Author Topic: Seaboard Central 2.0  (Read 415224 times)

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davefoxx

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Re: Seaboard Central 2.0
« Reply #570 on: January 17, 2014, 06:06:56 PM »
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Yes, Bob's picture of that beautiful ACL E3 was at Union Station in D.C.  It usually resides at the North Carolina Transportation Museum in Spencer, N.C.  Unfortunately, I moved out of North Carolina before it moved in.  I did have the pleasure to go on board and sit in the engineer's seat of the Southern E8 #6900 at Spencer once, though.  It's another favorite of mine.

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davefoxx

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Re: Seaboard Central 2.0
« Reply #571 on: January 18, 2014, 03:40:56 PM »
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After three weeks of patient waiting, my Fast Tracks order finally came in the mail today.  I already had a tie jig, so after about thirty or forty-five minutes of loading the jig a couple of times, I laid down the ties in the A&R's locomotive facility.  I placed a PC board tie at every sixth tie to have something to solder the rails to.  As you may recall, this will get Code 40 rails.



I'm not so sure that I like Fast Tracks new PC board ties.  While they seem to be the same thickness as the wood ties (a big improvement over their previous PC board ties), those gaps to prevent electrical shorts are huge.  I'll have to decide if I can minimize the visual impact with paint and weathering, or if I will have to get in there with some putty before painting.  The rails may help camouflage some of that look.

Unfortunately, it is unlikely I will get more modeling time this weekend.  I'll be sure to keep you updated as this project progresses, though.  I'm looking forward to getting some rails down and hostling some motive power!

DFF

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DKS

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Re: Seaboard Central 2.0
« Reply #572 on: January 18, 2014, 04:04:06 PM »
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You could also carefully remove the section of copper between the two gaps with a sharp knife. It might help to minimize the "gappy" look.

Bsklarski

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Re: Seaboard Central 2.0
« Reply #573 on: January 18, 2014, 04:31:10 PM »
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Or a THIN layer of model putty spread along the tie, then finger dipped in rubbing alcohol and smooth it out, it looks like wood and you get the splits like a real tie.
Brian Sklarski
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davefoxx

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Re: Seaboard Central 2.0
« Reply #574 on: January 18, 2014, 06:06:46 PM »
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Brian, that's sort of what I had in mind.  I'll try that first.  If it doesn't work to my satisfaction, then I could probably still try DKS's suggestion.  Thanks, guys!

Well, a brief delay in planned events gave me a little more time in the train room this afternoon.  One track is installed and working.  I was able to hostle the B30-7s into the siding without any problem.  The turnout is working fine, too.  Please ignore the blue tape; that's my temporary "lazyman" track feeders.   :facepalm:

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Gotta go,
DFF

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DKS

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Re: Seaboard Central 2.0
« Reply #575 on: January 18, 2014, 06:23:12 PM »
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Awesome. Great seeing Code 40 like this.

Rich_S

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Re: Seaboard Central 2.0
« Reply #576 on: January 18, 2014, 07:10:37 PM »
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Please ignore the blue tape; that's my temporary "lazyman" track feeders.   :facepalm:

Dave, You could always solder the wires onto a couple of rail jointer's, then just slide the RJ's onto the ends of the rails. Oh well I guess the tape method works  :D  The code 40 looks great. I've never attempted hand laying track in "N" scale, so I have one question. What is the advantage of using PC boards and soldering the rails to the PC boards, versus spiking the rails to the ties?

 

Chris333

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Re: Seaboard Central 2.0
« Reply #577 on: January 18, 2014, 11:50:49 PM »
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Could just flip the pc ties over and make your own gaps That's what I did.

garethashenden

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Re: Seaboard Central 2.0
« Reply #578 on: January 19, 2014, 04:51:27 PM »
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Dave, You could always solder the wires onto a couple of rail jointer's, then just slide the RJ's onto the ends of the rails. Oh well I guess the tape method works  :D  The code 40 looks great. I've never attempted hand laying track in "N" scale, so I have one question. What is the advantage of using PC boards and soldering the rails to the PC boards, versus spiking the rails to the ties?

"Scale" spikes are unavailable. HO spikes can be used but they're rather large...

Rich_S

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Re: Seaboard Central 2.0
« Reply #579 on: January 19, 2014, 05:20:45 PM »
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"Scale" spikes are unavailable. HO spikes can be used but they're rather large...

Has anyone tried any of the Micro Engineering "Micro" spikes? It looks like they might be suited for "N" scale. 

timwatson

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Re: Seaboard Central 2.0
« Reply #580 on: January 19, 2014, 09:07:04 PM »
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I'm not sure if these are the "micro" spikes but I have used ME spikes to spike flex track. Pictured here 7th from the left is a black nail head. I cut the head down on an ME spike and drilled a hole on top of the old code 55 spike head.



It's tough to tell where the spikeheads are on code 55 but Atlas code 55 also has overly big spike heads. So it's using a disadvantage to your advantage. If you use ME code 40 or 55 then the ME spikes "stick out more".

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davefoxx

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Re: Seaboard Central 2.0
« Reply #581 on: January 19, 2014, 10:51:32 PM »
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Dave, You could always solder the wires onto a couple of rail jointer's, then just slide the RJ's onto the ends of the rails. Oh well I guess the tape method works  :D  The code 40 looks great. I've never attempted hand laying track in "N" scale, so I have one question. What is the advantage of using PC boards and soldering the rails to the PC boards, versus spiking the rails to the ties?

Rich,
I was in a hurry yesterday to get the car packed and get to the in-laws, so I didn't have time to fabricate some temporary feeders.  Hence, the taped version.   :facepalm:

As far as spiking versus soldering, here's my list of reasons why I personally prefer soldering over spiking:
1) N scale spikes would be almost invisible, so any spike is grossly oversize.  My biggest gripe with handlaid track is those guys who only spike every sixth tie.  It's distracting to my eye, and looks better with either all ties spiked or no spikes.  Again, N scale spikes would hardly be visible, so it doesn't bother me that they're missing;
2) Soldering allows me to finesse the rail into alignment and gauge.  If it's not in the exact position I need, a quick hit with the soldering iron, and I can reposition it.  I really can't do that with spikes as easily; and
3) Those N scale ties are tiny, and I can foresee a lot of split ties.  That is, the wood grain in the ties doesn't also scale down.  I suppose you could predrill the spike holes, but that adds more steps to the finished product.

Hope this helps,
DFF

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davefoxx

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Re: Seaboard Central 2.0
« Reply #582 on: January 19, 2014, 10:53:50 PM »
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Could just flip the pc ties over and make your own gaps That's what I did.

I was tempted to do that, but the foil on that side of a couple of ties acted like it was starting to come free when I cut the ties from the fret.  So, I used the gapped side and will probably putty the gaps, if it continues to bother me.

DFF

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davefoxx

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Re: Seaboard Central 2.0
« Reply #583 on: January 19, 2014, 10:58:36 PM »
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It's tough to tell where the spikeheads are on code 55 but Atlas code 55 also has overly big spike heads. So it's using a disadvantage to your advantage. If you use ME code 40 or 55 then the ME spikes "stick out more".

Tim,

I agree that those spikes will be practically invisible on Code 55 once you paint the track, but they'll definitely "stick out more" on handlaid Code 40 rail.

DFF

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DKS

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Re: Seaboard Central 2.0
« Reply #584 on: January 20, 2014, 08:14:09 AM »
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Another trick to consider for handlaid track is to randomize the locations of the PC board ties. Regular patterns are more easily discerned by the eye, so rather than place them every nth tie, use a random number between 3 and 8 (or whatever). Besides, for sidings and such, neatness doesn't necessarily count; this will be less-well-maintained track, and the ties won't be aligned and spaced with precision.