Stubborn Kato paint- how to remove?

[Scottl]

I started converting a Kato SD70ace to a SD70M-2 using the Train-worx etched detail set.  I started with a painted unit and have had difficulty removing the large "CSX" herald on the long hood.  My practice has been to soak the shell in 99% isopropanol and scrub it lightly with an old toothbrush.  This normally takes the lettering and (eventually) the base paint from Kato shells.  In this case, the alcohol took off the lettering on the cab as per normal, but none of lettering and heralds will come off on the hood.  I have soaked it for a long time and even some of the base coat is coming off, but the herald won't budge.

Looking closely at the large CSX herald, it is a rather thick painted surface and under good light you can see a horizontal texture to it.  I carefully removed a little of the yellow with some sandpaper and it exposed a white undercoat for the herald- maybe this is needed to make the yellow opaque on the dark blue background?

Anyway, does anyone have any suggestions?  It's not clear to me why the paint would differ between different parts of the same locomotive.  A search here took me to some threads with  complaining about Kato SD-40-2 and nothing in the broader web.

Scott

[central.vermont]

I've known Kato paint to be some pretty tough stuff but this is a first I've heard of on the herald problem.
I also believe that most of their yellows have an undercoat of white just for the reason you mention. I would
suggest leaving it longer now that you have attacked the upper layer of yellow exposing the white.


But if you can't remove it you can always call Chuck at Feather River and order this. 
Tell him you read it here and he might give you an  discount!!

Jon

[Scottl]

LOL, I've got the disassembly part down.  Even the little warning stickers on the long hood are resisting my efforts.  Usually, it is the base paint that takes a lot of work to remove.

I've considered painting over it, but I am worried it is so thick it will show through...

[Philip H]

If you can find some Chameleon paint stripped in a LHS then get it and apply according to its instructions. Seems to be the only stuff anyone finds will work on Kato shells, but the company appears to be out of business.

[Ian MacMillan]

If you can find some Chameleon paint stripped in a LHS then get it and apply according to its instructions. Seems to be the only stuff anyone finds will work on Kato shells, but the company appears to be out of business.

+1 On this. I have heard for some of the very difficult shells that Chameleon is the way to go.  But was it this or brake fluid that make Kato shells really brittle?

[Philip H]

Brake fluid I think

[Scottl]

OK, thanks.  I'll see if I can find some.  I think the LHS just closed and I can only get in for their Saturday hours 

[bill pearce]

As Homer Simpson would say, Ummmmmm, brake fluid. Never let any of that get within two zipcodes of your locomotives. I even worry driving home from the hobby shop. The best solution to your problem would be to blast it off. Find a friend with a North Coast booth or fill a badger air eraser with baking soda. Works every time. Use the air eraser outside, as it can be, well, messy.

[TiVoPrince]

Agreed 
air eraser is the best way to remove stubborn paint with baking soda or aluminum oxide.  I went 'all in' and invested in the media blast booth to keep the mess down.  Blasting leaves a great surface to paint on after a soak in warm water and a light toothbrush scrub.  Finger oils will cling tenaciously from this point so gloves are suggested when handling any parts prior to painting...

[LV LOU]

Brake fluid I think

Chameleon stripper contains the same alcohol as brake fluid..I used brake fluid for years,always did a good job,but I don't any more since nearly every shell I do these days can be stripped with 93% alcohol,Purple Power,or Simple green.Not really that familiar with Kato paint,unfortunately,since most of their current stuff is too new for me,AC44,ETC..

[u18b]

I can confirm the original poster.

CSX herald was THICK on my CSX dark future GEVO.  I was astounded how thick.

91% alcohol did virtually nothing.

Only way I got it off was by sandblasting it with baking soda.

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-eraser-kit-99636.html

Here is my finished product.

[Scottl]

I have not used an air eraser before.  Will the baking soda damage the plastic?

[TiVoPrince]

Surface 
will be etched but not so deeply one coat of paint will not be smooth.  Any abrasive material has the potential to round off edges if over applied, just the nature of blowing an abrasive against something.  Hardness of baking soda and pressures we use there should be no huge risk of damage to plastic shells, unless you happen to fall asleep while erasing....

[Scottl]

Thanks.  I'll look at them tomorrow.  The eight hours in 99% isopropanol has done nothing...

[Bob Horn]

Scott, it took me 36 hrs to remove the UP flag from an ACe. 91% . Bob.