Author Topic: Etching advice  (Read 1749 times)

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unittrain

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Etching advice
« on: November 03, 2012, 05:05:46 PM »
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I'm at a point in scratchbuilding a truss bridge and need to fabricate the main chords (upper, lower and endposts) I'm using .005 brass sheet. I tried shearing the parts by printing out the drawings to size and taping it to the brass to cut along the lines but the results are not too good. So I was figuring I have to etch. I have photo resist, ferric chloride and a laminator I would just need to get the film and developer. But I also have several sheets of press n peel blue this would be the easier method of the two. Which method would be best? The concern I have with the press n peel is lining up the art work for double sided etching :scared: Would I have to double side etch .005 brass sheet? or could I place the artwork on one side and coat the other side with a resistive background? Thanks for the help!

TiVoPrince

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Re: Etching advice
« Reply #1 on: November 03, 2012, 05:34:29 PM »
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Not  
that I am an expert but if the prints were larger than the brass, having registration marks to aid in alignment would help...
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peteski

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Re: Etching advice
« Reply #2 on: November 04, 2012, 01:10:48 AM »
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I've been home-etching "stuff" for over 30 years.  I have done electronic circuit boards, brass and nickel-silver (both single and double side). My latest project was very small. Side mirrors for a N scale FedEx Dodge Sprinter van.


Those were single-side etched out of 0.005" brass sheet.  I use ferric-chloride etchant but even with warming it up to about 100 deg. F it still took quite along time (IIRC, couple of hours).  I use spray-on photo resist but some day I like to try the photo resist film and a laminator.  On single-sided sheets I spray a generic primer to protect the metal.

I draw my artwork in Corel Draw. In the past I used to get it printed on a phototypesetter as a black artwork on clear film. Nowadays on my last couple of projects I printed my artwork on transparency using my Alps printer.  There are some tricks involved to get it opaque enough and the artwork is fragile, but it works.

I never used a peel-n-stick film and I suspect that alignment would be problematic for double-sided etching.  I make my double-sided artwork printout larger than the sheet to be etched and I print targets on both artworks (outside of the etched sheet). Then I sandwich the metal sheet (coated on both sides with photo resist) between the artwork transparencies (aligning the targets).  Then I sandwich that sandwich between 2 sheets of glass, clamping them with "bulldog" spring paper clips.  Geez, all those sandwiches make me hungry!  :D I then expose each side to UV light and then develop the metal sheet.

When etching double sided piece, make sure to put some spacers under the piece so that it doesn't rest on the bottom (that will cause the bottom not to etch evenly).

In your case I think that single-sided etching will work (unless you want to add some relief-etched texture to your parts).  But then the parts will be only 0.0025" thick with the details being 0.005".  In a single sided etching there will also be undercutting around each etched opening which will be close to the thickness of the etched part.

But etching stuff is a pain in the  :ashat: !  With professional etching services becoming quite affordable (and your pieces being relatively large), have you considered sending your artwork to be etched by a industrial etcher like http://www.ppdltd.com ? When I will have a larger project (larger than N scale side view mirrors) I will seriously consider using them for the job (especially since they accept Corel Draw artwork).
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BCR751

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Re: Etching advice
« Reply #3 on: November 04, 2012, 10:56:53 AM »
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Are there any good etching firms in North America?

Doug

Scottl

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Re: Etching advice
« Reply #4 on: November 04, 2012, 11:53:05 AM »
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I've been planning a new bridge project and have been weighing fabricating the beams with the bracework from styrene, but etching is very attractive.   I'm a little surprised how little there is already available for beams in nscale.  Gold Medal Models makes the W and X bracing, but I was thinking of making up beams that would be folded up and include both braces and rivet detail.   PPD looks like the way to go, especially given how many replicates will be involved, and I have Coreldraw to use as well.  I just need some time to try drawing them up.

Scottl

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Re: Etching advice
« Reply #5 on: November 04, 2012, 02:19:05 PM »
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Here is something I put together in an hour on Coreldraw.  It is meant to be a 28" beam for a bridge I am scoping out right now.  This is very early in the go, but it was fun to do and pretty easy.  I put four tabs on the edge to ease construction, but I have to admit I don't know how well that will work.  PPD will do a sheet of this type of work for a modest cost.



I'll keep working on this, putting things on appropriate layers.  I might be able to do most of my bridge this way.

edit:  typo fixed
« Last Edit: November 04, 2012, 02:47:47 PM by Scottl »

unittrain

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Re: Etching advice
« Reply #6 on: November 04, 2012, 03:12:17 PM »
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I'll give etching a go I'll use the press n peel, I got the inner web members done and they look really good with the GMM bracing I used K&S 1/32" x 1/8" and 1/32" x 3/32" flat bar for the side plates. Here is a picture of the bridge I'm building http://www.flickr.com/photos/fan-t/5527263767/in/photostream/page2/  it is unique from most truss bridges in that the track support is carried below the truss. The track below is the Conrail now NS former pennsy Cleveland Pittsburgh line, there is another bridge hidden by the trees which is a 100' deck plate. This bridge stood abandoned from 1968 - 1994 when it was taken down. Thanks for the help, I will try single side etching first.

Scottl

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Re: Etching advice
« Reply #7 on: November 04, 2012, 03:18:20 PM »
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Nice looking bridge, it will be a signature piece on your layout done up in brass.