The NW-2 Project

[u18b]

I've enjoyed getting back into article writing and modeling after a hiatus of about 4 years.

I've finished up about 7 projects and submitted the articles...  and now I'm turning my attention to something I've wanted to do for a long time.

The Chessie/CSX Huntington shop switcher.  A late phase NW-2.

Here is the early scheme.    http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1930894

Here is the mid scheme.  http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=450485

And here is the late scheme.  http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1108646

Ron Bearden

[Philip H]

Ron, no matter which scheme you choose, it's gonna be hawt!

[wcfn100]

I look forward to your treatment of the louvers.  I did mine pre-Archer transfers and it was not fun. 



Please post some pics here as I don't read either N scale magazine.

Jason

[u18b]

The Kato model is an early phase.   The most identifying mark is the way the roof steps just in front of the cab.
Go to this page:  http://trainiax.net/me55-emd.php
Scroll down a little to the NW2 section.

According to these drawings, the Kato model is a phase 1.   But also note that phases 1-4 all have the stepped hood.

My target model is a phase 5.  The hood slopes like an SW1200.

Hey, why not try to splice a Life Like SW1200 slope into the Kato model?  I have an extra SW1200 and a Kato NW2 shell just for this project.

Here is a fuzzy shot-


Since the cab sits in a channel, I cut the body and retained the channel on the cab end of the Kato shell.


Here is a closer shot.  Notice the forward splice is right at a line on the roof and right where door and hinges meet.


And here is a shot of the channel glued to the Life Like section.  It just makes it.


Ron

[u18b]

Unfortunately, this is not a perfect kitbash.

The door heights are not exact between the two models.  Notice the LL doors come down lower than the Kato doors.



Work to do-
NW2 used door handles.  LL has knuckle busters.

I also need to remove the louvers from the LL section.

[u18b]

I look forward to your treatment of the louvers.  I did mine pre-Archer transfers and it was not fun. 



Please post some pics here as I don't read either N scale magazine.

Jason

Jason, please tell me more.

I had just about made the compromise that mine would not have louvers- but yours look great.  How did you do yours?

And what product are you talking about?

[wcfn100]

Good idea Ron!  I hadn't noticed the hood.  My ultimate NW-2 is actually a TR-2 set and I will need to do that hood slope conversion.  Too bad about the doors, that might be a real issue.  Maybe just use the top part and leave the Kato door section?  I was also looking at the old Kato/CC/Riv/Atlas SW1200 to see what might be used.

Honestly, I would just cut the step taper hood off the Kato model using the tops of the doors as a guide and follow the lines breaks on the top hood.  I had to make a similar section for another project and it didn't end up being all that bad.



Archer Fine Transfers makes a 6" louver sheet that I want to try on my next conversion.

My louvers were done by hand by scribing styrene with a utility knife blade held at a 45deg angle. I think there is a thread somewhere here that I had more info (and pictures) posted.

Even without the louvers, I'll be interested in what you come up with for the hood.

Jason

[u18b]

Jason,

Actually, your suggestion might be worth trying in the future.

Keeping the Kato doors and main body in tact, and splice in a triangular piece from the LL model.  The splice could be at the tops of the door and the seem would be hidden a bit by the handrail- which will be installed when all is done.

The LL hood is like 1 mill wider than the Kato hood. I have an extra Kato shell, but not an extra LL hood. Otherwise, I'd try your way and make two.

I found the louvers on the Archer site and just ordered some.  I knew about rivets, but not louvers.  They are just what this model needs.  Thanks.

http://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html

[u18b]

I had decals made a couple of years ago.

Can't wait to use them.

[u18b]

Here is where I am to this point.  Looks a lot better with details added.
-The conical stacks are the ones i needed.
-I also re-used the LL headlights.  They are a little too pointed, but they are closer to prototype than the stock Kato lights.  I mounted them without the lenses since I will use fiber optics and gluing them in place will make painting easier.
-I sanded the lovers off the LL door in the slope section.
-I sanded the knuckle busters off the LL section.



I hate to post this photo since a shot like this is brutal, but thought it would be helpful.
You can see:
-The model dropped! and broke the front coupler.  Ahhhh!   Glad the shell is OK though.
-The front headlight points upward  just a little.  Hmmm.
-you can see that the frame and cab sag in the rear.  This is an indication that something is not sitting just right on the mechanism.  It was a little tight at the slope and I already filed the frame just a little.  I'll do it more in the future.

[u18b]

Made some progress on handrails.  Took a lot of work.




I split the delryn hadrails on the pilots, adding two middle stanchions because the loco needs drop steps.

[wcfn100]

That's real nice Ron.  I need to find my old SW1500's to see if something similar is possible.  I can't wait to see it painted with the Archer louvers (if you're so inclined).  That would remove most of the excuses I've had for not starting this project.


Jason

[robert3985]

All that work and you're not going to shave off the cast-on grabs and uncoupling levers and replace 'em with 3D brass ones?

Tsk tsk....

Cheers!
Bob Gilmore

[Coxy]

Thanks for sharing this project Ron. What is not evident from the photos is how small this unit is! It's coming along great.

Could you post some shots of working up the handrails if you have them? Hand built handrails are somewhat mysterious to me. Do you permanently attach the staunches to the sills or do they clip in like the factory delrin ones? Any other tips and suggestions would be appreciated.

Also looking forward to your treatment of decoder + fiber optic lighting.

Cheers,
Steven

[u18b]

All that work and you're not going to shave off the cast-on grabs and uncoupling levers and replace 'em with 3D brass ones?

Tsk tsk....

Cheers!
Bob Gilmore

Bob,
I actually had not decided what I was going to do.

But I kind-of figured I'd be shamed into doing them [facepalm]. 
Passing the time until the Archer louvers arrive.