Anyone using rolled cork sheet?

[wcfn100]

It's been a decade since my last layout and the internet has made a lot of things more accessible.  One of those things is cork.  I can get 4'x20'x3mm rolled cork for 1/2 the price of Midwest Products (haven't compared the shipping yet).

Granted I may not need 80sqft of cork in the near future, but has anyone tried this?


Jason

[SkipGear]

I'm working on an Ntrak yard module set that is done with rolled cork from Home Depot. It happened to come in 2'x4' rolls. Couldn't ask for anything simpler for Ntrak.

Two things we learned:

1. Buy extra, there are bound to be some blemishes that you can't work around.

2. Let it set in a warm, humid environment before you try to unroll it. It was a bear to get flat without breaking it. With enough glue and effort, it laid down flat and has stayed that way but it was a challenge at first.

[Chris333]

I bought a roll from the local craft shop and like Tony said it was hard to get flat. I used a bunch of pins around the edges to hold it while the glue dried.

[wcfn100]

I bought a roll from the local craft shop and like Tony said it was hard to get flat. I used a bunch of pins around the edges to hold it while the glue dried.

I'm pretty sure I can overcome that with contact cement and some heavy books, but that could factor in to trying to cut strips.

As for a warm, humid climate, I'd have to wait until August. 


Jason

[C855B]

Our club used this type of hardware-store-grade rolled gasket cork for our yard 20 years ago. We are shortly to scrap the entire yard and start over - the cork shrunk as it lost moisture over the years, and everything is now out of alignment. The Midwest cork is evidently from a different species, as it is finer-grained. All I can figure is it must have been selected because it is more stable.

I've also run into this problem with new-old-stock automotive gaskets of the same material - the old cork has shrunk, and the gasket no longer fits.

[Chris333]

I soaked mine in hot water and still had a tough time.

I currently have some Midwest 6" wide strips and had no problems at all with it.

[rogergperkins]

I have not been of fan of cork roadbed since I rebuilt one of my home layouts and discovered how dry, brittle and friable it had become.
Over the past five or so years I have been very pleased with a product initially labelled as Funky Foam; I found it at Hobby Lobby in 12" x 18" sheets in 3 micrometer thickness. Less than 1 USD per sheet.  I find it easy to cut either with a hobby knife or scissors.  It comes in various colors including black and is paintable with Polly S paints.
Because I use Kato Unitrack, I use this foam as a base for right of way side structures, for asphalt roads and parking lots. 
I also used it as a roadbed in a yard area where I had installed flex track.

[Sokramiketes]

I use the rolls for mainline track.  I haven't tried to use it for large areas so haven't had a problem with the curling.  Strips are no problem.

I actually prefer it to the Midwest N scale cork roadbed since I can cut it a little tighter to the tie width and leave a sharp 90* cut instead of the 45* midwest edge.  Ballast always rolls off that 45* edge for me.  For the minimal amount of extra ballast, I prefer a straight cut. 

[N_DaveS]

I picked up a couple of 2' x 4' rolls at Michael's and am using it for yard and industrial tracks. It's a bit thinner than the Midwest roadbed, which I'm using on the mains, so the main/siding height contrast is pretty good.

Before installing I unrolled it then "reverse rolled" it, then laid it out flat and weighted it down for a few days before measuring and cutting it to fit. I then used lots of books and pins to hold it in place while the glue dried. So far, so good.

[wazzou]

I use the rolls for mainline track.  I haven't tried to use it for large areas so haven't had a problem with the curling.  Strips are no problem.

I actually prefer it to the Midwest N scale cork roadbed since I can cut it a little tighter to the tie width and leave a sharp 90* cut instead of the 45* midwest edge.  Ballast always rolls off that 45* edge for me.  For the minimal amount of extra ballast, I prefer a straight cut.

Mike -

How do you address curved trackage when you cut the sheet cork? 

[wcfn100]

I actually prefer it to the Midwest N scale cork roadbed since I can cut it a little tighter to the tie width and leave a sharp 90* cut instead of the 45* midwest edge.  Ballast always rolls off that 45* edge for me.  For the minimal amount of extra ballast, I prefer a straight cut.

I'm looking at it for similar reasons.  I think the Midwest is too wide.

It looks like Lumber Liquidators has some 3mm underlayment in 2'x3' sheets that might be worth looking at.

On a side note Mike, how much do they they you for on that 5'x5' Baltic birch?  I think the only place I can get it here is a furniture building and custom hardwood place that's pretty expensive.  I had drawn my modulse at 62.6" but I can't get decent 1/2" ply to save my life.


Jason

[Sokramiketes]

Mike -

How do you address curved trackage when you cut the sheet cork?

The ~5/8" strips curve well.   No curved cuts needed.

[Sokramiketes]

I'm looking at it for similar reasons.  I think the Midwest is too wide.

It looks like Lumber Liquidators has some 3mm underlayment in 2'x3' sheets that might be worth looking at.

On a side note Mike, how much do they they you for on that 5'x5' Baltic birch?  I think the only place I can get it here is a furniture building and custom hardwood place that's pretty expensive.  I had drawn my modulse at 62.6" but I can't get decent 1/2" ply to save my life.


Jason

3/4" ~$45
1/4" ~$18
1/8" ~$9

If I remember correctly, and that was our last major purchase about three years ago.  A bare 5'x18" module ends up around $10 with hardware.

[MVW]

I picked up a couple rolls of cork at Michael's, and have been using it for the yard and passing tracks. Comes with a self-adhesive back, so all you have to do is peel the paper off and slap it down. I've had some down for close to two years now, and it's not given me any troubles.

It's pretty inexpensive, so when it comes to curves I simply put down a larger strip then I'll need and cut away the excess after the track is down. The adhesive back lets go of the foam easily enough, so there are no big gouges left behind. I just had to peel up a couple pieces I put down two years ago as I was reconfiguring some track, and no problems removing it.

Jim

[wcfn100]

I was able to pick up that box of 3mm cork at Lumber Liquidators.  150 sqft for under $40 with tax.

3/4" Baltic Birch is $72 here!  That's probably not going to fly, but that's a different thread.

Thanks, for the responses.

Jason