Seaboard Central 2.0

[basementcalling]

Dave, I vote no improvements, but it's not my basement or pipe.

If you were starting a new layout, or adding on to the SC2.0 I would say do it, but unless I am missing the conditions, your basement room doesn't look all that uncomfortable. Is it too cold? Dark? What's the problem with the space that makes you not want to spend time in the layout room? Or is the layout what's causing the waning working time?

If you put the effort into a stud wall the logical next step would be to start a new layout with it coming off the studs to be a more efficient use of the space.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Keep in mind the tax implications of making improvements.

Also, I think what you might need is just a good shot in the arm from some fellow asshats.

So... GET BACK TO WORK!

[mu26aeh]

I think the tax issue would be enough to get that thought out of my head, so get to moving freight again !

[davefoxx]

Can you move the pipe?

Moving that pipe is going to be difficult. It appears to be the main waste pipe for the house. Judging from the grout lines on the block wall, it already has minimum slope or close to it, so any move that lengthens the run will reduce the slope.

No can do on the drain pipe.  I am not touching that.  Here's another angle to give you an idea of that pipe.  It dives at the end into the exit from the house.  The water meter is located there, too, which I guess means our supply water and waste pipe enter/leave the house within just a few feet, if not inches from each other. 

Anyway, you don't necessarily have to completely build out those walls if you want to put drywall up covering the block. 2x4s on their sides on 16" centers with anchors and construction adhesive to the block should be sufficient for firring strips, and put 1-1/2" foam between and under a vapor barrier. That way you only lose 2" per wall. I'd box in a soffit around the pipe rather than fully frame a wall losing all that floor space.

Great information!  I'll take every inch of aisle space that I can get.  Currently, it's 25-3/4" from the fascia to the concrete block wall.  Tight.

Thanks,
DFF

[davefoxx]

So aside from feeling your pain, I have to ask - is it really the room condition that holds you up or has the HCD format finally hit the wall where your Druthers can no longer be accommodated by your Givens?

Philip,

The layout definitely has its flaws (what layout doesn't?), but I think I can live with it in the long term.  Sure, it's exciting to think about starting anew and learning from past mistakes, but, as I always say, this layout is already pushing the limits of what I will ever be able to finish.  I have no issues with the HCD construction.  Since I know how to cut them up without losing the structural integrity, I'm not limited to full HCD sizes as portions of the layout.

So, it's really the room condition, but that's compounded by the fact that aisle space will be very tight if I finish out the room.  That makes me want to reconsider a rearrangement to allow for better space around the layout, which then causes brainstorming that makes think about a larger Hamlet Yard on the layout.  For, example, if I were able to move the water heater to the other side of the wall from where it is located (which would put it out of the room and in a closet under the basements steps), I would love to use that wall for a larger yard, which would allow me to expand the main line a little bit.  But this quickly destroys a significant part of the existing layout.  Despite all of the pros of that plan, that's not really attractive to me right now.  Maybe.

Thanks,
Dave

[davefoxx]

Dave, if you want to practice your stud walls I have a basement you can practice on! Trying to figure it all out now for the BYR.


The S.

Timmah,

Just tell me the time, and I'll be there!  I enjoy framing, and I love the clean slate that you have.  Fun, fun!

Thanks,
DFF

[davefoxx]

One of my 3 1/2 year olds says your layout is "pretty fancy" and wants to know when we're coming to see it.

Told him the drive is pretty extensive.  LOL.

Haha!  Thank you very much!  If you do make a trip to Delaware, stop by!

DFF

[davefoxx]

Yeah, like mentioned above, a vapor barrier and 1x2 firring strips should be sufficient to attach drywall to.  Boxing the pipe looks like it can be done without encroaching into the needed space.

Agreed!  I would do the same for the steel I-beam running across the center of the room, to save on ceiling height, too.

Thanks,
DFF

[davefoxx]

Dave, I vote no improvements, but it's not my basement or pipe.

If you were starting a new layout, or adding on to the SC2.0 I would say do it, but unless I am missing the conditions, your basement room doesn't look all that uncomfortable. Is it too cold? Dark? What's the problem with the space that makes you not want to spend time in the layout room? Or is the layout what's causing the waning working time?

If you put the effort into a stud wall the logical next step would be to start a new layout with it coming off the studs to be a more efficient use of the space.

It's not uncomfortable at all.  While the space is unfinished, more than half of the basement is finished, including HVAC.  It's not hot or cold, but the clutter and concrete block walls really destroy the realism in my pictures.  I could just learn how to PhotoShop backgrounds into my pictures, but I really would like a clean and finished space for better presentation.  Not to mention a properly installed ceiling would allow me to address the hodgepodge of fluorescent lights in the room.

I can't disagree about a temptation to start a shelf layout that leaves the center of the room clear and allows for larger radius curves.

Thanks,
DFF

[davefoxx]

Keep in mind the tax implications of making improvements.

Also, I think what you might need is just a good shot in the arm from some fellow asshats.

So... GET BACK TO WORK!

I think the tax issue would be enough to get that thought out of my head, so get to moving freight again !

I'm not worried about the tax implications, but I appreciate the kick in the pants to get back to work.  But, what would this really add to the value of the house, i.e., increased tax assessment.  More than half of the basement is already finished, and this is only about 25-30% of the basement.

Thanks,
DFF

[seusscaboose]

 For, example, if I were able to move the water heater

Why is this an IF statement and not a WHEN statement?

Get a new and more efficient water heater. Save money. Use the space.

 

[davefoxx]

Why is this an IF statement and not a WHEN statement?

Get a new and more efficient water heater. Save money. Use the space.

 

I would, but that water heater was practically new when we bought the house.  It's still only about four years old.  If I could get up the courage to sweat my own copper joints, I'd do it myself, but that means I have to figure out how to drain it safely (there's no sump pump in our basement and the crock is full of gravel).  When I get around to replacing it, I want to go tankless, but they're expensive.  That would blow the hobby budget, and there's other issues with this house that would be a better use of that kind of money.

DFF

[mcjaco]

The concrete walls don't bother me.  The stud wall does.  I'd at least finish that off, paint it sky blue, and call it a day.

Maybe add more light fixtures, and not bother with the ceiling. 

[John]

The concrete walls don't bother me.  The stud wall does.  I'd at least finish that off, paint it sky blue, and call it a day.

Maybe add more light fixtures, and not bother with the ceiling.

I would agree .. put a good coat of sealer paint on the blocks, finish the stud wall and maybe do the ceiling ..   what is the temperature down there in the winter ..

[Mike C]

  I'd just put a new coat of paint on the block walls , and finish that one stud wall . In addition I'd paint the floor joists , would make a real difference in appeariance .