laid track speaking.  Go ahead and use acid flux and pay the price later.  Better Supersafe than sorry.

I've been soldering over 40 years, switched to acid flux around 30 years ago. I've never had any trouble with it. Liquid acid can be washed away with plain water; often I'll use an alcohol chaser just to be extra safe. I will note that what little trouble I've had has been when using paste. I suppose it could be just dumb luck...

Right. I had to get up in the morning at ten o'clock at night half an hour before I went to bed, drink a cup of sulphuric acid, work twenty-nine hours a day down mill, and pay mill owner for permission to come to work, and when we got home, our Dad and our mother would kill us and dance about on our graves singing Hallelujah. And you try and tell the young people of today that... they won't believe you.

[parkrrrr]

I'm not certain, but I believe flux made for stained glass work is more dilute than other fluxes.

Could be. It's not like they'd put that kind of information on the bottle, though maybe an MSDS would say. Even so, it seems to do the job. But then, if I've never used a "proper" flux I might not know how much easier my life could be, eh?

On the other hand, I've already got the stained glass flux lying around for the other hobby, so may as well use it.