Grand Trunk Southern

[GaryHinshaw]

Neat!  I really enjoyed the turbo video, but I didn't make the connection that it was your layout.  The sight of turbos snaking through your S curves was sweet.  It must have been a trip having Jason & Co in the house.   

[shark_jj]

Thanks Gary, yes, it was a lot of fun.  It gave me some interesting insights.  Jason knowledge of the Turbo is amazing and listening to them talk about the issues they needed to address on the production models gives you an insight into how seriously they focus on trying to make an accurate well running model.  It was also great to have Dan there who is a whiz at the technical side.  I had been having trouble with my Prairie Shadows cabooses making them run well.  I had gotten the 33 inch wheels from Rapido to replace the 36 inch ones but I was still dragging the cabooses around the layout behind trains.  I mentioned this to Dan.  He explained that the plastic on the trucks is very thin to allow for the brass inserts for the lighting and it bends easily, so the truck side frames go out of alignment.  A little bending with his fingers and voila!, my cabooses run reasonably well for the first time.  I think I will actually post this on the main forum so others know to do it.

Now that the Rapido video is done, our regular Wednesday night round robin group was back at my house and we continued ballasting.  Here are the guys hard at work.

Colin



Ken



John and Neal

[shark_jj]

When Jason and his gang visited the layout in March to shoot the Turbo video, they really liked the S Curve on the lower level of my turnback loop.  Their comments got me focused on this area as it is the first thing you see as you enter the layout room and I had never been happy with its appearance.  In the two photos below you can see that area with the CN Turbo train going around the upper level loop.  Clearly, it was going to be a bit of a challenge as there are two levels of track in close proximity to one another.




 
This is my fourth layout at home, and I spent 30 years in the HOMES Club, most of it focused on scenery, so I had some clear ideas in my head on how I wanted to proceed.  The other four guys in our round robin group, however, didn’t have much experience with scenery and we agreed that this project would be a great learning experience for them.  I will share our experiences through some of the photos I took.
 
As you can see the fascia is uniform throughout the curve and I wanted that to change.  The original idea was for a ballasted fill on about a third of the upper level track.  We talked about whether to use foam (pink or blue), screening, or cardboard web to form the contours.  The group doing this part of the task chose screening.  After cutting the fascia out on the front, it was decided to use a combination of cardboard webbing and screening to provide support for the plaster.  On the interior we used screening pushed up with newspapers stuffed in from underneath.  The photo below clearly shows this stage of the construction.   





The next step was to cut out the subroadbed to permit the installation of a bridge. 



Since this was on a curve, the type of bridge became an issue.  We couldn’t locate a bridge that would work for the  curve we needed and so consideration was given to a tunnel.  The difficulty with a tunnel is the turnout for Nathansville Siding that you see on this side of the bridge cut.  After considerable research, I found a bridge on the Lehigh Valley.  A curved ballasted deck girder supported by a steel lattice structure across the D&H tracks underneath.  Perfect, we had a prototype for our bridge. 
 
In order to install our bridge, we routered keys into the subroadbed on each side. 



The bridge itself would use 1/4 inch hardboard as its base with deck girders and a ballasted deck.  One of the advantages of this type of construction is that we were able to install the bridge deck immediately, lay cork and re-install the track.  This meant that the layout was operational again, excluding the mess, as construction continued.  In the photograph below, you can see the 1/4 inch hardboard installed, track laid, and by the time of this photo, bridge abutments being installed.  If I had guests I could clean the layout and run trains if necessary.

 

[shark_jj]

The next step would be to begin installing rock castings.  In the past I had always made rock castings from a large 50 pound bag of hydrocal that I purchased 25 years ago.  Unfortunately, it had finally passed its best by date and I needed another option.  I had 4 or 5 containers of Woodlands Scenics Lightweight Hyrdrocal that was part of an estate I purchased a couple of years ago.  I followed their instructions for amounts of water vs amount of lightweight hyrdrocal.  Bad choice, mix was runny and when it finally dried the castings were chalky and easily broken.  Second attempt, forget the instructions, add water until I reached a consistency that memory served me should be about right and the castings came out great.  Lesson learned, if you are using Lightweight Hyrdrocal, be cautious with amount of water, use your own judgement on consistency. 

Here are some photos of the castings just sitting in place.







At this stage the guys weren't seeing how it would all come together.  I tackled the castings in the front, and finished them off including colouring them to show them what the finished product would look like before we continued on.  Here is a photo of that.



I'll stop here for today, and continue this thread tomorrow.

[shark_jj]

A quick revisit to this image. 



This was the stage at which the guys who hadn't done scenery before were struggling to envision how it was going to turn out.  You can see where we have started to cover the screening and the pink foam with Woodlands Scenics plaster cloth.  I then showed them how to layer on a coat of Sculptamold and use Sculptamold to fill the gaps between the rock castings.  The biggest thing was to try and give the rocks a 3 dimensional appearance.  At this stage, the guys who hadn't done this before were quite startled at the change in appearance of the castings and we moved on to tackling the next step which was to paint the castings.  Again there was some trepidation, fear of getting it wrong.  It took a little bit of convincing to make them believe that there was no wrong.  The paints are the cheap $1 a bottle stuff from Michael's.  A black wash over everything, then straight black, straight burnt umber, and straight raw umber, dry brushed on to give highlights.  The first one that they tried was a little dark, however, I showed them that if you dipped a stiff brush in plain water and scrubbed the casting a little, it lightened right up.  I was happy with the results of their efforts and they were thrilled.  Here are some photos showing the results of these efforts.



The picture below demonstrates quite well the 3 dimensional effect we were seeking.



Here we can see some of the rockwork around the bridge abutments.



An overall view looking into the cut

[shark_jj]

I got distracted on other things and never did finish this series of posts.  Here are some photos of the finished scene.

[shark_jj]

My latest project has been to add water to the river and the rapids in Ethansburg.  I decided to use the new Woodlands Scenics "water" products.  To prepare the scene I sealed the edge along the fascia with clear silicone caulk.  Plaster was poured into the river bottom and allowed to set.  Truth be told, this part was done about 18 months ago, but it sets the stage for the actual water pour, and underscores the need to make sure all of the edges of your water course are sealed.  I had painted the bottom black with tan colored shallows and the two colours blended together. 

Railwire Member Fredrick Aldhoch has been working with me on the layout the last month or so and one of the tasks he and my grandson Ethan undertook was to paint another part of the River in another aisle.  At my suggestion he used the Woodland Scenics Olive Green undercoat with tan shallows.  One look and I fell in love with that colour over the black I had used in the main river.  Needless to say Fredrich and Ethan were soon repainting the entire river bottom, Olive Green in the deeps, and tan in the shallows. 

For the water, I had previously tested Woodlands Scenics Deep Pour Water Murky in a couple of ponds and was happy with the effects and how easy it was to work with.  I did take pains to follow the instructions to the letter.  I read that was important somewhere.  Either in a post on Railwire by Randgust when he did his water, or in the instruction video put out by Woodland Scenics.  In any event, I had no issues with the pour so I would urge anyone else using the product to do the same, follow the instructions. 

The ponds which were about 6 square inches, dried perfectly.  The river however was another story.  The river is a total of 12 feet long, and 2 to 3 inches wide.  My plan was to do it as one continuous pour.  That being said continuous means 4 separate mixings and then pourings, simply because of the amount of product.  There was 15 minutes between pours.  The 15 minutes was because I went with the optional mixing method of 5 minutes stirring, 5 minutes covered sitting, and then an additional 5 minutes mixing.  This helps to eliminate air bubbles in the mix.  I assume it works, since I had no air bubble problems. 

They talk about a film possibly forming on the product and using a hair dryer to remove it as it dries.  I didn't encounter this film issue, which was good, since neither my wife or I own a hair dryer.  What I did encounter was what I can best describe as "stretch marks"  These were small lines in the water that could only be seen if you got down and looked at the water sideways in the light.  Standing tall they weren't overly visible, but of course, I knew they were there and they kind of bugged me.  There is no mention of this outcome in the instructions or how to avoid it.

In any event, it became a non-issue since my next step was to apply the Woodlands Scenics Water Ripple product.  This is a gel type material which you stipple on with a stiff brush.  Very simple.  It dries in 24 hours and gives the water a moving effect and Hooray, it covers the stretch marks. 

My next step was to use Woodlands Scenics Water Wave product to create a fast moving water in the rapids and narrows at one end of this scene.  I also used their White Water Highlight Paint to lightly dry brush this fast moving water.  I imagine you could use craft paint, but at this point, in for a penny in for a pound.

Overall, I am satisfied with how this has turned out, but the one warning I would give is that this is not an inexpensive process, compared to some other options.

Here are some photos.

The first is the area of the rapids and the narrows showing the use of the Water Waves product and the white highlights



The actual rapids and the white water is clearer.



Top of the rapids showing the transition area and the ripples on the river surface



Another shot of the wave action in the narrows.

[wm3798]

I got distracted on other things and never did finish this series of posts.  Here are some photos of the finished scene.

Outstanding execution...  That's a signature scene, there.  Reminiscent of the peninsula I built for the old WM...


Only you have better trees!
All the best!
Lee

[shark_jj]

Thanks Lee, appreciate the kind words.

[LIRR]

very nicely done...

[Hawghead]

Love the rock work and the water, very well done.  Do you use commercial molds for the rocks or do you make your own?

Scott

[Bob]

Really nice job - thanks for taking the time to complete the post.  I am just starting scenery on my CSX Cumberland Division, so seeing a series of photos that take you from the beginning to the finished scene are incredibly helpful - this makes it easier to see how things come together, and also take some of the mystery (and worry) out of the process!  COuld you perhaps say a bit more about how you painted your rock castings?  Thanks!  Bob

[shark_jj]

Scott and Bob, my apologies for not replying to your questions sooner.  Summer time, and golf takes priority these days, as well as some renovations to the house.  In any event, Scott, the majority of the rocks in the water scene are pine bark.  There is an explanation of how  I use that on page 3 of this thread.  Bob, I have all of Woodlands Scenics rubber molds as well as some I made myself.  The rocks are cast from Hydrocal.  I had a 50 lb bag that I bought probably 30 years ago and was using it till recently when it finally went hard.  Now I am using Woodlands Scenics lightweight hydrocal since none of the lumber yards in our area seem to carry Hydrocal.  As far as painting, there is no rocket science.  Cheap water colours from Micheals or Wal-Mart.  The $1.00 a bottle kind.  I primarily use Black, Burnt Umber, and Yellow Ochre.  I use a fairly stiff brush.  Its about 3/8's to 1/2 inch wide.  Two keys to painting rocks.  One, check out the prototype.  What are the basic colours of the rocks in the area you model.  In the northeast, it is primarily grey to light black with tones of brown and ochre.  Others areas, like north of Lake Superior, the rock has a real reddish tone.  The second key, is that it's almost impossible to screw it up, so just give it a try.  Put some of the black paint in a container and dilute it with water.  I wish I could give you a formula, but it's a bit of trial and error.  Put about 1 inch of water in the bottom of a margarine container and put in one squirt of your paint.  Mix it up and apply it to your casting.  Have another container of clean water, or a squeeze bottle handy.  If it is too dark, clean your brush in the clean water and apply clean water to the painted area.  You will see the paint move around and lighten up.  If you need it darker, just add more paint to the container.  The burnt umber and ochre, I tend to dry brush.  I put some paint on my pallette, put a little on my brush, brush it on the casting where I want it, then hit it with water from the squeeze bottle so that it runs into the crevices and then let it dry.  If it goes somewhere I don't want it, I move it around with the brush.  If it looks to brown, I just cover it with a little more of the black. 

If you look at the early photos of the scene that our group worked on, in the early pictures the rocks look fairly black when they dried.  I thought so too, it was the guys first attempt at painting rocks and we were treating this scene as a learning experience.  So I went at them with the squeeze bottle full of water and the stiff brush and just kept brushing them until the colour lightened up.  There is a lot of flexibility and tolerance with water colours.  The exception is if when you are finished you cover the casting with something like Woodlands Scenics Scenic Cement which is something I think they suggest.  If you do that, the colour is locked in. 

Anyway, hope this is helpful.

John

[shark_jj]

I had my two grandsons for the day last week.  Ethan the older one had helped me make some Fir trees as well as some Super Trees.  I needed some on 2 or 3 places on the layout.  The plan had been to take the boys trainwatching, but a derailment on CN at Paris put paid to our plans so I suggested we do some scenery on the layout.  The boys are 14 and 11 and they pitched right in.  You will remember this photo from my last update when we did the water.



Last time the guys were over, Ethan (the 14 year old) who is now a member of our group, added sculptamold to the base and painted the rock castings.  Now he and his brother added some trees, some static grass, and some bushes and this is the finished result.  They were happy, I was happy, and hopefully they learned a little something.





We went on to plant trees in a couple of other locations.  This one we filled in the area right besides the track. 



And in this area, we started by putting trees in towards the rear of the scene.  Still a lot of work to do, but we have a start.





The fir trees are some cheap plastic trees that one of the guys in the club picked up.  He got about 2000 for 10 cents a tree.  He gave me about 200 of them.  Ethan has been covering them in material from Woodlands Scenics and Scenic Express to good effect.
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[shark_jj]

We held our 5th and 6th operating sessions over the last two Wednesday nights.  The regulars were over plus Fredrick (CN5529 here on the Railwire) and Terry from the N Scale Roadshow who was a guest operator.  The schedule has been evolving.  I started with switchlists, migrated to car cards, and have now moved to the Tab on Car system that Mark Dance is using.  Most of my operators are older and the switchlist and car card systems were causing issues with seeing car numbers.  The Tab on Car has solved that and the guys love it.  The only issue I have encountered is cars without roof walks.  Keeping the tabs on has proven problematic.  I solved that by putting these cars into pool service between the GTS and the CP and the GTS and the PRR.  All of that switching takes place in Clarion yard and instructions to the Yard Operators in writing to switch these cars has kept them circulating.  Here are some photos of the last session.