Seaboard Central 2.0

[davefoxx]

As reported on Weekend Update, I built the table this weekend for the Seaboard Central 2.0 HCD layout.



Nothing really earth-shattering here.  On my previous A&R HCD layout, I tried using 2" x 2" legs with diagonal bracing, like that you would see on L-girder benchwork.  But, the quality of the wood was so poor that it checked and split if I merely looked at it funny.  So, on this layout, I returned to the same construction method that I used on the Virginia Central.  That is, borrowing from the ideas of Marty McGuirk and the Carolina Central, I used banquet table legs again.  I extended the legs with 1" electrical conduit to raise the table height to approximately 50".  The railhead will be approximately 2" higher once I install 2" foam as a base.  I installed 1" wood dowels inside the bottom of the pieces of electrical conduit, so that I could put tee nuts and carriage bolts on the bottom of the legs for leveling.  Wing nuts will act as jam nuts to keep the carriage bolts from turning once I level the table.

I hope to get the 2" foam in the next few days.  Lowe's has 2" foam in a 4'x8' sheet... a first for me!  The good news is that I can glue a sheet on this table without a seam (the Virginia Central had to use 2" x 2' x 8' foam, and the seam caused a hump in the length of the table that required some serious carving to level the roadbed), but the bad news is getting that 4' x 8' sheet home in my car.  If I rough out the 36" x 80" size in the parking lot, I will be able to get it in my car.  I just don't know if Lowe's wants all of that foam dust and bits blowing around their property.

I'm going to experiment to see if I can cookie cutter the 2" foam just as you would plywood, to create the rising grade for the A&R portion of the layout.  I may have to go back to 1" foam to pull this off, but I would prefer to use one layer of 2" foam rather that two layers of 1" foam.  Based on my experience with the Virginia Central, I want approximately 2" of elevation separation between the railhead and the surface of the lake/river.

Until next time,
DFF

[Chris333]

Take a snap off blade knife. One slice, one snap. second slice, second snap. If you go deep on the first score there will be no real mess at all.

[davefoxx]

Take a snap off blade knife. One slice, one snap. second slice, second snap. If you go deep on the first score there will be no real mess at all.

Good idea!  Those knives are inexpensive, too.  If I make a deep cut from both sides, that should really minimize any mess.

Next shopping list: 1 sheet of 2" x 4' x 8' foam, paneling adhesive for foam, and a snap-off blade knife.

[wm3798]

Just use a serated steak knife.  Those snap off blades tend to , well,  snap off...

[packers#1]

DFF, I did the same thing, although instead of measuring I just sliced it...no real mess if you take your time to score the foam

[M.C. Fujiwara]

When I got my first sheet of 4'x8' pink stuff from Home Depot, I took a utility knife and a long T-square with me.
Carried the sheet to my car, placed it in the empty parking space next to it, and cut it into 4 2'x4' sections.
You just have to pull the (sharp!) knife slowly with some slight up & down motion, otherwise the foam bunches a bit.
But any scoring over an 1" and you can snap it off cleanly with no foam mess.

You can also take the foam over to the wood section and have them cut it with their table saw 

[davefoxx]

You can also take the foam over to the wood section and have them cut it with their table saw 

I actually considered this option yesterday when I was at Lowe's but had a second thought.  I can only imagine the looks on their faces when asked to cut foam with a table saw.

DFF

[Philip H]

Dave,
I cut foam in the HD parking lot all the time for both my personal projects, and some side carpentry I've done over the years.  No worries.  M.C. method works well - just use either a 4 foot drywall square or a yard stick and some tape for a guide.  And don't forget to measure twice, cut once.  And them put the remainder pieces in the car for scenery fillers.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Trust me, using one of those more heavy duty "break away" knives is perfect. The trick is to run the blade at an angle as you cut:

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A 4' steel ruler is a good guide too. If you don't have one, I highly recommend getting one. Mine has come in handy many times.

Also, keep in mind the type of joints at the end of the panel. If your Lowes is like mine, they'll have lap joints that are good for insulating, but end up giving you a bunch of styrofoam that isn't actually full depth. I ended up going to a specialized styrofoam place to get stuff that has butt joints: http://conrail1285.com/news.asp?storyid=71

[Chris333]

Also the 250 foam is more dense than the 150 and it's only like $3 more.

[davefoxx]

Just messing around with the plan and trying to add some room for expansion.  Note how the A&R (blue line) has been curved at the top right to head off for a future HCD that will be perpendicular to this door.  Less obvious is the new turnout on the SBD line (black line) at the top right that also would head off in the same direction but on a lower elevation.  The SBD mainline between the A&R overpass and the highway bridge in Aberdeen would be in a deep cut to disguise it (and the obvious roundy-round).



I ran off the table in this direction, because I would like to place the right end of the layout (i.e., table) against a wall.  An 18" or 24" HCD could be used as a shelf for the adjacent door.  Where the tracks would go from there is unknown at this point.  I'm comfortable with the A&R being a point-to-point and the extended track could represent the other end of the line in Fayetteville, NC.  It would be nice to add a larger roundy-round for the SBD line, but that would require another lead off of this plan.  I tinkered with the idea of putting a turnout in the curve on the right end of the layout and burrowing under the A&R branch with hidden trackage.  We'll see.

The newest problem is the shortage of Atlas code 55 right now.  All I really need for now, though, is one or two turnouts, which I could photocopy to lay out the planned track on the table top.  I may have to go outside the usual source and pay a little more.  But, again, I'm not loading up on track yet, so any price difference won't be that painful.

DFF

[davefoxx]

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions regarding the foam substrate.  Chris and Ed, however, get special kudos for their recommendations to buy a snap knife and a 4' straight edge.  Worked great, and as suggested by others, I cut it to size in the parking lot.  No problem, and as you can see below a good fit for the table.  I was able to purchase a 2" x 4' x 8' sheet of foam that had square edges.  No ship lap or tongue and groove edges.  This also allowed me to install a sheet without uneven seams.  Perfect!



I haven't glued the foam down yet, because I want to be able to remove the area where the lake/river will be.  I won't know the exact location of that area for certain until I draw the track plan on the layout.

Also, I built the shelf that hangs under the layout to hold the DCC system.  This is also how I housed the DCC system on previous HCD layouts. 



As you can see, I hung the shelf off of the 1" x 4"s that are used for mounting the table legs.  Works great for me; easy to get to the DCC system to turn it on and off, and it's out of the way and off of the table top.  I will eventually add Digitrax UP5 panels on each side of the layout in the fascia to connect the throttle(s).

Thanks again, all!
DFF

[Philip H]

Dave,
 put a furring strip or two across the back.  When your wee one gets mobile, it will save you a TON of heartache.  and a small lip in the front too . . .

[davefoxx]

Dave,
 put a furring strip or two across the back.  When your wee one gets mobile, it will save you a TON of heartache.  and a small lip in the front too . . .

Heh, I had the same thought.  I've got some scrap lumber in the garage that I plan to cut up to create a lip on the front and the back but still allow access when needed.  Thanks for the suggestion.

DFF

[Philip H]

four kids in, I nail one or to here and there . . .