Kato GS-4 drive gear slippage help needed

[sizemore]

I guess pins in the collar are possible....

I am not yet ready to declare victory.
Kato Kelley said that red loc-tite did not hold
when they tried it.
so I am giving the axle a little while to cure.

I have done this repair before and it did hold.
I also have done this to a b-mann northern.
that leads me to think this one will hold.

another item of note is that red loc-tite can be tricky
in that I have had it fail to hold and
had to re-do the joint. I just reapplied the loc-tite with success.
I have no real ideas for the different outcomes.

this fix requires a lathe.
lets see if it does hold in service before going into
repair specifics.

victor

A flat spot on the axle and use set screws would shore that up. 

The S.

[victor miranda]

guys,
I am going to declare victory.
it pulls 30 cars and it will slip if I hold the train.
The axle didn't break free. 
I quartered it by eye .... three of the axles are loose, so If I missed, I can compensate.

fodder for another day.

he first time I did this I had a bit of tubing that was very near 2.5 mm
but I could not find that .   I ordered some 2.5mm brass outside diameter for the rest of the axles

the collars are a light press fit .
I did not loc-tite them and the axle was lightly sanded.
I put the loctite in the hole and on the axle.  I was not generous,
I used just enough to be sure all parts were buttered.
there was time to adjust the quartering after I pressed the axles together.

the collars are why this works, the loc-tite has something to press against.

victor

[up1950s]

I have always quartered by eye in the past , but I am trying this simple method I thought up . Probable been used by others , but I never say it . A .025 PB wire in bent on the end to stick into the crank pin hole , then aligned over the axle center and centered to the other side by a bit point in the driver disk web design . I then trued and gauged the wheels in a close to quarter position . I then Krazy glue both ends of the wire . We all know we can break away the Krazy glue off of metal and engineering plastic , even when we don't want to . I then took a 2x2 block of pre-determined to be square enough , and sanded a corner off . That allowed the driver whiskers to touch the block closer in to the driver tread . I then trued and gauged the wheels in a close to quarter position . Then I placed the set on the block making sure both whiskers were flat against the block their whole length ( without bending ) I snuck some green Lok-tite where the axle meets the collared gear hub . I let that dry and re-applied more green Lok-tite , and freed any bearing resistance that some green Loc-tite may have caused from the first application . I then drilled through holes and pinned with a good pre-soaking of green Loc-tite . I also re-freed the bearing from the second application of green Loc-tite . After that dried a day I ground down the pin overage to the collar , and applied another coat of green Loc-tite , and addressed any bearing freeze again . When that all dried another day I addressed the bearing again and made sure it was good to go . Lastly I removed the quartering whiskers carefully as I intend to reuse them on the other 3 drivers once my rods and tubes come in the mail . The good thing about this is even if the drivers are a blond one out of quarter , they all are , and thus mater not . Time will tell .

[up1950s]

As of 10 minutes ago I am no longer going to try to make the FEF-1 powered . Though I have cured the wheel to axle slip , and the bushing to axle slip , and the motor to worm slip , the lack of exact alignment of all those cures causes problems . To boot the main driver gear has wear in one place that causes the worm to slip . I have worked on it almost every day for months on and off . I  have come up with a decent way to quarter and align multi part axles while the glue dries ( below ) . I have learned a lot in this given up process . I have a new GS-4 and it's so darn nice I don't want to cannibalize from it . I need to move on , but before I do I need to finish this as a dummy . I will make it a free wheeler dummy that can be a roundhouse queen being pushed to an fro by a goat , or used as a double header with a headlight . I am not going to blame Kato for using too small diameter axle , drive shaft , worm shaft , or the use of plastic gears , and traction tires that are too soft . But if they address those issues on future models of any type they may get me to buy again . I live and learn , will they ? 







   

[superturbine]

I for one am sad to see the great work you did not shine with all it's glory. My own take on it is who really cares about the pristine GS4.... she has plenty of sisters.  Your FEF-1 only has 4 in her class. 

[up1950s]

I for one am sad to see the great work you did not shine with all it's glory. My own take on it is who really cares about the pristine GS4.... she has plenty of sisters.  Your FEF-1 only has 4 in her class.

But mine will be a one of a kind . How many dummy FEF-1's do you know of . Sides , I can always revisit the problem child as nothing gets undone except that which can be popped back in easilyish .

I for one am sad to see the great work you did not shine with all it's glory. My own take on it is who really cares about the pristine GS4.... she has plenty of sisters.  Your FEF-1 only has 4 in her class.

But mine will be a one of a kind . How many dummy FEF-1's do you know of . Sides , I can always revisit the problem child as nothing gets undone except that which can be popped back in easilyish .

[wazzou]

So good, it was worth saying twice, eh Richie? 

[up1950s]

So good, it was worth saying twice, eh Richie? 

I just wanted to finish the slippage thread . Then give the steam thread some air time . Once these threads split up forever the double post will make more sense , at least to me .