Modeling putty?

[Chris333]

I use Milliput before when building model cars because any other putty never seemed to fully harden and year later it would sink under the paint.

But Milliput dried very hard and it was a pain to sand down.

I'd use Bondo and fill any pin holes with auto spot putty.

[kalbert]

The solvent based putty like the Bondo glazing and spot putty shown is for just that... glazing and spot work. Filling fine seams and mold lines, and as a top coat to smooth out other fillers. Think of it like super thick primer in a tube. Two part polyester fillers like regular Bondo are for filling large imperfections, but are somewhat porous and often need a glazing putty on top. They also get hot, like hotthe enough to warp plastic, when they're spread thick on a big area. There are also two part polyester fillers with very fine particles sometimes called "icing" that work good when you're not needing to fill alot but need more than a glaze can do.

My two cents is to use spot putty as a final step before primer, and use something else toget the general shape carved out. Regular Bondo seems overkill given the tiny bit you'd need but its super easy to work with and will be easy to shape with a spatula before it cures and after with sandpaper or even carved with a knife.

[spookshow]

Um, I didn't see any mention here stating that the glazing putty will not shrink

Well, you'd better look again. The very first response has a picture of a tube of Bondo and Bryan saying "it dries quickly, doesn't shrink and has great workability."

-Mark

[wazzou]

Ahem...
After using Squadron earlier in my modeling, to me Bondo Glazing Putty doesn't shrink.  If it does, it's negligible when compared to previous experiences.

That has been my experience, however, doing what you are looking to do Mark, I would build the shape up with styrene first.  I would then use that Bondo putty or whichever putty you decide to go with to fill any remaining seams, gaps and get your finished contours.

[spookshow]

I think my eventual "plan" is to embed a styrene tube into a slot in the roof and then blend it in with putty. But hell, I'm just making this up as I go along. Lots of trial and error (emphasis on error) expected.

-Mark

[DKS]

I've been hearing a good buzz about UV cured putty. Among others, Tamyia makes it, and I've just ordered some for evaluation.

[wcfn100]

Has anyone tried making their own using scrap styrene and solvent?  I started a jar but haven't had a need to use it yet.

Jason

[wazzou]

Has anyone tried making their own using scrap styrene and solvent?        MEK?
Jason

[wcfn100]

I'm using an old bottle of Testors cement that had a little left at the bottom and have been slowly adding styrene bits.

Jason

[pnolan48]

I mix my own glue at about 80% MEK and 20% toluene, although the proportions are not that critical. MEK and toluene by the pint are cheap, and I'm still on the first 3 oz of the mix after gluing together many ships with multiple layers of styrene. This mixture grabs quickly and with finality. I like it better than any commercial glue I've ever used. I have mixed in bits of styrene in very small amounts in separate mixing containers--I think the mix may be too volatile to use as a putty, but then I haven't really made a putty.

My biggest problem has been working the stuff into small areas. I have all sorts of dental tools, but just haven't mastered the skills. Oh well, more practice, I guess.

I seem to be moderately allergic to bondo via its aerosols (not skin contact), which is totally strange, but allergic responses are allergic responses. As I am hyper-allergic to sulfur compounds, I think there might be some sulfur-related expressed gasses in bondo.

[LV LOU]

Has anyone tried making their own using scrap styrene and solvent?  I started a jar but haven't had a need to use it yet.

Jason

Yep..Great in theory,lousy in practice.I've tried it a half dozen times over the years,I keep forgetting why I don't keep using it..It shrinks like a rotting bannana,and even though it is plastic,it's not still really plastic when it dries.It gets kinda funky,not really as hard,and it doesn't even seem to be consistent,it dries to different thicknesses in different areas.It's even hard to use,the outer part of the blob almost immediately gets a skin on it as soon as you start using it..Pretty much,don't waste your time,ANY commercial filler is better.

[LV LOU]

Well, you'd better look again. The very first response has a picture of a tube of Bondo and Bryan saying "it dries quickly, doesn't shrink and has great workability."

-Mark

Just remember Mark,results often are judged by your personal expectation of the finished product,LOL!!

[peteski]

Well, you'd better look again. The very first response has a picture of a tube of Bondo and Bryan saying "it dries quickly, doesn't shrink and has great workability."

Um, that just shows how selective human brain can be in ignoring things the eyes see.    In my experience with solvent-based putties in thicker layers I have always (well, for the few times I tried) experienced shrinkage so I no longer use those putties. To be honest I'm not a big fan of those putties for any job. Putties are too messy for me. I also hate sanding. I rather use other media for filling gaps which allow me to fill the gap with minimal work afterwards. Things like CA glue, epoxy glues.  However in your particular application a putty (which doesn't shrink) is IMO the best material to use.  What I'm saying is that if I had to to what you're doing I would use some sort of putty myself.

[peteski]

Has anyone tried making their own using scrap styrene and solvent?        MEK?

Jason, the Testors liquid cement I use (in square glass bottles) contains MEK (or so it states on the label).  Just like with many other chemicals we use in our hobbies it is safe if common sense is being applied during usage.

As far as using "liquid styrene" (bits of kit's sprue trees dissolved in a solvent) it will have the same problem as solvent based putties - it will shrink as it hardens (the solvent evaporates from the plastic so its volume is reduced).  Also in thicker layers the solvent might take very long time to fully evaporate (like months).

[LV LOU]

Um, that just shows how selective human brain can be in ignoring things the eyes see.    In my experience with solvent-based putties in thicker layers I have always (well, for the few times I tried) experienced shrinkage so I no longer use those putties. To be honest I'm not a big fan of those putties for any job. Putties are too messy for me. I also hate sanding. I rather use other media for filling gaps which allow me to fill the gap with minimal work afterwards. Things like CA glue, epoxy glues.  However in your particular application a putty (which doesn't shrink) is IMO the best material to use.  What I'm saying is that if I had to to what you're doing I would use some sort of putty myself.

Actually,THE best way is to not need any kind of filler.I make everything from solid plastic,fit it as close as possible,then bond it in with lacquer thinner.Better to spend two hours fitting something than spend five minutes filling,a day waiting for it to dry,then destroy the thing trying to sand it without ruining the detail.