SharkNose's 4' x 5' Table Top Layout

[SharkNose]

I'll try and catch everyone up to date with my first few posts...



January 22, 2012: I used 3rd PlanIt software to design and print my layout and pinned it to a 4' x 5' plywood piece (3/4 inch). I then poked holes fairly close together along the center line of where my track would be, transferring the design onto the plywood. Every curve is 11" radius with easements. The crossings are 15 degrees making 2 independent double loops. My dining room table has been out of service ever since. 

[SharkNose]

January 29, 2012: I sanded the plywood and the bottom of the Woodland Scenics foam roadbed for better adhesion. Using pins and foam tack glue, I positioned the roadbed along the center line of my track lines. I will use Atlas code 80 flex track, two 15 degree crossings and a few rerailer sections.

[SharkNose]

February 17, 2012: Track roadbed all down!  The big "X" in the center of my layout is where the legs of my Christmas tree will go. I live in an apartment, so space is pretty limited. The idea is to have the table about 1 foot off the floor and put the tree on it at Christmas. Positioning scenery and structures around the "X" will be a challenge. 

[SharkNose]

February 24, 2012: Inner loop of track laid. I placed some of my previously built structures around to help give it some scale. I chose to nail the track down instead of gluing it because, if needed, I can store the layout in one of my closets on its side. I took some time at this point to run some of my locomotives and rolling stock to see if my track work was any good. 

[SharkNose]

March 3, 2012: Still running trains and shaking down the track. It's been a while since I had any trains running, so I had some fun before starting on the outer loop of track.  To minimize problems, I only have rail joints on straight sections of track - none on the curves or easements. I left tiny gaps here and there for temperature/humidity expansion.

[SharkNose]

April 7, 2012: I finished laying the outer loop track AND completed my latest structure! 

[SharkNose]

May 4, 2012: Well, all caught up on the layout updates and I'm still just running trains on both loops. Next steps are to run power lines to both ends of the loops, fill in some missing ties at the joints and think about painting the ties and rails. I wasn't going to do that, but after seeing some of the results that other modelers accomplished, I think I will give it a try.

As I do more improvements on the layout, I'll post the work progress here. Comments, questions and suggestions are always welcome. 

[MichaelWinicki]

Next steps are to run power lines to both ends of the loops, fill in some missing ties at the joints and think about painting the ties and rails. I wasn't going to do that, but after seeing some of the results that other modelers accomplished, I think I will give it a try.

Painting the rails/ties is a very good thing.

The difference is stunning.

[davefoxx]

I'm a roundy-rounder, too, so I won't chastise you for that.  Not to mention, you stated that this is for under the Christmas tree, so, perhaps, some slack should be given there.  But, I must say, those track nails really bother me.  I would have recommended gluing the track down.  I also hope you don't run into a problem with the Woodland Scenics foam roadbed.  I've heard complaints about that product.

I would have also recommended a siding or two to allow you to switch out a car or two or even a passing siding for some ops potential, but if those are not your things, that's fine.  It's your layout, and you only need to satisfy yourself.  Remember Rule #1.

On a positive note, your track installation looks flawless, i.e., very smooth with no kinks, so your trains should run very well.  The decision to put no rail joints in the curves was a wise one, since you had the ability to do so.

DFF

[SharkNose]

Michael,

I’m looking forward to painting the ties and rails. And laying down ballast. That’s the only thing I don’t like about code 80 track. It looks too toy-like. I tried code 55 a few years ago. While it looked great, it had a few problems with some of my locos and rolling stock. The thought of changing dozens of wheel sets didn’t appeal to me, so I went with code 80 this time. I’ve run every piece of N-scale equipment that I own with no problems. Painting ties, rails and laying ballast is tedious, but as you say, it is a good thing.

Dave,

The track nails are rather prominent in that one photo above, aren’t they? I very much like the fact that if a section of track is a little off, just a little tap on the side of the nail or two can straighten it right out. Is there anything in particular I should know about Woodland Scenics foam roadbed? I did some research years ago and heard nothing against it.

To be honest Dave, I probably will get tired of just running trains in circles, but I wanted this to be a simple layout. My first attempt years ago was a pie-in-the-sky layout that I barely even started on. I bit off more than I could chew and felt overwhelmed at the work to be done and disillusioned with the little progress that I made. This way, with my little layout now, I can already say I’ve got all the track laid and can run trains. I can always put those sidings in later if I get too bored.

To my delight, the track work is performing great! I had some misgivings about using 11” radius curves and the 15 degree crossings, but every single piece of equipment that I own has run wonderfully on them. Even my GG-1 and Amtrak passenger cars! I read somewhere that if you take pains in installing your track, you usually won’t be diappointed.

Thanks for your comments.

Andrew

[GaryHinshaw]

This is a good start, and you're doing some very careful work there, which is already paying off. It's smart to start off with something you can make real progress on. If you do decide to upgrade, you'll have this experience to build on.

One thing that might enhance this plan is a crossover between the inner and outer loops.  It seems like there would be room for one or two (left-hand and/or right-hand).

Cheers,
Gary

[Bsklarski]

One thing that might enhance this plan is a crossover between the inner and outer loops.  It seems like there would be room for one or two (left-hand and/or right-hand).

Cheers,
Gary

+1

[SharkNose]

Gary, Bsklarski:

Well now, that's a thought too. I kept them isolated because I liked the thought of having two independent trains running at once either in the same or different directions. I bought two power packs for that purpose. This is strictly DC here and the crossover you mentioned would have to be insulated. I'll certainly keep it in mind for a future expansion project. 

Thanks for your comments.

[SharkNose]

Well, after some thought about your comments above on sidings/crossovers, I thought about how I could make minimal changes to the layout and accomplish those goals. While on vacation last week, I visited the Altoona Association of Model Railroaders (http://www.theaamr.org) while they had an operating session and it certainly looked like fun shuffling cars around to make a train. It would make more sense (at least for me) to make these small changes now instead of later and have to reposition structures and landscape.

Here's my thought: 1) Put a crossover/siding in the lower portion (that's where the operator will be) between the two loops, switchable power from either the inner or outer loop or completely off. 2) Put a siding up above on the inner loop where I'll be putting a lumber yard anyway, so it makes even more sense. This siding can be shut off power-wise too. See artist's rendering below: 

[wazzou]

I understood the suggestions were to be able to go form the inner set of loops to the outer and reverse, however you mentioned you wanted two train operation, using conventional DC and two power packs.  This solution wouldn't address those suggestions but it would provide someplace to store Locomotives or switch out cars.