Seaboard Central 2.0

[davefoxx]

That's a great idea, DKS!  Wish I heard it before I glued the ties down.  To alleviate the problem on this trackwork, though, I intend to get in there and remove any excess solder from the PC board ties.  Hopefully, that will blend the PC board ties into the wood ties such that after paint there won't be a glaring difference.  This seemed to work on the turnout I built.

Thanks,
DFF

[GaryHinshaw]

Another option is straight wood ties and Pliobond.  If applied properly, this provides an amazingly tough bond that holds up over time.  I'm sure you'll have no trouble disguising your ties though.  Looking good!

[basementcalling]

Dave, I like it. Great way to expand skills on a small layout and improve the appearance.

I laid a code 40 spur on an NTrak module using wood ties and Walter's Goo. It was a short spur, but held up longer than the commercial flex track on the rest of the layout.

Can't wait to see it after you paint the rails and ties.

Would staggering the gaps make it look like tie damage from dragging equipment?

[davefoxx]

Another option is straight wood ties and Pliobond.  If applied properly, this provides an amazingly tough bond that holds up over time.  I'm sure you'll have no trouble disguising your ties though.  Looking good!

I was tempted to try this, because until Pliobond sets up over time, or you set it with the heat of a soldering iron, there is the opportunity to still make small adjustments.  I used Pliobond to secure the ties to the #6 turnout that I built, so I know I can use the adhesive without making too much of a mess.  But, I had the PC board ties, so I went that route.

Thanks,
DFF

[davefoxx]

Would staggering the gaps make it look like tie damage from dragging equipment?

Maybe, but the pre-gapped ties are too uniform.  If I were cutting my own gaps, which I had to do with the old PC board ties, I could move the gap around (and make it smaller!).  But, I think I can reasonably disguise the gaps, so that they won't be so obvious after paint.

Thanks,
DFF

[wazzou]

I'd just use some Bondo one part body filler.  It's easy to apply and sands well.  You'll never see the gaps.

[Rich_S]

Dave, Are you using the Fast Tracks Rail Roller for your curved sections of track? Also when you are handing laying  the rail, how many track gauges are you using? For filling the gaps, the old standby for me would have been Squadron Putty. Now I'm reading that a lot of people are using 3M Acrylic Blue Putty or Bondo Spot Glazing putty. From what I've read, both are available from local auto parts stores. You might want to experiment with a couple of different PC ties, to see what method would be better, just fill in the slot or cover the entire top of the tie with filler? There is nothing worse than filling in a crack in a model, sanding it down nice and smooth and then after you've painted the model you can see where the putty was applied 

   

[davefoxx]

Rich,

I didn't have much of a curve to bend, so I did that freehand with two Railcraft three point gauges.  Once I got moving down the line and was tacking both rails at each PC board tie, I really only needed one gauge to align the rails at the next tie.

I've got Squadron putty, so I'll try that.  I'll just try to fill the gaps to minimize their appearance.  It doesn't have to be perfect, like you would want on your models.  I just want to make the gaps less obvious.  They kill any realism.

DFF

[davefoxx]

The track is completed.  I will clean up the excess solder, attach feeders, and give it a quick shot of paint as soon as I can to really see how it looks.  I'm pleased so far:


Maybe it's me, but N scale trains look a little more massive on smaller rails:


DFF

[DKS]

Maybe it's me, but N scale trains look a little more massive on smaller rails...

It's not just you! Looks terrific.

[timgill]

Great work. You have inspired me to go Code 40 on a small 2x4 "racetrack" I'm building for display and break-in running.

Just one question; how are you joining pieces of rail together? I'm assuming you're not using rail joiners?

[Scottl]

It looks great, there is no question the code 40 rail is evident and worth the effort.  To think code 80 is twice the height!

[davefoxx]

Actually, I'm using ME Code 40 rail joiners, but I'm cutting them in half to make them a little less obvious.  If you like, I'll shoot a close-up shot, so you can see one.

DFF

[timgill]

Aha! No shot necessary.

Are you using the new PC ties from FastTracks that are the same thickness as the wood ties? One of the things that has always bugged me about using the PC ties for my turnouts is the fact that they are thinner than the wood ties, so they are always floating above the roadbed. Doesn't really show after careful ballasting, but something bugs me about not having the ties that the rail is soldered to fixed to the roadbed.

I know the new PC ties that they are making have corrected this, at least for the standard length ties. Their turnout length ties are still thinner than a regular tie.

[davefoxx]

It looks great, there is no question the code 40 rail is evident and worth the effort.  To think code 80 is twice the height!

Here's a comparison: