PENNSY!

[victor miranda]

a CC gs4 may have all you need....   

victor

[chessie system fan]

This is fine work Jason!  How did you make it?  Is it something you scratchbuilt or a casting of a brass shell?

I too am interested in how you made the casting.  I'm slowly scratchbuilding a PRR J1, and if I'm going to this much trouble I'd like to make more than one!

[superturbine]

Building a master boiler to make a copies of it in urethane is much easier than building a boiler to fit onto a mechanism.  In building the master you dont have to worry about brass tubing shorting out.  A copy of any boiler can be made.  If you need help let me know.  You must have a vacume pump and pressure pot capable of 60 psi

[towl1996]

WOW!!! Holy Cow! So gnarly. Just say when and the money will be in the mail. Any other Pennsy shells in the hopper? Thanks

[Lemosteam]

K. Jason.  I'm drooling.  I'd go old school and use two Minitrix k4 chassis to keep it inexpensive.  My heart couldn't stand cutting two Kato c55's up.  No matter what you still need two sets of cylinders and a gap between drivers 2 and 3 for them to fit.

Heart racing...  Brain churning...

You are an  hero.

[UP4-8-8-4]

Ernie,
I was under the impression from some things I read that the Pennsy did not own dome cars. Do you info about a PRR "Skydome" or are you hoping for a Milwaukee Road repaint?
Frank

   ROFL Frank !
I believe I was getting carried away with the Pennsy.
I ment the Milwaukee Road Skytop Observation resin molds.


Senior moment ----------------- (-;



Ernie

[mike_lawyer]

This is just some fantastic work.  I know Superturbine is also working on a brass frame for a 2-10-2 to use Kato Mikado wheels and valve gear.  I'm looking forward to that!

[delamaize]

Oh, I see how it is, I get the A4 about done and you have to make ANOTHER of my favorite steamers to keep me busy!

Looks awesome! Count me down as one, even if I have to design and build a mech myself!!!

[superturbine]

Oh, I see how it is, I get the A4 about done and you have to make ANOTHER of my favorite steamers to keep me busy!

Looks awesome! Count me down as one, even if I have to design and build a mech myself!!!

Sounds like Ive got your number!!  You've done a great job on your A4.   


Ps no grinding on this body........ It's a lot more work.

[kelticsylk]

Building a master boiler to make a copies of it in urethane is much easier than building a boiler to fit onto a mechanism.  In building the master you dont have to worry about brass tubing shorting out.  A copy of any boiler can be made.  If you need help let me know.  You must have a vacume pump and pressure pot capable of 60 psi

I think I understand what you are saying, but I've never seen it done. Would you consider a writing a tutorial or posting some photos of the process?

Frank Musick

[superturbine]

Here is a link for the company I use for my urethanes and silicon  They have all of the info you would need on there website for mold making


http://www.silpak.com/

[Nato]

        Ah ! Milwaukee Road "Skytop" Parlor Observation Cars. Very nicely done. Nate Goodman (Nato). Salt Lake,Utah.

[kelticsylk]

Here is a link for the company I use for my urethanes and silicon  They have all of the info you would need on there website for mold making


http://www.silpak.com/

Thanks...I'm checking it out.

[up1950s]

The speed at which you produce a shell of a different species is very fast . Do you have any minions ?

[mmagliaro]

(EDIT for typos)

To address some of the questions:

I made mine from two Con-Cor/Kato 4-6-4 chassis, each cut down to 2 drivers, because no such thing
as the GS-4 existed at the time.  I think a 4-8-4 with the teardrop drivers would be a better starting
point now.  You would have to get your hands on a second set of cylinders, however.  I don't know if I'd want
to use the Kato GS-4, however, with that complicated 4-piece frame.   It would be simpler to build this
out of the older 4-8-4.    The old 4-6-4 frame is nice to work on: split frame, good bearings, nice drivers.
You have to get two of them, cut them down, and then splice them together, so it requires care
to keep everything straight.

As for why I used two different motors, well, to be honest, it was because of physical space constraints. 
I couldn't get two 12mm diameter motors in there.  Where the boiler narrows toward the front, I needed a slimmer
motor.  But after a couple of years, the 10mm motor failed, and I was able to ream more chassis out, and put
an identical 12mm motor in the front.  It was never ideal with mismatched motors anyway.  The two motors
want to run at slightly different speeds.  Visually, you couldn't really tell, but one motor had to always be
"pushing" the other.  So with two 12mm motors, it runs better now.
I later got two matched coreless motors with gearheads and was planning an upgrade to that level, but never
got around to it.

As for using Trix K4 chassis, I would not do this because the spoked drivers are completely wrong and the drivers
are a big part of the look of the T1.  The 4-6-4 drivers aren't completely correct either, but they are a lot closer.

========
Oh... and GREAT JOB on that shell and tender!   
And don't underestimate that tender shell.  It's very hard to make, so having a casting is a huge help.