L&N somewhere in Eastern Kentucky

[davefoxx]

Oh, boy.  I've been there.  But, it looks like you're doing what I do.  Cut the turnout out short of the rail joiners, and then whittle back until you can drop in the new turnout.  Or, if you haven't soldered those rail joints, now you can just pull out the scrap rails and drop in the new turnout.  Good luck, and I hope you're back up and running in no time.

DFF

[C855B]

Started on the switch replacement project.....

This is just one of those photo opportunities to have a handful of track maintenance equipment surrounding the work area.

[LIRR]

Got the new switch (generously provided by Atlas) installed.....I was very pleasantly suprised. This took about 30-minutes from the time I made the first cut in the old rail to the new switch being in place, without disturbing the switch machine or disturbing the adjacent scenery!!


I also though it'd make a nice MOW photo-op, but I have no MOW equipment.

[Mark W]

Well this certainly sucks......

This happened to me just last night.


You can see that I fixed it via the "Point Rail Upgrade" method which leaves all the scenery in tact, rather than tear the whole switch out. 

I pulled out the old point rails and throwbar, being careful not to rip out/ruin the brass loop that the point rail fits into on the frog end of the rail (you can kind of see these on the left turnout in the pic below).  If you do ruin this part, no worry, just requires a few extra steps.

With the brass loops in tact, I formed a new point rail from scrap flex rail.  This can be done by hand, but I have the FastTrack's Jig, which is well worth the cost (if you plan to do more than about 6 point rails ever).
If the brass loops were ruined, cut the new point rail to extend all the way to the frog (see below).

For the short point rail, I slipped in the PCB tie throwbar and soldered everything as shown above.  For the longer point rail upgrade, you have to add a few more PCB ties as shown below, but this can still be done with minimal scenic disturbance.   For 7s and 10s, you can get away with short point rails being soldered to the old pivot tabs, but for #5's, I recommend doing the long point rail regardless.



I realize this is too late to help for now, but when it inevitable happen in the future (or as a good preventative care measure before any new turnouts are installed), get some PCB ties and spare rail.  The Point Rail Upgrade instantly makes the Atlas turnouts as reliable as a precision custom built turnout. 

[C855B]

Thanks for the reminder about this technique, Mark. I am certain that this type of fix is in my future.

And am I seeing things... or is it just that you hadn't yet gapped the PCB ties in the before/after pic?

[MichaelWinicki]

This happened to me just last night.

You can see that I fixed it via the "Point Rail Upgrade" method which leaves all the scenery in tact, rather than tear the whole switch out. 

I realize this is too late to help for now, but when it inevitable happen in the future (or as a good preventative care measure before any new turnouts are installed), get some PCB ties and spare rail.  The Point Rail Upgrade instantly makes the Atlas turnouts as reliable as a precision custom built turnout.

That's a gem of a tutorial Mark!

Thank you!

[MichaelWinicki]

This happened to me just last night.

Hey Mark, what's the method you use to remove ties from an in-place switch?

[LIRR]

Marks method never would have worked for me with this switch in this location. There's a 5" high hill between it and the end of the bench work. I got lucky. All 4 rail joints at the frog end of the switch were insulated joiners, not soldered. The point end was soldered but the rail joiners pulled right off with a little heat from a soldering iron. I shortened the new rail joiners to about 1/8" long and was able to push them back on the switch so I could drop the switch in place, then slide them on to the adjacent rails. Another drawback of Mark's method for me is I absolutely hate anything to do with soldering.....

[Mark W]

Not sure how tearing out the whole switch is any easier than just removing the throw bar and point rails.  Especially in a confined space, I'd imagine replacing the whole turnout, then re-ballasting would be way more difficult.  I can understand the hesitation for involving a skill you hate to use though; I'm the same way with paint.

In any case, I'd still suggest giving the ol' Point Rail Upgrade a try, not in the confined space, but on that easy to maneuver workbench.  It's absolutely worth every bit of frustration you put into it.

And am I seeing things... or is it just that you hadn't yet gapped the PCB ties in the before/after pic?

Er.. um.. yes.  Don't forget to gap the PCB Ties.  I definitely always remember, and totally never spend 1.5 hours with a multi-meter cursing mysterious shorts.   

Hey Mark, what's the method you use to remove ties from an in-place switch?

A fresh #11 blade and tweezers.  It is possible.

[LIRR]

It was easier in this case. I was ready to strip the foliage from the hillside restricting access if I had to. I wasn't looking forward to the switch removal tho....but once it occurred to me the old switch didn't have to be removed intact, it was a no brainier. I used a Dremel to cut all 6 rails back a bit from the joint, then yanked it out in pieces with long nose pliers. I don't attach swithes to the roadbed, they're held in place by adjacent rails. I pre-ballast switches with electrical tape on the underside. I only need to add ballast at the shoulders, that's not much effort. As I said, I was pleasantly suprised how unexpectedly quick and easy this change-out went. I don't think I'd be as lucky next time.

I'd certainly try your method in the future. I have hand laid switches in the past, so I can handle a soldering iron, it's just not my favorite thing to do, much like sand traps on the golf course-I try my best to avoid them. I think in a spot in amongst compact or crowded track work that's accessible, your way might make more sense.

[C855B]

.... I don't attach swithes to the roadbed, they're held in place by adjacent rails. I pre-ballast switches with electrical tape on the underside. ...

Excellent. I was considering a similar technique, and thank you for confirming it.

[John]

Hey Mark, what's the method you use to remove ties from an in-place switch?

I've used a drill bit on either side of the tie, then an xacto knife to chisel it out ..

[LIRR]

Starting another new project (of course this doesn't mean I've finished any of the other ongoing projects)...
I scratch built this engine house a few years back, custom built for the site and intended to hide the entrance to staging under the overpass in the background...




It nicely blocked the view of the end of the overpass mysteriously disappearing behind the building...







It's an effective view-block, but it no longer looks right to me for eastern Kentucky in the early 1970s. for You can see where I've already cannabalized the building and removed rooftop equipment...

[LIRR]

New one will be based on this one at M&K Junction in West Virginia....





Mocked it up.....

[Frisco Larry]

That photo of the engine house at M&K Jct looks like the old Magnuson Models engine house kit, always thought they just made it up.