New Atlas N-Scale 4-4-0 confirmed

[DKS]

Peteski, are you mounting the decoder over the motor? I ask because I've been contemplating making a cast part that looks like a wood bunker with wood to cover the decoder.

[peteski]

Peteski, are you mounting the decoder over the motor? I ask because I've been contemplating making a cast part that looks like a wood bunker with wood to cover the decoder.

Nope.    A coal bunker would offer another alternative.

[Nato]

                 If Micro Ace can do a working headlight on their similar 2-6-0 that they did for Japan and Atlas,why not on the 4-4-0. Recieved my lokies,only complaint the cab on my painted Undec is not sitting quite level,don't know if I wish to attempt removal and reattachment.Santa Fe is sold out at alot of E & Retailers,probably the fancy paint similar to the Rio Grande on the 2-6-0 Mogul. I managed to locate one at Caboose Hobbies in Denver. Thanks Chuck at FRT for the other two. Nate Goodman (Nato).

[peteski]

Nate,
but Atlas 4-4-0 *DOES* have a working headlight!  However it is so dim that it is very hard to see. The design is not all that good.  It is actually illuminated by a pair (yes, a pair) of SMD 0603 warm-white LED.  They use a reverse-parallel connected pair of LEDs to make the headlight non-directional (always on). That also protects the LEDs against exceeding their reverse voltage. Then the entire headlight and its mounting stub/light-pipe is molded out of clear plastic which has a cavity molded where the lens will be. Then the entire clear assembly seems to be plated with a thin layer of metal. Probably vacuum metalized. This serves 2 purposes: it makes the assembly light-tight and it reflects lights inside the clear piece. Then the headlight is painted and decorated.  The plating/paint is not applied to the lens opening and to the end of the mounting tab. A clear lens is then glues in and the headlight mount is glued into a slot into the top of the smoke box.  The LEDs are inside that opening. Due to many factors (one of which is sloppy assembly) prevent much light from actually showing up at the headlight lens.

[rogergperkins]

Based on the Atlas diagrams of the tender, I do not see space for a DCC decoder.  What am I missing?
This looks as if the decoder would need to be in a head end car.

[DKS]

Atlas 4-4-0 *DOES* have a working headlight!  However it is so dim that it is very hard to see.

It's so dim I can't see it working at all.

Based on the Atlas diagrams of the tender, I do not see space for a DCC decoder.  What am I missing?
This looks as if the decoder would need to be in a head end car.

The decoder can be mounted directly over the motor and disguised as a (larger) fuel load, such as wood or coal.

[peteski]

Based on the Atlas diagrams of the tender, I do not see space for a DCC decoder.  What am I missing?
This looks as if the decoder would need to be in a head end car.

Like I said, I'm writing an article on how to install a DCC decoder in this model. I'm going to see if Model Railroader is interested in the article so I don't want to post the info on the forum first. I haven't actually installed the decoder yet but I had the model apart to see what is feasible.  I'm hoping to have enough time this week to complete the installation and the writeup.

[Mark W]

The decoder can be mounted directly over the motor and disguised as a (larger) fuel load, such as wood or coal.

Actually, it turns out the Z2 can be disguised as almost the same size load as the original plastic!


(Careful observers will notice the plastic 'topper' appears to be sitting high.  It is, but not because the decoder is in the way.  I'ts because I was an idiot and pried the topper off instead of reading the exploded diagram properly and seeing that it is screwed in from beneath.   )

I've never been a fan of super loading the tender to disguise a decoder, which is why I originally planned to mount the Z2 in the cab and dangle wires/hoses.  However after comparing the Z2 to the plastic, it was just about the same thickness, so I ran with it.

I also gotta say, DCC installation is INCREDIBLY easy!  (compared to how one might think for a 4-4-0 install).

Only the Orange and Grey wire are soldered to the motor leads.  Red and Black are stripped and wedged between the motor and frame weights.  Before you comment on wedging the wires, know that this is how the motor is wired by Atlas.   

[peteski]

Before you comment on wedging the wires, know that this is how the motor is wired by Atlas.   

I know, and I cringed when I saw that.   
I agree that the way Atlas designed this model makes DCC conversion quite easy.

[Mark W]

I also noticed, near the back screw hole, there's a tiny needle eye of a hole to the inside.  I took my red and black and looped it through this hole and twisted.  Something tells me Atlas knew EXACTLY what they were doing when they designed this! 

[nkalanaga]

On the dim headlight:  These would probably have been oil lamps, and not nearly as bright as today's electric bulbs.  Also, in the mid 1800s, many roads didn't use headlights during the day, so they didn't need to be visible except at night.

[peteski]

I also noticed, near the back screw hole, there's a tiny needle eye of a hole to the inside.  I took my red and black and looped it through this hole and twisted.  Something tells me Atlas knew EXACTLY what they were doing when they designed this! 

I agree about the purpose for those loops. But then Atlas changed their mind and just let the untwisted stranded wire motor leads be pinched under the weights.

Nkalanga:  We're not talking xenon headlights lights here. The headlight is so dim that it is barely visible, even in a dark environment.  Seems a bit dim, even for a candle.

[up1950s]

Don't we loose .7 volts per diode/LED/SMD . If you bypassed/bridged its + & -  of the reverse SMD maybe the forward light only would be brighter . That or figure out what and where is the dropping resistor value and parallel the same resistor value to double the SMD voltage . If a CLD was incorporated replace with a higher value ......... if you can find one .

[peteski]

Don't we loose .7 volts per diode/LED/SMD . If you bypassed/bridged its + & -  of the reverse SMD maybe the forward light only would be brighter . That or figure out what and where is the dropping resistor value and parallel the same resistor value to double the SMD voltage . If a CLD was incorporated replace with a higher value ......... if you can find one .

It is not the LED or the electronic circuit: The LEDs are plenty bright. It is the design of the headlight that doesn't allow much light to enter it.  On my model the headlight also wasn't glued in properly (it was too far forward) which allowed even less light to enter the headlight body.

[rogergperkins]

Peteski,
Would either of the n-scale magazines be a likely to publish your decoder article sooner?
Just a thought.