Ntrak specs, and the deliberate ignoring of them.

[Hiroe]

Over the weekend, I managed to work out a good set of legs for these. They're hinged folding style, can be adjusted for either 40" or 52" rail height ranges, and do not add significant weight to the module.

Some quick cellphone photos:



As they're set up now, they're limited to either of the two above heights. With a few more holes drilled, I can make them continually adjustable from 38" to 55".

[Hiroe]

In order to accommodate signaling and block detection without needing a detector on each module we run three wires per mainline.  One common, one detected power, and one non-detected power.

Ahh, now that's an excellent idea. Whose detectors are you using?

Add in a couple wire pairs for tortoise power, accessory power, and lighting power and we chose a 12-pin Molex connector.  Wiring is tucked flat under the modules with a female molex at both ends.  (no hanging wiring to catch)  ~1ft long jumper cables with male molex connectors are used to join the modules.  On the module itself the main bus is terminated through a cinch terminal strip. 

Is there a pinout diagram available for the molex connectors? I'll be using powerpoles, but it wouldn't hurt to prep up a set of adapter plugs (I've already got all the parts, as I use the 12-pin molex connectors for my super-junction set).

And electrified territory is a ways off for Modutrak since we haven't made it to the Twin Cities yet on our way west.  PRR electrified would cramp our style so you can keep that to yourself. 

What? What? But... Electrify All The Modules!

[Sokramiketes]

You could also slot the legs and eliminate the need for the leveling feet altogether:


We keep our legs separate though:


I'm planning on using Chubb detectors and have about 25 assembled so far.  Still deciding on signal drivers... want to use TracTronics but the company recently changed hands and is out of AutoBlock boards.  I might just etch my own from the MM articles. 

I'll find the pinout for the Molex.

[Specter3]

Mike

Is there a set of posts anywhere that detail out your leg construction method and how they attach? I am not a huge fan of the folding leg stuff as it is complex(when done well) and adds weight to a module. I think yours are slide in but am not sure. I saw the Franksville build thread and that was neat.

Thanks

Ryan

[Sokramiketes]

Mike

Is there a set of posts anywhere that detail out your leg construction method and how they attach? I am not a huge fan of the folding leg stuff as it is complex(when done well) and adds weight to a module. I think yours are slide in but am not sure. I saw the Franksville build thread and that was neat.

Thanks

Ryan

No, don't think the legs were covered anywhere.  Drawing is below. These are constructed with 1x2 and 2x2 Poplar with 1/8" Baltic Birch Plywood plates on each side. 

The idea is that they span the module joint.  Instead of connecting two legs across the width of the module, we connect "two" legs across the module joint, making our leg assemblies that much narrower/smaller.  The top members are flexible enough to allow a through bolt to provide clamping action across the module joint.  (we still use c-clamps at key locations, like corner modules, but with care in building modules these legs can save on the load of c-clamps that need to be hauled around - heavy!)

The plastic knob with threaded rod, and threaded t-nut is a recent improvement that allows one hand height adjustement. Before it had a through bolt and wing nut, but you needed two hands, and sometimes a wrench, to adjust. 

Height adjustment ranges from 50" to 56".

[Hiroe]

No, don't think the legs were covered anywhere.  Drawing is below. These are constructed with 1x2 and 2x2 Poplar with 1/8" Baltic Birch Plywood plates on each side. 

The idea is that they span the module joint.  Instead of connecting two legs across the width of the module, we connect "two" legs across the module joint, making our leg assemblies that much narrower/smaller.  The top members are flexible enough to allow a through bolt to provide clamping action across the module joint.  (we still use c-clamps at key locations, like corner modules, but with care in building modules these legs can save on the load of c-clamps that need to be hauled around - heavy!)

Wow, those are pretty slick. I bet it makes setting up the layout faster too; just hang each additional module onto the legs of the previous. Do you keep a few single-leg assemblies around for joining in modules that have enclosed legs?

[conrail98]

No, don't think the legs were covered anywhere.  Drawing is below. These are constructed with 1x2 and 2x2 Poplar with 1/8" Baltic Birch Plywood plates on each side. 

The idea is that they span the module joint.  Instead of connecting two legs across the width of the module, we connect "two" legs across the module joint, making our leg assemblies that much narrower/smaller.  The top members are flexible enough to allow a through bolt to provide clamping action across the module joint.  (we still use c-clamps at key locations, like corner modules, but with care in building modules these legs can save on the load of c-clamps that need to be hauled around - heavy!)

Does the bolt across the top act as a resting point for the modules or are there holes in the leg pocket you described in the video that these pass through?

Phil

[Sokramiketes]

Does the bolt across the top act as a resting point for the modules or are there holes in the leg pocket you described in the video that these pass through?

Phil

Neither.  The legs stop in the pockets when they hit the 1/4" plywood top.  IE: they bottom out.  The bolt is below the module frame by enough clearance to get your hands on it... and it brings the forks together to clamp the modules at the joint and lock in the leg via friction.

[Specter3]

Now that is sweet! How tight are the pockets on the tops of the legs? Precision measurements, or close enough and the clamping finishes the deal?

Thanks

Ryan

[Sokramiketes]

I don't know if this early photo helps or hurts, but the bolt is where the bar clamps are posed.  You can see the leg assemblies in the pockets across a module joint here. 

[Sokramiketes]

I guess I need to take a photo of just a leg.  Here's one sitting on a table with components...

[Sokramiketes]

Now that is sweet! How tight are the pockets on the tops of the legs? Precision measurements, or close enough and the clamping finishes the deal?

Thanks

Ryan

The pockets are built with clearance (~0.040" on all sides) to allow the legs to slide in without binding.  Now, with the legs spanning the joint, remember that the track alignment is now tied to the leg pocket location.  So some jigs are needed when securing the pockets, but there is enough give in the legs to allow precise final rail alignment during set up. 

We run rail right to the edge of the modules to avoid connecting track set up time. 

[conrail98]

Neither.  The legs stop in the pockets when they hit the 1/4" plywood top.  IE: they bottom out.  The bolt is below the module frame by enough clearance to get your hands on it... and it brings the forks together to clamp the modules at the joint and lock in the leg via friction.

Oh, I mistook the thing at the top of your leg diagram for a bolt of some kind instead of the clamp it's representing. Oops,

Phil

[Sokramiketes]

Oh, I mistook the thing at the top of your leg diagram for a bolt of some kind instead of the clamp it's representing. Oops,

Phil

I knew that pic was going to confuse things... The bolt is correct... clamp was a test.

[Specter3]

This is great. The bottom of the leg can be a recycled Ntrak leg.

Since I am the driving force on the oNetrak side I think I will build to your spec module wise and let the folks that follow build to this finer standard. I have some pre-existing modules that will be converted to this leg standard and the rest of my construction will be totally your way hardware wise. Once I show the quickness of the setup without module joiner tracks I think everyone will follow. That is half of our problem as a club of getting folks to help with setup. The leveling and clamping of modules is pretty quick. Its the two hours of cussing to get the joiner tracks down that everyone hates. Plus with most guys being of an older persuasion they all have to break out the magnifying specs to get it done. I cant wear those, they give me a crazy headache due to an old eye injury. 

Ryan