Allegheny Eastern: Clean Slate

[kelticsylk]

"Temporary Inconvenience, Permanent Improvement"

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[kelticsylk]

"Things To Do While Glue Dries"

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[kelticsylk]

"Teething Woes"

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[pjm20]

Frank, have you tried Bullfrog Snot for your traction problems? I have it and it works great.

[davefoxx]

Frank,

As far as the traction goes, one option is to add more power, which is what the prototype would do.  In my opinion, that steamer hauling ten cars up a 3% grade is pretty darn good.  Time to double head!  This will be even easier to do with your diesel-electrics.

Also, it sounds like the worst of this is merely because of the removal of the helix.  I wouldn't be too concerned that your trains need to be overpowered to run the wrong way up the Slope.  That is a temporary problem, and, as you know, could be corrected in no time.  I know you soldered those tracks in the helix on the last attempt, but did you solder them before or after you curved the track?  I always leave the last several inches of the track straight and solder on the next track.  Then, when you bend it, it will curve smoothly and stay that way.   And, you're not fighting a kink during soldering or, worse yet, permanently soldering the kink into the joint.

Here's an example.  If you look at the rail joint on the track under the bridge in the following picture, you can see a curved rail joint on my layout.  The missing ties will show you where the joint is.  I soldered that joint before bending that end of the track, and you can see how smooth that curve turned out.  You can do this with your existing Code 80, which will save you money and aggravation by avoiding any need to buy new track or to try to find Code 55.


Hope this helps,
DFF

[kelticsylk]

Model railroaders must be psychically linked or something. I switched to an FM H-16-66 on the same train and was able to handle the grades a bit better. I then switched to my sharks. The old Baldwins took the train in stride. I threw on a third unit and doubled the train length. I made a video, but I'm still editing it.

The sharks can move just about anything they couple up to. They won't go fast. The gearing is way low. They also maintain a constant speed regardless of grade, downhill or uphill.

All of the joints on the helix were done just as you described. I'm thinking the issue is my ability to solder. I have the same problem with soldering plumbing joints and welding. I'm still going for code 55, I really don't like the code 80. The hobby shops in my area have the Atlas code 55 flex in stock, just can't get any Atlas rail joiners. Go figure.

As far as traction aids I found a inexpensive alternative to Bullfrog Snot. It's the stuff they use to coat tool handles. You can buy a can of it at Home Depot or Lowes for less than $10. I have used it in the past and it works well. I'll have to try using it again.

I'm also experimenting with conductive glue as a traction aid. In theory you can coat all the wheels and they will still pickup power. The conductive part works. I just haven't gotten a smooth enough finish to not cause a wobble.

[kelticsylk]

"Hauling Fool"

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[kelticsylk]

"Bits and Pieces"

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[kelticsylk]

"Almost Instant Tractive Effort"

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[kelticsylk]

"Kiss HOMER Goodbye"

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[kelticsylk]

"Another One Bites The Dust"

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[MichaelWinicki]

When I was young, a next door neighbor and I would run trains on his 4x8 in his basement. 

One night we had a case of the stupids and decided we would turn off the lights and run trains around the layout as fast as we could until we heard a crash.  Then we would turn on the lights and survey the damage. 

That was amusing until one of the trains flew off the table onto the floor and the locomotive wound up in with the sump pump.

Operating your layout would bring back to those days in the late 70's. 

[kelticsylk]

"Various & Sundry"

http://kelticsylk.blogspot.com/

[kelticsylk]

"An Extinct 80 Foot Shark"

http://kelticsylk.blogspot.com/

[kelticsylk]

"Taking the Scenic Route: Part 1"

http://kelticsylk.blogspot.com/