E33, E44, EF-3 Electrics in FUD (Shapeways)

[Philip H]

looks like a good solution Eric.  Now get that sucker painted and running!

[eric220]

Still waiting on the Bestine.  FedEx says it's in Sacramento now, and it's due to arrive on Tuesday.

[bbussey]

I might have to think about a pair of Conrail E44 units down the line, after I finish all the New Haven electrics.

[Dave V]

I want to see it painted first before I bite.

The good news is that even if I stretch the beejeezus out of my era, at best you'll see a handful of Pennsy stuff up to about 1960/61 on my layout; still just shy of the E44.  This at leasts keeps me from the troubling prospect of the proper PENNSYLVANIA lettering on the E44; unique to the class and not "kitbashable" from any obvious decal sheets.  So my E44 requirements are from Conrail circa 1980; perhaps a black CR paint-out and a blue one.

I'm skeptical about the stepping and about the jumbo handrails.  Not sure any off-the-shelf etched side rails will work, and besides, you have those massive holes in the body to plug.

Good on you, Eric, for jumping in feet-first.

[eric220]

That's one of the nice things about an alternate history with lots of electrified territory, and a parent company that remained in good financial shape through the 1950's.  They would have needed, and been able to pay for, new electric freight power.  I'm supposing that the PRR paid GE to develop the E44 alongside the E33, meaning it would have been available in 1955.  A bit of a stretch for my time scale, but I like the locomotive too much to let it go.

[peteski]

Tried and failed.
The resin sucks. the shells are two feet thick and the underframe dosen't match the car, or fit. Awful. Awful. Awful.

A resounding +1!
I just can't believe that someone would spend time making a master which wouldn't be bad if another few hours were spend smoothing things down and making some details sharper and then proceed to make castings of that mediocre master!

I still have couple of these kits sitting unbuilt.    Looking at them over and over again made me contemplate designing a 3D model to have it "printed out". But I'm fairly new to 3D modeling and besides, time to spend on that project is hard to come by.  I also contemplated a photo etched model but again, no time to put another project on my plate.  I'm also lacking good drawings of those cars (which would be extremely helpful in designing the model.

[eagle5473]

Ok 1/2 way thru painting and this is what I got for the E33.  The shell has ;lots of detail, it does have the cake layer if you look for it up close I dont think it will be an issue running on a layout or under normal conditions.  the nose and tail had the layering the most pronounced, it has a slight angle to it.  I did take about 20min to sand down the ends and the flat spots I could get to with pout damaging detail.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/79615118@N07/7297761502/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/79615118@N07/7297762672/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/79615118@N07/7297762200/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/79615118@N07/7297761682/in/photostream/

Aaron

[Alwyn Cutmore]

A resounding +1!
I just can't believe that someone would spend time making a master which wouldn't be bad if another few hours were spend smoothing things down and making some details sharper and then proceed to make castings of that mediocre master!

Peteski,

The problems with RPM is the layering and unless the manufacturer is prepared to have the producers finish off the model and take out all the layering you will finish up with a poor model. If a model can be produced with flats only so that it can be later assembled for a pattern you can get away with it but as a one piece you are stymied. I find the master from Mark4 Design are a lot better that most. and because they are made from acrylic resin they can be glued to-gether with normal liquid cement.

I looked at the master on the chassis and it just appeared to sit to high.

Regards

Al

[Dave V]

Aaron,

That looks pretty good!  It certainly looks better than anything I could have cobbled from styrene (i.e., all lines are straight, all louvres lined up, curves are constant, etc.).  The stepping is obviously noticeable upon close inspection, but overall, it looks cleaner than I expected.

With etched handrails, fine scale pantographs, and other assorted details, I wouldn't kick it out of bed!

[peteski]

Peteski,

The problems with RPM is the layering and unless the manufacturer is prepared to have the producers finish off the model and take out all the layering you will finish up with a poor model. If a model can be produced with flats only so that it can be later assembled for a pattern you can get away with it but as a one piece you are stymied. I find the master from Mark4 Design are a lot better that most. and because they are made from acrylic resin they can be glued to-gether with normal liquid cement.

I looked at the master on the chassis and it just appeared to sit to high.

Regards

Al

Al, the model in question which Daniel mentioned (Bi-level Kawasaki car) was not made from RP master. It is quite crude and it looks hand-made.  I can see someone making RP master of that car then spend some time smoothing out the striations and doing some general cleanup of whatever needs to be cleaned up.  As usual, things got a bit OT here.

[Alwyn Cutmore]

Peteski,

I understand but also looking at that Shapeways model even though it looks fine if you look close you can see the layering and from what I have seen so far the body appears to be sitting way to high.  The body should be made as close as possible to real scale and plastic thickness and them cast. RPM is best used for pattern making and then cleaned up for more traditional casting. Lowers the price. They are not as brittle and the finish after pattern polishing is much better. If you want to see good casting made from RPM look at the items from Kalso Shops. Their stuff is brilliant and lacks the layering. Whether it is N Scale or HO the finish is great.

Regards

Al

[peteski]

Peteski,

I understand but also looking at that Shapeways model even though it looks fine if you look close you can see the layering and from what I have seen so far the body appears to be sitting way to high.  The body should be made as close as possible to real scale and plastic thickness and them cast. RPM is best used for pattern making and then cleaned up for more traditional casting. Lowers the price. They are not as brittle and the finish after pattern polishing is much better. If you want to see good casting made from RPM look at the items from Kalso Shops. Their stuff is brilliant and lacks the layering. Whether it is N Scale or HO the finish is great.

Regards

Al

That's basically what I said.  I just used "master" instead of "pattern". But I'm now confused. Are you telling me that there is an N scale Kawasaki car available for sale on the Shapeways website?

[Alwyn Cutmore]

Hi Peteski,

No mate just that there are better ways of getting a better pattern/master and getting a better end result through casting.

Regards

Al

[peteski]

Hi Peteski,

No mate just that there are better ways of getting a better pattern/master and getting a better end result through casting.

Regards

Al

We are in agreement then. 

[Sokramiketes]

Tried and failed.
The resin sucks. the shells are two feet thick and the underframe dosen't match the car, or fit. Awful. Awful. Awful.

They now say:

These models have been retooled, all new, thinner shells,
new chassis with stabilizers cast in place, new 2 piece metal trucks.
We now carry 33" NS flush axle,
weathered wheel sets by NWSL to go with these models, for your convenience