Atlas announced the LED street lights today, and SD60, and TOFC

[sirenwerks]

Dave,

Please do offer your own.

Atlas obviously wanted to make them as robust and fool-proof as possible. However... I think they went a tad overboard. It can certainly be done for less, assuming one didn't mind getting rid of the thumbscrew nut and "self-leveling spacer" and all that other hardware... how about a pole with just a base and two wires; drill hole, insert wires in hole, apply a dab of glue. Done.

I think I just might put my ideas back on the list...

Which reminds me... the first one I was going to do was a utility-pole-mounted light. You know, the kind you see everywhere?



Source: http://streetlights.tripod.com/fixtures/index.html

[peteski]

Since I heard about them (during the NSE convention), I was also disappointed by the new Atlas street lights.  But my dissapointment is not because of the price (which nevertheless seems a bit high if it is for a single lamp).  It is its design.  I do understand that there are some design constraints to make them suitable for mass production but do we really need another chunky N scale street light?  But the main thing that bothered me is the indirect (fiber optic) illumination.

I've been playing with fiber optics for decades, back when I was illuminating them with candles (um, well, incandescent bulbs  ).   The problem with fiber optics is that even if illuminated by a fairly bright LED, the light output is very small if compared to what is achievable when the same LED is the direct source of light.

I haven't seen the Atlas street lights in person but I doubt that their light output will be able to illuminate the street below it and also cast light at the surroundings the way a direct-lit light fixture would.

In a total coincidence, about a year ago I needed to replace burned out street lights on a friend's layout. Those were close to scale, using 1.2mm 1.5V micro bulbs.  While they looked good, they did not illuminate the street below them But I built those close to 20 years ago and I used what the smallest light source was available at that time. But just as bulbs do, they have burned out.  The technology has taken leaps forward so I decided to build replacement street lamps (of similar size and shape) but using the new LED technology. The 0603 bright white LEDs are widely available for about 25 cents each and they are even smaller than the bulbs I originally used.  I came up with a very easy to make lamp which probably costs less than a dollar each to make (I had all the items at hand so I didn't actually do a price breakdown).  All the materials are readily available. They also illuminate their surroundings in a way similar to real street lights (I don't have a photo of that handy). I'm not going to give too much info here as I'm planning on covering their construction in a magazine article. 

Here is the finished street light.


And a close up of the head


This was a prototype batch of four I made.  On the next batch I will make the lens larger and I will also use a paint which gives smoother finish. This is a mixture of Floquil platinum mist, concrete and glaze and obviously at such high magnification is has a large grain.  This is not visible when viewed on the layout.

Here is a photo showing the 20-year old street light which were replaced

[bbussey]

... The problem with fiber optics is that even if illuminated by a fairly bright LED, the light output is very small if compared to what is achievable when the same LED is the direct source of light. ...

That is true.  However, that's not to say that the fiber optics option doesn't allow for a more prototypical output of light than the super-nova style of direct LED light.

I would want to see the new Atlas lamps in operation, in a darkened environment, before assuming that the illumination is inadequate.

[pwnj]

Wow, that looks pretty darn good.

[peteski]

That is true.  However, that's not to say that the fiber optics option doesn't allow for a more prototypical output of light than the super-nova style of direct LED light.

I would want to see the new Atlas lamps in operation, in a darkened environment, before assuming that the illumination is inadequate.

Well Bryan,  you don't have to run the LEDs in super-nova mode. You can easily tune their brightness to whatever level makes them look realistic by using the appropriate current limiting resistor.  The ones I designed aren't running at the maximum current the LED is designed for. They are being used at a much dimmer level.     But it is good to have more than enough light output available if needed. My assumptions about Atlas lamps are based on years of utilizing fiber optics for model illumination.  But I could be wrong...

[DKS]

My assumptions about Atlas lamps are based on years of utilizing fiber optics for model illumination.  But I could be wrong...

We share the same experiences, and the same concerns. So far, the most effective use of fiber optics I've achieved was to simulate a field full of flickering fireflies, a pretty decent campfire, some car headlights, and a small window sign with chaser lights. Note that street lights are not on the list. Fiber optics are really tricky to work with, and I have to wonder about that guy on eBay with the headline, "illuminate your layout the easy way with fiber optics."  Yeah, right.

Oh, and here's a streetlight I made... in T scale.



Build story: http://1-450.blogspot.com/2009/06/small-thing.html

[bbussey]

I still think that judgment should be reserved until the product reaches the market.

[John]

I still think that judgment should be reserved until the product reaches the market.

+1

[DKS]

I'm not necessarily "passing judgment"; I'm expressing a modicum of concern based on experience, as I believe is Peteski.

[pwnj]

From my 20+ years of experience using fiber optics, I gotta agree with DKS and Petesky.  For the most part, I've found it to be most useful in making it appear that a light is "on", rather than the light is shining on something else.  Now with the latest superbright LED "light engines", you can push more light out, and in a short distance like the length of a light pole, you may very well be able to do some lighting, but we'll see what it can really accomplish when it's finally released (unless anyone from Atlas would like to actually show us beforehand... hint hint!).

[Cory Rothlisberger]

Hopefully Paul or Cory can comment on the TOFC flats, whether the bridge plates are on all the flats, or if they will be easily removable.

If so, I'll be getting the Trailer Train and TTX ones. Can never have too many 89' flats

The Trailer Train flat will have the tall bridge plates while the TTX flat will not. They are supposed to be "removable". As another note, the bridge plates were not designed to fold down like the MTL flats.

In regards to the street lights, these are being imported from Europe.  The design allows for the lights to be self-leveling so long as the hole is drilled within 10° of perpendicular.  The pole/light assembly is removable from the base, allowing for simple changes for era or style.  They are perfect for modular layouts as they can be removed for transport, and reinstalled within minutes during set up. 

[davefoxx]

That light reminds me of the top of these:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tnfLB9gQnaQ/TfHYDgvft3I/AAAAAAAAaoI/-6ZGQcgf-i8/s1600/The-War-Of-The-Worlds-13.jpg

Does yours also have a heat-ray option?   

[Bob Bufkin]

That light reminds me of the top of these:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tnfLB9gQnaQ/TfHYDgvft3I/AAAAAAAAaoI/-6ZGQcgf-i8/s1600/The-War-Of-The-Worlds-13.jpg

Does yours also have a heat-ray option?   

Funny, but I was thinking the same thing but I couldn't find a photo like you did.

[DKS]

Funny, but I was thinking the same thing but I couldn't find a photo like you did.

+1

[wm3798]

I scabbed together some of the pole mount variety that DKS espouses, only they're very rough, with form following function, rather than attempting a true scale appearance.  I used a 1.8 mm LED, and simply bent the anode/cathodes into the shape of a pole mounted arm.  This passes behind the pole itself, with the wiring being located inside the adjacent building.  I paint the anode/cathodes black between the pole and the building to make them less obvious.

Looks a little funky during daylight, but when the lights are dimmed...


Yes, they are pretty bright, but so are your typical soda vapor cobra heads downtown.  I like the way it provides a nice wash of light over the buildings nearby, not just a pool of light on the ground.

Lee