Seaboard Central 2.0

[C855B]

I keep a utility pump in the stash for stuff like that. Sort of a "sump-pump lite" that attaches to a hose for up-and-out. Put a deep pan under the crud spigot, set the pump in it, and there you go. As to code, no problem under the stairs given that it's electric, although I've run across some idiots guys who've installed a WH like that and then built permanent walls around them. (Gas water heaters are another story.) The primary consideration, and probably why they put it in the rough side of the basement, is the PTR valve downtube. It needs to be open to 6" above the floor and draining into a catch pan under the entire WH, with a fitting and tube on the pan pointed hopefully towards a floor drain. If no drain, then away from finished areas that could be damaged in the unlikely instance the PTR opens (saving your house in the process).

Anyway, long story, but if it's possible to move the WH out of the train room , your layout planning will be easier.

[wm3798]

Can you indicate which is the frame wall?  Provide a measurement on the door?  Indicate where you'd like the door for the future closet?

... and find a better place for that stupid water heater!!  It shouldn't be a big problem to move it into the new closet.

Lee

[Mike C]

  No need to solder , just use Sharkbite fittings .  We have them on our washer hook up lines . Think it took maint about 15 min to cut the lines , install the fittings and rehook the washer .

[Santa Fe Guy]

Man if I had that space beckoning for a layout that "stupid water heater" to quote Lee would be moved in a heart beat. Do It Dave LOL.
Rod.

[Chris333]

Besides putting it next to the furnace keeps it warmer 

[davefoxx]

@wm3798,

Here's the situation.  The upper left corner of my plan is shaded not because of an actual existing wall, but because of a closet I plan to build around the sewer line and water meter, allowing for swinging doors. Here's the current situation:



I figure a 24" deep closet will give access to the inside and that would even allow for the swing of a 24" wide door.  Why I drew that box as 48" deep.  I measured tonight, and I actually have 59"+ from the basement wall to the layout on that side for my existing aisle.  That's the sort of the space I would like to stay out of.  I was thinking that the closet around the water lines would only need to be 36" wide, and I could put a well-needed workbench next to it in that space between that corner and the entry door (where the shelves with the magazines are in the picture in the picture above).



Speaking of entry doors, here it is.  It's a nice 36" wide door, which is great for getting materials in the room.  There's 11" from the existing corner to the untrimmed doorjamb.  Don't forget (and it probably is not drawn correctly on my plan, now that I think about it), but lose approximately 6" for the new stud wall along that wall.



Oh, and for perspective, in my plan, the left, top, and right side need stud walls.  They're all currently concrete block walls.  Only the wall where the shelf and water heater reside are an interior 2" x 4" wall.  I allowed for these new walls in the plan.

DFF

[OldEastRR]

And so begins the story of Seaboard Central 3.0 .....

[davefoxx]

And so begins the story of Seaboard Central 3.0 .....

Haha!  That's actually the file name that I used for the room plan I put together this past weekend, which will eventually become a track plan.  I just haven't worked out my givens and druthers.

DFF

[M.C. Fujiwara]

Sea. 3 p.O?

 

Already been done:

[seusscaboose]

Punch through the wall
Go underneath the stairs
Go into next room
 

[davefoxx]

Sea. 3 p.O?

Too funny.

[davefoxx]

Punch through the wall
Go follow need stairs
Go into next room
 

No, no, and no.  I'll never finish a layout as it stands, let along a basement-filling monster.   

DFF

[John]

I started the M&O as a 2x4

is your basement heated?

[davefoxx]

I started the M&O as a 2x4

is your basement heated?

Yes.  I do run a dehumidifier in months when we're not using the heater, though.  My oil furnace keeps the basement humidity under control in the winter.  But, humidity aside, it is a dry basement.  Even when Hurricane Sandy dumped inches of rain on us, my basement stayed dry, despite no sump pump in the crock.

DFF

[davefoxx]

The Seaboard Central 2.0 is officially on hiatus.  I was just staring at it and the unfinished layout room last night, and I came this close to pulling out the tools to start disassembly.  I'm really, really tempted to reduce the layout back to the original HCD layout, which I can still operate during room construction (it's 99% ballasted already!).  This really was the original intent of the layout, but grandiose ideas of expansion got the best of me in 2014.

If I do this, even the original HCD layout will be disposed of eventually, because I'm going with an around-the-walls layout next time with larger radius curves and longer tangent sections of track.

My givens and druthers list is slowly forming:
1) I know I'll stay in N scale;
2) I will model the Seaboard System in 1983-86 (I haven't decided if I'll continue with the A&R); and
3) I'm considering the area between Richmond, Virginia (Acca) and points south into North Carolina (if I can figure out what gets modeled and what is staging).  I have fond memories of railfanning the RF&P's Bryan Park Terminal in Richmond, which also serviced SBD locomotives before returning them south.  The question is do I model the SBD's single track former-SAL line or the double track former-ACL line?

DFF