Lowering Micro-Trains PS-1s - suggestion for MT

[nkalanaga]

With the increasing interest in lowering the MT PS-1 boxcars, I would like to suggest a solution to MT.  This would involve minimal effort and cost, and can be done at any time in the future.

Sooner or later the dies for the 40 and 50 ft PS-1 underframes will need to be repaired or replaced.  At that time, I would like to suggest lowering the bolsters so that a 1025 coupler, mounted with the existing screw hole, would be at the proper height.  This will eliminate much of the excess height without modifying the trucks or body.  On the 50 ft cars it may be necessary to remove some material for flange clearance under the inner axles.

To retain the truck mounted couplers, if that is desired from a marketing standpoint, the washer included with replacement trucks could be used.  As this is on the same casting with the truck pin, no new tooling would be required.  Modelers satisfied with the current height, or with sharp curves, and collectors, wouldn't see any difference.  Those who wish to lower the car could remove the washer, body mount the couplers, and be finished.

To make the conversion easier, a bulk pack of 1025 boxes, lids, and screws would allow the reuse of the existing coupler parts, leaving only the truck mounted box as waste.

A second request from me would be to move the screw hole a little closer to the bolster so that a 1025 coupler doesn't stick out quite so far.  However, that is an entirely separate matter, and has no bearing on lowering the car.

Thank you,
N Kalanaga

[bbussey]

First off, the #1015 coupler is a better choice than the #1023/1025 coupler because the spring is in front of the pivot post, which limits the oscillation to pushing rather than pulling activities.

Second, MTL has had numerous opportunities to lower the ride height on older tooling and decided up to this point that the money is better spent on the newer tooling.  Also, with the Atlas/Athearn 40/50-foot PS-1 cars providing better ride height and incorporating newer design practices, there is little upside in pursuing that avenue at this time.  The better option is to introduce newly tooled models designed to the current standards, which is the course the company is pursuing.

The only purpose of retaining truck-mounted couplers at this point is for equipment to run on 9¾ inch radius.  That is becoming less of a concern if at all, particularly on the higher-end models, since the customer base that is buying those types of models is for the most part not using the toy-like 9¾ inch radius on their layouts.  Few if any motive power models over the past two decades have truck-mounted couplers, and most new rolling stock models are equipped with body-mounted couplers as well.

[Brakie]

Maybe MT could sell a aftermarket frame that lowers the ride height and for body mounting the #1015.

MT should address this problem and go head to head with their competitors instead of shying away since body mounted couplers will become the norm.

I don't see why  9 3/4 curves should be a concern for 40 and 50 foot cars with body mounted couplers since there is side to side play in the coupler..

[ljudice]

Actually, this might be a good area to investigate with some of the RP tools, like shapeways...

Perfect finish is not likely an issue - just dimensional accuracy - and weight could be added to the floor (or as loads in gons).

- Lou

[Wardie]

I would like to see MT spend i's tooling dollars on a closer to scale coupler, or adapting the Z coupler to a box that fits the standard body mount pad on modern tooling. Something that I could swap out fairly easy.

[Brakie]

Actually, this might be a good area to investigate with some of the RP tools, like shapeways...

Perfect finish is not likely an issue - just dimensional accuracy - and weight could be added to the floor (or as loads in gons).

- Lou

That's a good idea and could save a lot of work.

I would be highly interested in buying these underframes.

I agree the bottom detail could be minimal since its not seen..

[sirenwerks]

I'm with Bryan and Wardie on this one. Let's keep those R&D dollars focused on a solution to the oversized coupler issue, and to brand new, proto-correct body styles; rather than an outdated molding that's bound to be replaced in the market by newer, better products from other manufacturers.

[ednadolski]

... or adapting the Z coupler to a box that fits the standard body mount pad on modern tooling. Something that I could swap out fairly easy.

Be sure to check out Gary's awesome etched brass coupler pocket, designed to hold the Full Throttle Z-scale coupler:

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=21980.msg250919#msg250919

This is still developmental, but very promising IMHO.

Ed

[mark.hinds]

FYI, it is extremely easy to lower the bolsters yourselves, using a simple jig. 

I make mine by stacking several pieces of scrap sheet plastic, bound by Scotch tape, to achieve the correct height; call these "shims".  I then tape one of these shims to each end of a clean, sharp metal file.  The metal casting at the bottom of the MT cars is removed, and placed on a hard flat surface.  The file, with the 2 shims holding it at the correct distance above the flat surface, is then used to file down the bolsters.  Be careful not to press too hard on the center of the metal file when doing this, or it will bend, and remove more material than desired. 

MH

[Brakie]

FYI, it is extremely easy to lower the bolsters yourselves, using a simple jig. 

I make mine by stacking several pieces of scrap sheet plastic, bound by Scotch tape, to achieve the correct height; call these "shims".  I then tape one of these shims to each end of a clean, sharp metal file.  The metal casting at the bottom of the MT cars is removed, and placed on a hard flat surface.  The file, with the 2 shims holding it at the correct distance above the flat surface, is then used to file down the bolsters.  Be careful not to press too hard on the center of the metal file when doing this, or it will bend, and remove more material than desired. 

MH

Mark,That sounds like a good solution..

However..

Take me as a example I have one good hand and limited use of my one dominate right hand that limits any "real" modeling I can do so for guys like me a aftermarket MT frame or a  PUD frame would be the better solution.

I would rather see MT release a after market frame for their older cars.

[ljudice]

FYI, it is extremely easy to lower the bolsters yourselves, using a simple jig. 

I make mine by stacking several pieces of scrap sheet plastic, bound by Scotch tape, to achieve the correct height; call these "shims".  I then tape one of these shims to each end of a clean, sharp metal file.  The metal casting at the bottom of the MT cars is removed, and placed on a hard flat surface.  The file, with the 2 shims holding it at the correct distance above the flat surface, is then used to file down the bolsters.  Be careful not to press too hard on the center of the metal file when doing this, or it will bend, and remove more material than desired. 

MH

I've got to try that - great idea....

- Lou

[coosvalley]

The extra ride height on MT cars is intentional, so you can hang christmas lights under the car.

The slinky effect is intentional as well. If you put "cat toy" bells on your cars you will get a nice" jingle jingle jingle" as the cars go around the tree.....
 
Sorry folks, I couldnt help myself, now back to the topic

With Atlas coming out with a much nicer PS-1, why worry about the MT car? Unless you already have a bunch........

[Brakie]

With Atlas coming out with a much nicer PS-1, why worry about the MT car? Unless you already have a bunch........
--------------------------
Maybe some of us old goats likes MT cars and besides that MT offers a lot of road names that Atlas may never do or it may be years between runs of the Atlas PS1..

[coosvalley]

I see your point, but if your going to lower a car, and then body mount, why not just paint /decal a more detailed and correct car?  I bet the cost would be similar, and I understand not everyone can paint/decal, but a 40' car is a great place to learn these things........just sayin....

An updated frame still will not put this car in the same league as the Atlas car, and the MT car wont get cheaper......

However I am biased, as I don't buy most MT cars anyway.........two words....ride height....

[Brakie]

I can paint and decal cars and that sounds like fun and it is fun seeing I done for years in HO.

I been thinking hard about changing eras to 1958 so I can have  steam.