Allegheny Eastern: Clean Slate

[Lemosteam]

On my very first spaghetti bowl layout 25 years ago, I laid all of the track in one night.  I made a small wood block with slots to fit the rais.  The block was about one inch tall and long.  The face was perpendicular to the track grooves and the rail top so i could lay the side of a razor saw against it.  The grooves kept the rails from coming out of the tracks as I sawed.  After all the track was down I used this to cut all of my DC block separations an expansion points.  I found this easier than adding spacers as I laid track.  None of my blocks were longer than three feet so their were no power issues.

You may be able to un expand the track.

[mark.hinds]

On my very first spaghetti bowl layout 25 years ago, I laid all of the track in one night.  I made a small wood block with slots to fit the rais.  The block was about one inch tall and long.  The face was perpendicular to the track grooves and the rail top so i could lay the side of a razor saw against it.  The grooves kept the rails from coming out of the tracks as I sawed.  After all the track was down I used this to cut all of my DC block separations an expansion points.  I found this easier than adding spacers as I laid track.  None of my blocks were longer than three feet so their were no power issues.

You may be able to un expand the track.

If you used this technique on curves, I would expect to see kinks at the block separation joints, since the rail wouldn't have been pre-formed to the curve.  On straights it would work, but you would have additional rail joints beyond those associated with the ends of existing sections of rail.  Also, if your layout room experienced large temperature swings, I would expect to see shorts between blocks if the rail end at the block boundary expanded/moved to touch the adjacent section. 

But after all is said and done, you finished your track in a day, and mine is still unfinished 30 years later (...). 

MH

[DKS]

One caveat: please note I said "IIRC" the Rapido track is steel. I know their original sectional track was--you 'd see it rusting on some really old layouts. But I'm not certain if their flex was steel; it was an assumption.

Either way, I don't think I'd be inclined to use it, regardless of its economy.

Stupid question 1,293,456,234.5...What's an "SPF"?

Slobbering Pennsy Freak.

After all the track was down I used this to cut all of my DC block separations an expansion points.

I agree that this invites the possibility of kinks in the track, since curved rail that isn't pre-formed is under stress, and will tend to want to spring back to its original shape when cut. If you're not having any problems, I'd count yourself lucky.

Myself, I avoid the use of rail joiners altogether--the only thing I would solder is a feeder to each section of track. My preference for joining flex is described in another thread:

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=24108.msg258334#msg258334

[LKOrailroad]

I then run a thinned mixture of glue with a little detergent down the track. The detergent lets the glue flow freely around the ties and under the rails.

This may not be the best idea in your particular situation. I know detergent is commonly used to break surface tension for tasks like ballasting and ground cover. In these applications no great demand is placed on the bond strength because there is nothing applying force of any consequence. But in your case the joint you are trying to make is structural and needs to be strong. The active ingredients in detergent that break surface tension (surfactants) migrate to the boundaries of the liquid in which they reside. This is by design because that is where the surface tension exists. However, in a structural application surfactants are not good. They detract (sometimes greatly) from the adhesive bond to the substrate. You would be well advised not to use detergent in your glue mixture when expecting it to have great strength. Use a glue with a lower viscosity to begin with or if sticking with aliphatic glue (the PVA I assume you are using) then add a little water to thin it down some. You won't get the same surface tension breaking as the detergent but then again you won't be destroying the bond strength either.

[Lemosteam]

To clarify, I did not cut through the ties on the flex, and never where there was a gap in the flex ties.  I never had a running issue.   The layout was in an unfinished basement and I never had any shorting or expansion issues.   As long as the "rail spikes" stayed intact, the cut rail never moved laterally on curves or straights.

[kelticsylk]

"In Review"

http://kelticsylk.blogspot.com

[kelticsylk]

"Ad Nauseum"

http://kelticsylk.blogspot.com

[kelticsylk]

"Two Steps Forward"

http://kelticsylk.blogspot.com

[kelticsylk]

"Chasin' Sanborn"

http://kelticsylk.blogspot.com

[DKS]

Frank, I noted in your blog the difficulty you were having soldering steel rail. In the close-up shots, it looks as though you have cold solder joints. You can solder steel about as easily as you can nickel-silver by doing two things. First, clean the ends of the rails really well; I'd use a wire brush in a Dremel. They should be bright silver when you're done. Second, use a flux formulated for soldering steel; I use a water-based acid flux. Brush it onto the rail joiner and the surrounding rail with a small paintbrush. The soldering should take no more than 1-2 seconds, using a minimal amount of solder. You should see the solder wick into the rail joiner quickly; if the solder is "blobby," then the joint is probably no good. The wood roadbed should not get so hot that it scorches, and there should be little or no damage to the plastic ties. Once you have a good solid joint, then clean it thoroughly with rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush.

Here's a piece of Code 40 steel rail soldered to the end of steel music wire, so you can see how easily it can be done.

[kelticsylk]

Thanks Dave...
Do they have that flux at Lowes?

[kelticsylk]

"Alrighty Then"

http://kelticsylk.blogspot.com

[kelticsylk]

"Antartica?"

http://kelticsylk.blogspot.com/

[chicken45]

AAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!! IT'S MEEEEEEE! Well, it will be if you take the "w" out of Surkosky  Unless you changed my name to protect the innocent!


But that looks great! SF is a pretty neat little scene. You can do that concrete tunnel under the mainline. It's iconic little scene. The only pics I found were of a red SF keystone sign. When did they tear down the tower? Did AR control it eventually like it does with UN?

[kelticsylk]

Sorry about misspelling your name. Fixed it...

According to an accident report from 1916 SF tower still existed. I have "anecdotal" info that says it and its operator were destroyed in a boiler explosion that also killed the locomotive crew. According to the interlocking diagram SF was rebuilt in 1918. Not sure what "rebuilt" entails.

The same interlocking diagram shows that UN, SF and BF are all controlled from AR. The last time the diagram was updated was 1948.
That diagram is the same drawing you and I have repeatedly posted as an example of the track arrangement